Merc Dr.

P-up a Truckin' magazine. There is an add in there for a place that has like 20different styles.

If you're dseperate, cut out the muffler and weld a straight pipe in. But you cn get a muffler for $40 that would be better.

Will this work? You can just roll it up in the cab.

Are you sure? I thought on these they had removeable reatiners(oval port looking things) that you can just take out and either use a blow gun in the spark plug hole, or use a magnet.

How does it work? I assume there is a car show at every stop. Or is that just on the weekend stops?Does everyone jump in their car after the show and drive to the next stop? I might do the first weekend or a little more. I just don't want to sit around at car shows 7 days in a row if that's all it is.

I've got a Corsa with an electric cutout in front of the muffler. This works great. When I talk on the phone I close it so I can hear. When the wife's in the truck I open it so can't hear ("SLOW DOWN! YOU'RE DRIVING TOO FAST").

A couple more factors to think about. The day you got poor mileage, was there a strong head wind? When you use cruise control you'll notice when the computer tries to adjust the speed it hammers the throttle(ie. going uphill) as opposed to you rolling into the throttle gently.

The procedure is listed in the owner's manual. If you don't have yours, let me know and I'll post the directions later.

Even if it drops the numders by 50hp/50trq, you're still looking at a 100/100 gain from stock with about a $2000-2500 investment. It costs $6k for a SC to get about 150hp.

If you go that big your main problem will be turning. You"ll have to make 10 point turn to get in a parking spot. I'd do 22s maybe 24s max. You might want to check under the appearance or suspension area. Also watch what mods people have listed under their avatar and PM the guys with big rims.

Not knowing what material they use, I would be afraid the WD40 might begin to "eat" it. Or at very least shorten it's longevity. I would still suggest checking with Volant first.

Part 3: Installed Fast intake, "Big Mouth" TB, 24lb./4hole taller injectors, bigger fuel rails, reprogram PCM for add-ons which included changing the timing 10*. It sounded like a shop vac with all the air it was sucking. It made 430hp/405trq. on first pull. As the computer adjusted itself after a few pulls it made 514hp/481trq! All of this with no cyl boring or head porting.

Nuh uh! It's just a figment of your imagination. He should have said "The Original" SS. To answer the question, AWD.

Don't use WD40! It's not technically an oil. It's more like a penetrant. There's another word, but can't think of it. It would say the K&N would be best as last resort, but try emailing Volants tech line first.

You can do 2/4 drop petty cheap. Rear shackles and front keys. To go as low as the pics is going to cost you. You better off looking through the suspension and brake section for all the possibilities.

If you're planning to get a new one I would suggest a dry filter. Only reason being is that so many people have issues with the MAF getting coated in oil and causeing ill effects. I have a K&N and if I was looking for a new one that is route I would go.

On the bottom or between the cab and bed?

To bad I didn't read this 2 days ago. I could of traded you for mine, but I just painted my gril black. Looks better anyway. Pick any color you want.

if you want to replace it later you could use some Dynamat.

Check For Sale section. Someone is parting out their SS and he may have the whole seat for sale. I saw the ad a couple days ago.

I just painted mine 2 days ago. Used Duplicolor Fusion paint which is made to bond with plastic. As stated before, pop up the center of the push pins and remove rad cover. There are six clips on the main grill. Two sets in the center area and 1 clip on either end by the headlights. I used a set of extra long(12") needle nose pliers to squeeze each clip from the back side to avoid breaking any plastic pieces. You can reach all six clips. The lowe grill has push pins holding it in from behind. 2 on top and about 6 on the bottom. Slide under the truck and you'll see them. If you plan to do the vents, there are 3 7mm screws on each vent. Once out, I drilled out the rivets. I replaced the rivets with stainless screws and nuts.

I refuse to buy JL audio. I bought some quite a few years ago. I went through 2 sets in a month under warranty. I brought back to stereo shop. They checked the size of my box and amp set up and said it was perfect. They gave me a set of Kickers instead. They lasted ten years before I sold them.

Part 3 is this weekend 3/29 at 10am central. They are just installing a FAST intake and dynoing it to see if they can get more power. I'm sure they'll review the entire build for anyone that missed it.

It did it again. Thae dash issue that is. Haven't noticed the headlight problem. I started the truck and no digital readout on the dash (odometer area) or radio. I tried turning the truck off and on a couple times and had no luck. I was hoping it was key switch issue. I guess I'll be looking for loose grounds and wires today. Anyone know if there is a relay that triggers the readout to come on?

I noticed the other day when I unlocked my truck with the remote the front lights didn't blink. I hit it twice to make sure. Now it seems to work. I got in my truck this morning, started it up, and had no digital readout on my radio or dash cluster( both factory), even though the radio was playing. I turned it off and on, no luck. I drove for a minute and it all came back on. Does anyone know if the two are linked anywhere(common ground)? Everything else seems to be fine. P.S. It rained last night.