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You can get the old design under the OBX name for $500. I have them and other than having to route the two left rear wires around the header tube, I have had no problems. They are stainless though, not coated. They are direct bolt-in long tubes with cats, although they ain't really cats.

I have a TBTC and I can turn it to about 2800 if I stand on the brakes. It launches better around 1500 though. If I torque it hard the 60 ft is worse. I bought a Yank 3200 and plan to install tomorrow. Dave at Yank talked me out of the Truck Thruster3000 which is what I was looking at. He said the Pro Truck 3200 was a much better converter, and they were on sale at the time. My best run was a 14.25 with a 2.13 60 ft. Before the cam and tune, I ran a 14.56 with a 2.00 60 ft. My best 1/8th run before the cam and tune was a 9.07 with a 1.98 60 ft. I am looking forward the getting the converter in and seeing what it does after that. I'm ready for the N02 but I said I wouldn't spray it until it ran some 13's in the 1/4 and 8's in the 1/8th.

Do the cam last if you are working on a budget. You can do everything else you listed (converter, shift kit, headers, etc. on a stock tune temporarily, but you will need to tune after the cam due to driveability issues. I did the same stuff with the cam and tune being last. The biggest gain for the money will be the shift kit and converter.

You need to be ready to tune. It will not be very happy at first. Mine would stall at stops but ran fine on the road. It will sound wicked without the tune though. Don't expect it to idle the same after the tune. You should be fine to drive to the tuner, just be prepared to have stalling issues at stops. As far as springs, I would go with the 918's. I was told the LS6 springs were not quite stiff enough for my lift. You will also pick up some valvetrain noise with the cam and springs. It sounds like a sewing machine under the hood.

The resaon people like the TBTC is that they are cheap compared to a real performance converter. $200-300 versus $600-1,000. As far as the cam question, I run a 224/581 @114, the higher the lift and lower the lsa, the more lope you will have. Lope doesn't always translate into speed though. Mine has a noticeable lope, I could personally deal with a little more. Generally (I think I'm right) the more lift/lope you have, the higher the power range is going to be. Mine pulls hard from 3500 up. I was pulling 1.98-2.00 60 ft times before the cam and tune, now it's like 2.13-2.15 60 ft times, but my mph is higher than before. That tells me I am faster once I get moving but slower out of the hole. Therefore, I stated that I overcammed my converter. I have a 3200 Yank waiting to be installed. That should haelp a lot out of the hole. If you are planning on running that cam, a TBTC might not be the right choice for you. It will definately help versus a stocker, but if you are looking for all you can get, you will need to fork over some real cash. My Yank Pro Truck 3200 was $945 shipped and I caught a sale in April that included a free 36,000 lb cooler. Of course, I'm still waiting on the cooler to get here.

I ain't knocking Zippy, 'cause he seems pretty dang smart and has been around for awhile, but I work at the dealer and have never seen an intake replaced on one of these trucks, but I have probably replaced 30 sets of gaskets. Usually it is the 5.3 Z VIN that has the vacuum leaks though. It may be the intake, but I would try gaskets first. It won't take 30-45 minutes to put them on.

White 4-door set sold. I now have some Charcoal ones for a 4-door. One very small nick on the driver's handle. $75 shipped.

Have you tried new intake gaskets? They are bad for leaking causing a vacuum leak. This can be identified by spraying carb cleaner around the base of the manifold while running when cold. If the miss goes away, it's a leak. More likely the gaskets than the intake.

Going from 4.10's to 4.56's make enough difference to be worth the trouble?

It's the belt, mine does it and it scared the crap out of me at first. I thought it sounded like fluid forced through an orifice at high pressure and thought maybe something with the tranny build was wrong. The engine goes from 6,100 rpm back to 3,200 or so, so freaking fast with the shift kit the belt can't make that speed change fast enough and it chirps. That's my theory anyway.

Oh, I can't wait to spray. Still aiming for my goal of 13's on motor first though. I got my Yank 3200 this week but it's not in yet.

Before the cam and on stock tune, it was having 1.98-2.00's. Now with the cam and tune, it's more like 2.13-2.15's. I just got my Yank today, still waiting on the cooler before I install it though.

Inspect the o-ring on the pickup tube very carefully if you haven't already replaced it. They can tear or crack causing no pressure. I have had a Corvette do this. I also had a 2007 Tahoe with 300 miles on it that the pressure relief valve in the oil pump stuck open but you ruled that out with the new pump. Good luck.

Basically the PCM is looking to make sure the engine is reaching operating temp. In this case 195 degrees. If it routinely sees it only reaching 160-180, it can set a code (P0128) I think it is. If the tune is set to run with a 160, you have no worries. I have the 160 and mine still runs 180-190 and above at extended idle which is what you are going to be doing during an inspection anyway.

