rudy91040

Lol, can't say that I've heard anyone wanting to go faster refer to it as having Gremlins, but we all delude ourselves into believing we need some go faster parts, that just happen to fix a problem that may occur. At least that's what do. The wife doesn't fall for it though.

If you haven't purchased anything yet, my suggestion is to do drop arms. Everything will bolt up no problems, and no loss of turning radius.

Belltechs should be bolt on and go. McGaughy are major modification. Holes have to be elongated on the brackets as well as the spindle. Also, a good amount of grinding is required as well.

Wrong thread and a double post. I hate computers.

Sorry. Wrong thread.

Replied The front kit is $200 and the rear kit is $150 if purchased separately. If you get them both at the same time you save $50, so the total is $300. Those prices are shipping included to anywhere in the lower 48 states. I ship Priority mail insured and signature required so we are both protected under Paypal. Those prices also include all new 10.9 zinc coated hardware for mounting everything except for the rear kit that reuses four factory bolts.

Please don't take that as a dig at you. I just feel bad for the people that spend their hard earned money on parts that they can't use because of misinformation. For the drop spindles, I have mocked everything up on Belltechs and they were fine. McGaughys are way off.

Yeah. I'm not sure who started the rumor that they are a direct swap for the Z06 calipers. But I have had several people contact me wanting to do the upgrade that already bought the CTS-V calipers.

Sorry, they don't. The CTS-V Brembos and the Camaro Brembos are very similar other than the mounting hole size. But neither are even close the the Z06 calipers. If you want to get the brackets and hardware, drop me a line at [email protected] or pm me your email address.

I would think it would be a matter of matching up the body lines, clamp it down and mount it.. Maybe I'm over simplifying it.

They are for the C6 Z06 calipers. If you need part numbers for the calipers, the rotors, the banjo fittings or for the crush washers, check out the how to I wrote in the how-to section

I'm still around. Just been busy with work and my daughters. I'll send you an email in a bit.

Hey MID12sSSS, got a link for that deal on those calipers? People are always asking about the cheapest place to get them and that is by far the best price I've seen. If anyone else is looking for brackets, I still have more brackets ready to go.

Pm sent

Can you do me a favor please? Can you take some pics of the mods you had to do to make everything work as well as general shots of the whole rotors and calipers and email them to [email protected]? Full size is best so I can zoom in on them. You are the first person that has ever had these issues and I'd like to try and figure out why and what I can do to help you and prevent others from having issues. I can't say for sure, but it may be as simple as you using the stock rubber lines. I know all installs I've done were with braided lines. I can't say with 100% certainty that everyone else that has done the Z06 swap has used braided lines, but I would venture to say that a vast majority do braided lines at the same times.

No loctite needed. A small dab of anti-seize is also recommended. Torque spec is I've seen, is 27 lb-ft. FYI, a lot of the Corvette guys recommend not pulling the pad retainer bolts due to them seizing up and stripping the bolt heads. I've read that many owners pull the two caliper mounting bolts, remove the caliper from the disc, swap pads and reinstall.

The brackets are built around a 2005 Silverado SS with stock suspension and factory rear disc brakes, but there have been more than a few guys putting them on Escalades, Tahoes, Suburbans, Sierras, etc. McGaughy drop spindle have different dimensions for the mounting locations than the stock spindle. There have been a few people that have modified different versions of the Z06 brackets to work with the McGaughy spindles, but I don't recommend it. Beltech spindles seem to work fine from what I have seen with little to no modification. Another option is to use drop arms and stock spindles. For the rears, you should be good as well. Of course, this is all based on your Denali being a 1500 series not a 2500 or 3500.

First off, welcome to the forum. JC03ss nailed it. It's only worth what someone will pay. If the truck is as clean as you say and no major issues, sounds like you got a fair deal. There is a lot of good info on this site. Be prepared to read a lot. The only thing I would say in my opinion as far as weak link on these trucks is the transmission. Even with slight upgrades they can go out, but it also depends a lot on how you drive it too. Also, thanks for helping protect our country. There are those of us that do appreciate it

I will say that $600 is not as cheap as I hoped but not as bad as I thought it might be. Please don't take this as me being critical of you. Just some food for thought and a couple things to consider from someone that does something similar already. If I remember correctly BSER pans were $450 originally, but he also did all the work himself, there was no mark up on materials, etc and it was all profit for him. I know you mentioned having a shop make these and so you have to pay for them. I also know from selling the Z06 conversion brackets that you will sell more if they are cheaper, but these roll pans are more vehicle specific than my brackets, so your market is much smaller. Also keep in mind that of that small market, how many people will be willing to pay a good chunk of change to do the roll pan vs other mods? I'm sure having the initial mold made has to cost a good chunk as well and make sure you factor that in for your price because molds don't last forever. Also, I'm sure shipping isn't cheap for these things either with their size and all plus insurance.

I'd say letting the final user add them would be better. That way those that don't want them don't have to use them. Those that want them can add them.

Would the studs be the same studs wether pre-installed or not? If the fiberglass shop didn't install them, the body shop/installer would glass them in on the back side just the same, correct? I'm thinking of it as a stud with a large washer head to spread the load if they are like the ones BSER used. The main reason for my answer to the question as to install them or not is for ease of installation for the end user. Since trimming is involved and its all compound curves, every truck is a little different, wouldn't it be easier to work with the roll pan without the studs. That way the installer could get it trimmed and nice fitting. Then they could drill the holes from the underside of the bed and make a mark on the roll pan so everything would line up. Maybe I'm overthinking it.

Pretty sexy! And the calipers look good too.

Its been a while since I did the mock up. I honestly don't remember exactly why nothing looked like a good way to make a bracket. I just remember that there wasn't anything that particularly jumped out at me as the best route. Please don't let me discourage you. If you have the time and means to make a custom or even repeatable bracket that is safe, go for it. I was simply answering your your question if anyone had looked into it. I will say this. The caliper was on loan to me, so I only had it for a little while to play with it. I've have had instances where I was trying to modify or make something and at first I didn't have any great ideas as to how to accomplish my goal. I came back to it after some time, and saw things differently and came up with a plan and did what I wanted to do. Another thing that I just thought of while typing this. I don't think I ever tried mocking everything up on a drop spindle. Can't say if it would make things better or worse. But I will say that if you did make a bracket that worked with a drop spindle, do it for the McGaughy. I've had way more people want to do the Z06 upgrade on the McGaughy spindles than any other brand and all drop spindles are not the same.

I don't want to clutter up the thread reposting stuff, but check out post 241 and the next few posts, it's been discussed. I've looked into it as well as another member.

There were a few odd brackets I hade made that the moved the caliper closer to axle centerline, but ultimately the lay out I went with s extremely close to Rays design. The main difference between Rays brackets and mine is that the first run of brackets was just radiusing some edges for clearance . The second run was making it a little sleeker and faster to machine.