CNE

Did you run this on your SS? I'm curious as to what kind of numbers it produced at the track.

You don't need to change the timing chain, unless you have a lot of miles on it. I was told to use the LS2 timing chain, but I looked it up at work and it is the same part number as in our trucks. I am installing a comp cams camshaft in my truck with new springs and hardened pushrods. You can see the cam spec's in my signature. It will have a noticeable lope and power range is from 2500 up to about 6000, which is perfect. I have a Trailblazer converter that stalls around 2800 rpm. I went ahead and built my tranny because I am planning on NO2. I would suggest a minimum of a stall converter and shift kit. I think I spent about $400 on my tranny in parts, that included Transgo shift kit, clutches, servos, sunshell, filter and all. I did the work myself with the tranny guy from my dealership helping. OK he did all the tranny work. You can do a custom tune from Zippy, Nelson, PCM4LESS, etc. All of them have a good rep. on here. I chose to go with a local tuner that I can drive to. You can spend as much money as you want to spend, and some you don't. LOL! The converter and shift kit probably made the biggest difference in my truck. The headers helped too. All around fun factor will be the stall and shift kit.

Still have the springs? What's your lowest price?

PM sent. let me know if you didn't get it.

I talked to my local performance shop guy (the one who has been helping me so far and will do my tune if I ever get the stupid cam in), about these heads. The guy with the heads says the springs are GM "hot cam" springs. I asked the shop guy about them and he said if the work was good, they were definatley worth the money but those springs were basically LS2 springs and would not be strong enough for my cam. He told me to find out what size valves, intake port size, CC, etc. and let him know and he could tell me more. If I will have to replace the springs in these heads to use them, I don't think I will mess with them at all.

I already have a cam, the one SSThunder had. Comp Cams 222/224, 566/568, 112 LSA, and long tubes. I will install the cam with the heads if I buy them. These heads will bolt up with no problem right? as far as the stock intake and all? I have to decide on the heads, and get gaskets and headbolts, if I do the heads.

Not sure about the chamber size, but I did look at the engine specs for my 6.0 and the LS2 6.0. Bore and stroke is the same, the compression ratio on one was 10.8, the other was 10.9 I think, so assuming they were stock heads from an LS2, it should be pretty close to stock CR other than the decking and I don't know how much they were cut.

OK, update on the heads. They are LS2 6.0 heads, ported, polished, 3 angle valve job, decked, new performance springs, seals, oversized (not sure what size) titanium valves. He said he had all the paperwork from the machine shop, and will take $600. I'm kinda nervous about them but it sounds like a steal.

OK, hope this helps. First of all, if there is gas running out of the vent tube or canister, the canister has fuel in it and it shouldn't. This means it is saturated and needs to be replaced. There was a service bulletin back in 2004 for the P0446 that involved replacing the canister with a new design. The bulletin number is 03-06-04-037 and the canister part # is 15175906 and bracket # 15175907 is required to install. That is the first thing that needs to be done. Then there is a newer bulletin # 02-06-04-037B that addresses the cansiter vent valve being restricted, normally by dirt. I have replaced these before. What happens is it gets dirt in it and sticks open or closed. There is a kit in the bulletin, part # 19152345 which is a new valve and a remote filter assembly that is to eliminate dirt intrusion into the valve. This is the next thing that needs to be done. If they just replaced the vent valve with one just like what came off, it won't fix your problem. I would find out if they installed this kit or not. Hope this helps you out. Oh yeah, be prepared for attitude when you whip out some bulletin numbers and part numbers on them, we love it when a customer comes in and tells us what is wrong with their vehicle. LOL!!

I recently found out there is a handheld tuner available for the mustangs that can have 3 seperate tunes. One for everyday driving like 87 octane, then a performance 93 octane tune, then like a 150 shot Nitrous tune all on one handheld unit. So, you get to the track and wanna spray, you just load your N02 tune and go for it. Does anyone have this capability for GM? It's only like $400 for the 'stangs.

That's about where I was stock with a CAI, AWD on 20's. I have run a best of 9.18 in the 1/8th, and only one run in the 1/4 at 14.56, but my tranny isn't shifting right 2-3 I think due to the stock tune. I hope to have that corrected soon and my cam installed. 8's, here I come.

