2bfast

Got to a stopping point the other night and decied to polish the driveshaft while it was out. Wet sanded 400, 600, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit paper. Then applied Mothers Billet Polish with a buffing wheel and went to town.

Trans all back together and cleaned up ready to be installed when converter comes in. Now to the rear. ARP bearing cap studs installed on right side, stock bolts on left. Rear end is pretty straight forward. I will get better pics when I get the build complete and truck cleaned up. We will get the trans back up in and then install the Tru Cool cooler last, i'll take pics of that when we get there.......

Got it all buttoned up and ready to put back in. Still waiting on the converter to come in, so we are at a stopping point on the transmission part untill tommarow. So we moved to the rear and installed the TA Girdle and got that out of the way. Here ya go : Pump side of the valve body Servo bore Stock servos on the left, and billet servo on the right needing assembled. New servos installed in bore Continued....

I noticed a click when I first installed my headers. Like everyone said, you get used to it. I tried chasing down a leak and there wasnt any.

Thats awesome, I just got my trans/transfercase pulled tonight, looks familier!!!

Alright guys, we finally got around to gettin the tranny out and gettin this whole deal started. All in all it went pretty smooth. Your usual hang ups here and there, but nothin out of the ordinary. As you can see we started in on recalibrating the valve body and installing the servos but called it quits for the day. Heres what I have so far : (side note) Thanks Danny, your tips helped this process go much smoother. U The Man

I never really noticed any of these problems?? I did notice the exhaust in general is louder from the headers but no clicking noise. I know Shaun (KcsilveradoSs) put on his Dynatechs, highflow cats, and corsa sport and he said he had the same rough idle like your having. Im not sure if he has it corrected or he is waiting on a tune. Hopefully he chimes in on this matter.......

Alright fellers. I think we should gather up at The Legends up in Bonner Springs (KC), which is on the Kansas side right by the Kansas Speedway. I have thought about where to go here in KC, and I think this would be a good place. There is a lot of places to eat, drink, and hang and still show off our hooptys. http://www.legendsshopping.com/ is the website to the area. I know this on the west side of KC which means alittle longer drive for the easterners, but downtown is a cluster ****, and theres really no where south with a lot of space like this ( that I know of?) Lemme know what ya'll think, just throwing it out there!!

I have this same cooler but havnt installed it yet...soon though. That is actually cheaper than what I paid for mine, but only by 20 bucks or so. Git r done

Welcome to the site. I also have this setup, and I am happy with it. I have longtubes and resonators and its pretty quiet at cruising speed, but when you lay into it youll know it. Magnaflow FTW!!

If I was looking to get this done, I would DEFINATLY pay $125 for that kind of work. I dont mind dishing out money for awesome skill such as this. Props man, thats sweet

Fixing clear coat is very hard to do by hand. You have to use a polishing compound with the proper "cutting" pad on a buffer to eliminate blemishes. I used Menzerna polish, then Tropi-Care swirl cutter to take away the micro marring the polish left behind. Then apply a coat of sealant then a coat of wax. I use Tropi Care products with the Porter Cable 7424 buffer on my truck, and they are amazing. www.tropi-care.com. Lemme know if your interested, and ill show ya exactly what I use and how.

Engine: Texas Speed 228/228 .588/.588 112 LSA Cam, 918 Valve Springs, Chromoly Pushrods, GM Performance Intake, OBX Ceramic Coated Longtubes, Off Road Y-Pipe, Cutouts, NGK Iridium Plugs, Taylor Wires, 160' Thermostat, Throttle Body Bypass, Oil Catchcan, Dyno Tuned by Muscle Car Specialties Transmission: 2600 Stall Converter, Zippy Shift Kit, Billet Servos, Tru Cool Transmission Cooler Suspension/Brakes/Rear End : Simple 2/1 Shackle-Torsion Drop, Drilled & Slotted Rotors, T/A Rear End Girdle Kit Show: POLISHED Valve Covers, A/C Dyer and Lines, Brake & Fuel Lines, Rear Brake Calipers, Tonnau Struts, POLISHED STAINLESS Coolant & Brake Resevoir Covers, Fuse Box & Battery Covers, All Fluid Caps, Underhood "Mirrors", Chromed Alternator and Coil Brackets, Billet Grill, Shopman Polished Bowtie and Brake Duct Overlays, 6.0 Badges, Cleared Lenses, Painted Hard Tonnau Cover, Bed Rug, SSS Brake Caliper Decals, Nothing but Tropi-Care Car Care Products

Dude that is MAD skills......WOW...props

Thanks guys. I am going to take pictures during the progress. We are starting in Tuesday or Wednesday, parts will trickle in during the week...cant wait!!!

The price of OBX Headers should not have been brought up in the first place and does nothing to benefit my for sale thread. -Justin Yes, because ur Dynatechs are the first design for Dynatech, which OBX took over the patent and are selling for about that price brand new. I hope the best for your sale, but we know what these go for, and we are just trying the best for your sale. These are obviously still awesome, and would take a good coating inside and out to be an awesome deal. Good luck with ur sale, someone should jump on these for the right price

Do ur research....red white and blue bud. Good luck

I got my OBX's, which are this design Dynatechs for that price new shipped with all gaskets

Im in

Alright guys, here we go. Time for Phase II of this project. I know its not near as crazy as a lot of the builds here, non the less its a build. Phase I consisted of the basic bolt ons : longtubes, ORY, CAI, 160 thermo, TB bypass, and tune. Phase II will consist of : TSP .228 .228 / .588 .588 112 LSA cam, 918 springs, moly rods, still deciding on either 2800 or 3000 stall, shift kit/servos, trans cooler, T/A rear end girdle, and re-tune. I should have everything but the stall and shift kit by the end of the week, as im still deciding on what direction I want to go in these two areas. I ran it on the dyno last sunday and put down 317hp - 346lbs with a "safe" tune and full exhaust. Be interesting to see what this cam will do for me. I will post pictures of the progress and updates as I go. If you guys have ANY advice or tips towards this, chime in. My first question is where should I start? Should I start with the cam install, then drop the trans and do the trans mods after? Or vise versa?? I plan on startin in next week, so i'll keep ya'll updated as much as possible!

Go on LS1tech and search for Tropi-Care products. Look around on Steve @ Tropi-Care's website and look for what suits ur needs. Call or email him and he will set u up with what you need to make ur paint look outstanding. Iv used his products with the Porter Cable 7424 buffer/polisher with the oppropriate pads and its outstanding. Two thumbs up for Steves products. Turtle Wax and off the shelf products at auto parts stores are ok if your wanting average results, but if your wanting to repair minor blemishes in your paint such was what you say you have....this will do it. PM me if you have questions on my process with those products.....

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090303003358815

I dont really understand why you would want to take out the dront driveshaft in the first place?? If you want to burnouts, buy a 2WD...or start modding. I removed mine for dyno purposes only, and taking special precausions while doing it. Theres a reason why you can get these trucks in 2WD and not just AWD.....

Depending on where this will happen, I might consider this. Damn, left out the KC guys......I see how it goes

Damn it, why couldnt you had these up a month ago......lol. Good luck with the sale, I love mine.