CNE

I talked with Dave over at Yank this week. He highly recommended the Pro Truck 3200 for my combo. He said it would tow 9,000 lbs and still stall up under heavy load. I pull about 2,000lbs 2-3 times a week. And through the end of this month, you get a 36,00lb trans cooler free with purchase. I was looking at the Truck Thruster 3000 but it is not as heavy duty as the Pro Truck 3200. Price is $945 shipped, but that comes with the tranny cooler too so, I guess for a real performance converter, it ain't bad. I will order Monday. I'll let you guys know how it does. They claim about .5 second in the 1/4. As far as my tranny, a friend built it for me, all parts were about $400 not including the TB converter. That's a complete overhaul kit with HP clutches, billet servos, Kevlar 2-4 band, "Beast" shell, Transgo Shift kit. This combo is good for over 500 HP from what I was told.

I ran across a used Whipple Twin Screw polished kit today. It comes with all brackets, hardware, Volant CAI, etc. No manual or wiring diagram. I'm not sure about the mileage, the guy that has it took it off of a 03 Tahoe for a used car lot. The Tahoe had 100k on it but I don't know about the SC. Probably nowhere near that many miles. Any opinions? He wanted $900, I offered him $500. He said he would take $750. Are these any good?

I see you are still going strong, I haven't seen you around in a while. I still haven't bit the N02 bullet yet but I want to. My goal was to see 13's first, then spray. I just did a cam and tune but I don't think I have enough converter for the cam. I am ordering a Yank Pro Truck 3200 this week. Til the end of this month, you get a 36,000 lb trans cooler free with purchase of the converter. Right now, I am about the same ET as before the cam and tune (go figure). It is slower out of the hole but picks up down the track. That is a stall issue I'm sure. It pulls hard 3500 rpm up. So out with the TB converter and in with the real thing. The TB does OK, but not good enough for my combo. I saw a guy Sunday running a RCSB Sierra 5.3 with shorties, CAI, tune and 100 shot Zex kit running 13.50's with street tires easing it off the line. You drop almost 2 seconds on the bottle right? If I can see about a 13.80 or so, then spray, I should be easy in the 12's.

As much as I hate to admit it, I bought mine at Autozone. I can't remember the cost but it was cheap. No problems though. Simple install, 2 bolts and some coolant and you're good to go.

I'm sorry, I was slightly wrong on the torque. Here is the tightening sequence as outlined in GM Service Information. Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - Installation Pass - to Ensure the Balancer is Completely Installed 330 N·m 240 lb ft Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - First Pass - Install a NEW Bolt After the Installation Pass and Tighten as Described in the First and Final Passes 50 N·m 37 lb ft Crankshaft Balancer Bolt - Final Pass 140 degrees I was pretty close though 37 lb ft then 140 degrees

I will probably sell it, I just need to get my new one first. I'll repost when I get it out.

I am currently running a TB converter with a Comp 224/224 581/581 114 and I need more stall. The power range on this cam was rated between 2500-6500. It pulls hard from 3500 up but is no quicker off the line than the stock cam and tune. I am thinking of going with a Yank 3000. My TBTC will stall about 2500 easily and 2800 if I am hard on the brakes. It is for an '06. Just thought I'd share that info with you.

I am thinking about going with a 3000 Yank. I have a 2006 Trailblazer converter with less than 5,000 miles on it. It works fine with no problems. It stalls to 2500 easily and up to about 2800 rpm if I am hard on the brakes. I just think I can get more out of a higher stall and by going with a performance converter instead of a stocker. I'm not 100% sure I will pull it out, but pretty sure. Not sure how much yet.

As cheap as they are, why would you reuse them? Heck the water pump gasket are bad for leaking without touching them. I see at least 2 a month come in leaking at the factory gaskets. Just my .02

I don't know about any of you guys, but mine came factory with 4.10's front and rear.

Junk guy around here pays $40 each for the cats. You can't give the stock manifold away. I kept mine in case I decide to got back stock to sell or trade.

