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Joe Roknic

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Pushrods are coming in at .100" longer than normal?

 

the decks are taller on the TFS heads so we would need a .100 longer pushrod pending the base circle of the cam and how much preload i want. If i can get a pushrod in .025 incriments for the preload i want, thats what i'll do. i think stock preload is around .060, so just by reducing preload to .035 i can shorten the push rod by .025.

Edited by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history)
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You only have a few hours left and then some tuning. You can get it done tonight :smash:

 

 

Have to order pushrods yet. Not gonna work on it again untill next week Saturday...should be pretty close then. Looks like you have alot of goodies going in your truck also......what kinda goals you shooting for?

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Have to order pushrods yet. Not gonna work on it again untill next week Saturday...should be pretty close then. Looks like you have alot of goodies going in your truck also......what kinda goals you shooting for?

 

Goals: get it running and fix all the other shit wrong with it. Looking for between 500-600 on spray. :fingersx:

 

How bout you?

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exciting. I am glad guys are still modding these old girls!

 

How can you change the pre-load on the lifter/push rod? I thought the lifters took care of the slack once they get pumped up.

 

Joe,

The preload on the lifter can be changed a couple of ways on a nonadjustable rocker arm. The pushrod length is the big one, but the yella terra also provide .050 shims that you can choose to put under the pedestals. Because they go under the pedestals(more in the center of the arm) and the push rod is at the end, the .050 shim does not come out to exacter .050 in pushrod length so the shims help bridge the gap between the standard .050 increments in push rods. So with that said, if you would put a 7.500 push rod in with no shim you would have MORE lifter preload then a 7.450 with no shim. all my research has lead me to using less preload to make more HP, however i have yet to understand why less preload makes more HP. To measure this i put a mag base on the engine block and a dial indicator on the top of the rocker arm right over the pushrod and the dial indicators travel has to be in line with the push rods travel. i use my feel to get close to zero preload, and then set the indicator. As you tighten the screw you will see the dial indicator move at a certain point, that exact point is zero lash. Once you zero the indicator out, now you can tighten the screw until it bottoms out and the dial will show "preload". i use a 12" caliper to set my adjustable push rod to what i feel is correct push rod size and i go through this test with and with out shims. If i don't get my preload i want with either, i set the push rod to a new length. If you go through this, remember standard push rods come in .050 lengths so setting the adjustable push rod at 7.485 will not help, 7.450 and 7.5 are your choices. However if you want to order custom push rods then .025 increments can be used.

 

hope that explains more then you wanted.

 

 

 

 

for this set up i'm going to use a 7.450 push rod to get .040 preload with no shims. This of coarse will change motor to motor based on your deck heights, rocker arms, cam base circle, and what the lifter company requests for preload. As said before these are CTS-VR lifters.

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Goals: get it running and fix all the other shit wrong with it. Looking for between 500-600 on spray. :fingersx:

 

How bout you?

 

 

is that wheel or crank? what shot are you going to use and what intake and delivery, like direct port, 78 or 90mm plate, rails in a carb intake, nozzel in the intake tube? I'm doing a bunch of nitrous research my self right now.

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is that wheel or crank? what shot are you going to use and what intake and delivery, like direct port, 78 or 90mm plate, rails in a carb intake, nozzel in the intake tube? I'm doing a bunch of nitrous research my self right now.

 

Wheels. I plan on fabbing up my own 92mm intake with a direct port setup. For a shot, it depends if I can get 60#ers and get the forged rods or not. But I would really want to swap the cam again later on for a custom nitrous grind, and run a dual stage 200 shot.

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Wheels. I plan on fabbing up my own 92mm intake with a direct port setup. For a shot, it depends if I can get 60#ers and get the forged rods or not. But I would really want to swap the cam again later on for a custom nitrous grind, and run a dual stage 200 shot.

 

 

not sure what your other mods are, but you should have NO problem getting 500 RWHP on a 100 shot with a decent na build, little bit harder to get 600 rwhp on a 100 shot but that 200 shot would do it if she stays together. depending on mods with a fast 92 500 NA RWHP is doable. as far as rods, i'm not sure if you need it for a decent na build with a 200 shot? I would think the rods and crank would hold 600 rwhp, maybe even the rod bolts as long as the rpm is reasonable, but the pistons might not like it. but then again 600 rwhp is around 780 at the crank. also, maybe you can save some money and run a single stage 200 with a multi point ramp controller. Just set up a single stage, no problem for a 200 shot direct port, and set up a custom ramp rate that would run like a 2 stage, should be much cheaper. Depending on NA HP, you might need the progressive ramp for even a 100 shot, so you'd be buying it anyway.

Edited by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history)
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Goals: get it running and fix all the other shit wrong with it. Looking for between 500-600 on spray. :fingersx:

 

How bout you?

 

 

Hoping to get a 12.9 1/4 mile time. Eventually gonna build a 408 and cram 15 pounds down it's throat

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You cant get in the 12's. i am not ready to start dumping my in the new ride yet.

 

how ya gonna beat me? :jester:

 

can't wait to see ya again next Saturday Mike, hope all has been well. oh crap..i'm sorry... Can't wait to see you again DRILL...SERG..EANT!

Edited by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history)
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