The advantage to manually shifting, is to be able to wind out the gears a little more. In my case, if I let it shift on it's own, it will go into 3rd a little before the 1/8th mark, slowing my time. If I hold it in 2nd through the 1/8th, it tach's out to about 6,000 and runs a faster time. Now a tune will correct that since you can set your shift points higher. If I leave it in D through the 1/4, it shifts too early and falls off after going into 3rd gear. I recently ran it in the 1/4 for the first time and tried to manually shift it. I guess, I have a tuning issue, but it won't shift into 3rd if done manually, or left in 3. If it is in D, it shifts fine, just a little too early. Once I get it tuned, it will shift wherever we set it. So, for a stock tune, it is advantageous to manually shift, in my opinion.

One way to tell, if you have a scanner, is to unplug the one you think it is, then look at the reading on the scanner, it should stay around 450mV unplugged. I don't know anything about imports, but there may be one 02 in the manifold, then another before the cat, and a 3rd after the cat. If that is the case, it would naturally be the 2nd in the exhaust.

I have a TB converter and it seems to do better stalling to around 1500-200 then launching. It will turn up to 2800 if I'm hard on the brakes, but it seems to load up.

So it's shifting too early 2-3, I wonder if the PCM is seeing the stall and thinking it is slipping. It should be holding though at that rpm.

Not sure, I think LQ9. I will find out more info.

I talked to a guy Friday with a set of 6.0 heads that have been reworked with titanium oversized valves, comp. springs, ported, etc. He said he would take $650 for them. The springs I have been looking at are around $300. Sounds like a good deal to me, any opinions? I figure I could go ahead and pull the heads while I'm doing the cam swap.

Oh yeah, there is no rev limiter, I floated the valves twice.

That's what I'm wondering, I'm still on the stock tune so I can't change the shift points. The 1-2 shift is fine, but 2-3 shifts too early if left in D, so I tried to manually shift it and it won't shift. It shifts fine if left in D, just too early, around 4800 rpm. The 1-2 is around 5800.

Well, the only problem I have with running it in drive, is it shifts too early. 1-2 shift is at about 5800 on it's own, 2-3 shift is about 4800. And it kinda fell off after the shift. That's why I tried to hold it out longer and manually shift it. I guess the tune will correct that, but it still should shift regardless of how you do it, right?

I ran the truck today for the first time in the 1/4, so I've never had to worry with a 2-3 shift at the track before today. The first run, I left it in D and let it shift by itself. Next I tried to leave it in second to hold out 3rd then shift manually. It wouldn't shift. Then I tried to leave it in 3, and it wouldn't shift. If it is in any other gear than D, it won't shift to 3rd until you let off the throttle. The 1-2 shift is on the money and firm. Is this a tuning issue? I am still on the stock tune for another few weeks until I get around to the cam install and tune. Mods are in sig. HELP!!!!

Well, I finally made the hour drive to the nearest 1/4 mile track today. I also ran my best 1/8th mile time today too. 60 ft. 2.02 1/8th. 9.27 @75.36 1/4 14.57 @91.69 Best 1/8th 60ft. 2.02 1/8th 9.18 @75.18 The quickest 1/8th run, my trans would not shift out of second gear so I had to let off before the 1/4 mark. So, anybody know why the tranny will shift if it is left in D, but will not shift 2-3 when left in 3, or manually shifted? Is it a tuning issue, since my tranny is built but I'm still running stock tune? Help!!!

I talked to a guy last night that says he has a set of 6.0 heads that have been reworked, titanium oversized valves, performance springs, all assembled ready to bolt on. He wants $650 for them. New springs are like $300, it sounds like a good deal to me. What do you think?

If you're taking it in for a front diff. noise, they aren't going to look for readiness codes and unless the PCM has a big decal on it from a vendor, they won't know it is any different. Here's what throws up red flags at the dealer, take it in with a rear end problem with a supercharger or nitrous in plain sight, or the thing is camming it's butt off. Complaining about a tranny slip and the tires are slick on the rear with rubber all in the fenderwells. Those are the kinds of things that get you rejected. Having a CAI, headers, exhaust, etc. is not going to cause them to refuse to work on your truck. If the things you have done has directly caused harm, they can refuse to cover it, but they have to prove it. I have a customer with a C6, she has headers, full exhaust, cam, Fast intake and TBody, tune, etc. She comes in all the time for regular service. Now if she had an engine failure, I guess they could refuse coverage due to the fact someone has been into the engine and done a cam swap, but for normal concerns, it's really not that big of an issue.

The best way to completely power down the system is to unhook both battery cables, then touch them together NOT CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY!!!!, just touch the pos and neg cables together after you unhook them and hold them there for 30 seconds or so. That is supposed to eliminate any leftover stored energy in the system.