I'll try to help you out. I work at a dealer. I'll see what my cost is ( I think about $3, I just bought one for my cam swap) and I'll check on shipping. Call me Monday ( I have a terrible memory) between 8-5 eastern time. Mack 919-262-6091

Why not the keys?

I ran a dual 2 1/4 in, single 3 out Magnaflow for a while but it was too loud with me not having cats. I went to a dual 2 1/4 single 3 out Flowmaster 70 series 3 chamber and it sounds really good but it slowed it down. I think I'm going to install some cutouts for running at the track. A guy I know bought the Magnaflow from me and installed on his Tahoe with cats, and it is completely differnt sounding. Not much at idle and a good rumble at throttle. If it had sounded like that on mine, I would have left it. I thought about dual magnas, or Flowies, but I like the side exit and couldn't find any tips that I liked to use a dual side exit.

NO thanks, I'd rather not destroy my transfer case.

I am going to use the Thunder Racing Timing Controller when I install mine. It lets you run a regular performane tune in your PCM for everyday driving, then the controller pulls the timing back to whatever you set it to when the NOS kicks in. You won't need to change anything in your tune. Timing needs to come back about 2 degrees for every 50 HP shot from what I was told. 125 = 5 degrees timing retard. That may just be because of my tune, I don't know. It's what my tuner said. I am running a 93 octane tune. He also suggested a Walbro pump and possibly bigger injectors to be safe. He said I was my injectors are running at 90% already. I am going to use remote fuel and NOS gauges, automatic bottle heater, remote opener, and maybe a plate behind the TB, I'm not sure about that yet.

212-218/558-563 @115, I might be wrong, but I don't think that cam is going to give you very much lope if that's what you're looking for. I used a 224/581 w/114 lsa and I could live with a little more lope. It lopes good on cold start but smoothes out a lot at operating temp. It is still noticeable. It will idle rough when you first do it until tuned. The first sound is not what you will have when tuned. Mine hit hard until I had it tuned. It also stalled at stops unless I held my foot on the gas. Now that ist's tuned, the driveability is great, no idle issues at all. What are you doing about tuning?

No local 4wd dyno. Closest is an hour away. I will probably make a trip soon. I may wait until I get my NOS so I can make some with and without runs. I know it's at least 400 from the engine but not sure what is actually getting to the ground. Maybe 350 or so. I'm not sure how much the drivetrain robs. I figure 345 stock, CAI maybe 5 at the most, cam and tune 30-40, headers and exhaust maybe 10. I don't know what the mods may give it to be honest.

Well, it wasn't really a SS meet. I was just going to do some racin' and happen to have some guys I know with "ricers". I got respect for anything that turns 11 second quarters, import or not. I know I ain't doin that good. Anyway, I was just letting anyone interested know that we were going. But, now it looks like rain for Sunday anyway. I would be up for an all SS meet though if y'all would like to get something together.

I was told on mine to let the engine warm up good before driving. Stiff springs are more brittle than stockers and if revved cold, can break. I was also told not to rev it much the first drive, let them heat up and cool back down.

Crankshaft bolt, not camshaft bolt. It's the bolt that holds the balancer on. It's a torque-to-yeild bolt meaning it is designed to stretch, therefore it should not be reused. You do not have to drop the oil pan, there are 2 bolts in the front of the pan that screw into the front cover, you will have to remove these. Now, if you're replacing the timing chain, gears, or oil pump, you will need to remove the pan. Unless you have some wicked crazy lift, you won't have to worry about the valves hitting the pistons. What cam are you using? I just noticed you were doing a head swap, so you won't have to worry about lifter tools. You will need headbolts, they too are not reuseable.

Bump

It was free so I can't complain too much. It does what I was told it would do. I get a flash up to about 2600, I can brake torque it to about 2800. It does fine though. I can't and won't go into details yet about the first cam I installed. I'll just it wasn't what I was looking for. On a lighter note, I love the one in it now.

It means you will not be able to slide the cam all the way out without removing the radiator. You can leave the AC condenser in but the radiator has to come out.

NOS is in the "to do" list. I wish I had it already. Previous best 1/8th was 9.07 with 1.98 60 ft. The only 1/4 run I made was a 14.56 but I had some tranny shift issues.