There is a tool made to press the pulley back on. It can be made easily. You take a bolt the same size but longer, screw on an extra nut, slip on a beefy washer that will cover the hole in the center of the balancer, screw the bolt into the crank with the balancer started on the crank, then start turning the nut while holding the bolt head using the nut to press the balancer on. This way, you don't have to worry about the longer bolt bottoming out in the crank or damaging the threads because you use the nut to press it on so there is no turning pressure on the crank tthreads. GM supplies a tool to those of us at the dealer but this is easily made. You also use the old bolt to torque it first, then retorque with the new bolt.

Mine leaps forward when it shifts and shifts hard. Even at like 1/4 throttle it shifts hard. But at very light throttle, it just bumps a little. What gets on my nerves is the TAC being so sensitive whe it shifts at lighter throttle your foot lifts a little and it makes it sound like you are letting off and getting back on the gas.

I have had similar problems. Mine slowed down with a cam swap and tune over the stock tune and stock cam. I overcammed my converter. It pulls like crazy above 3500. You talk about crying, spend $1300 and don't get any faster. Anyway, I am waiting on my Yank Pro Truck 3200 to get here. That should do it. Best times with all mods except cam and running on stock tune: 60 ft. 1.98 1/8th 9.07 1/4 14.56 Best times with new cam and custom tune: 60 ft. 2.13 1/8th 9.08 1/4 14.25 Now I have picked up 2 mph in the 1/8th and almost 4 in the 1/4 so I know it comes alive on the other end of the run. I just need to get it out of the hole better. I am running no TM out of the hole and just a little during shifts. I'll post new numbers when the Yank goes in, hopefully in a couple of weeks.

The AWD really doesn't apply much torque to the front on a regular basis. If you notice on turns it is nothing like turning a true 4wd when it is locked in 4wd. Even with selectable, you are still turning the insides of the transfer case and the front diff. Now if you removed the transfer case and front diff. and converted to 2wd, you would see a difference.

I have a TBTC with less than 5,000 miles on it. I overcammed it though. I need more stall with my cam. My 60 ft dropped but my MPH increased since the cam swap. I ordered a Yank Pro Truck 3200 ($945 shipped) it is due to be shipped Monday (they are running behind, I ordered it 2 weeks ago). Dave at Yank said I could tow 9,000 lbs with it with no problems. It is coming with a 36,000 lb Tru Cool tranny cooler (Free for the month of April) Anyway, back to the TBTC, it does fine, it did better before the cam. I tow about 2,000 lbs with it weekly with just the factory cooler and it doesn't get too hot but I would suggest a larger cooler be added. I will be selling the TBTC as soon as it comes out. Probably around $250 shipped.

OK, here's an update of what I have. These are for 2007 new body style Trucks, Tahoes, Sub's. Outside factory painted door handles. They are new take-offs. 1 set of white four door (will fit truck, Tahoe, or Sub.) $80 shipped 1 set of white 2 door $50 shipped 1 set of black 2 door unpainted textured finish $30 shipped New they are $35 each handle plus paint charges. I will keep updated with new colors as I get them.

I have OBX headers which are the same as the older DT's. I zip tied the two rear wires to their individual coil bracket. It holds them closer to the head for clearance. It's been about 5,000 miles with no problems.

Do the mods first, then tune. You will be able to tow fine with what you are doing. Look at my signature and mods, I tow about 2,000 lbs with my truck 3-4 times a week. I am installing a Yank torque converter with a 3200 stall in a couple of weeks and was told by Dave at Yank I could tow 9,000 lbs with it. You'll be fine.

I have all four outside door handles in Summit White, and Red, for a 2007 crew cab Silverado. Anybody interested? New take-offs.

What the heck is a Halo spark plug? Is it another stab at multiple electrodes or some crap like that. If so, let me tell you, they are a waste of money. At one time there was a plug out with 4 tips for the spark to jump to. What horse crap. Here is a little lesson in electricity. Spark will take the least resistant path to ground. What that means is, out of the 4 tips for the spark to jump to, it's only going to jump to one of them, not all of them at once. So, buy a good set of AC Delco plugs, or some NGK's if you're running N02, and run them. You'll be fine.

Not true!! I work at the dealer. There is no requirement that you use only their fluid. In the fluid recomendations, it says, use PN ********** or equivalent. I put synthetic fluids in my truck from end to end. I used BG products which most dealers carry. They have a full line of lubricants from engine oils, to penetrating oils. It's all good stuff. They even have the limited slip additives. As long as it is a quality name brand product that is recomended for use in that vehicle, it will not void any warranties.