rudy91040

Those pics are not mine. The above one is from a previous post and the second is from a Corvette forum. From measuring several factory spindles, taking the extremes, the variance was almost 1/4" if I remember correctly. On a stock configuration spindle/brake assembly, the pad doesn't sit at the very edge of the rotor, so a variance isn't a big deal. A happy medium was chosen for the brackets where most people shouldn't have to grind their calipers or machine the rotors hats.

Hey guys. Thought I'd chime in a few things. TampaVmax, brakes look good. You are right, the wheels make the 15" rotors look tiny. For rotor direction, TampaVmax has it correct. If you go into the how-to thread I wrote, you can even see an arrow cast into the hat face on the rear rotors showing the direction of travel. I don't think the fronts have the arrow for some reason. The pads in this pic are installed correctly. In the picture below, the pads on the top are upside down. The pads at the bottom are installed correctly. You want the the little tabs to be pointed away from axle centerline or out of the caliper. The tapered part of the pad is designed to sit into the spring clips. A_furiouSS is correct. There is supposed to be a certain amount of pad hanging off the rotor. Due to variances in spindle castings, everyone will be different. The brackets were designed to avoid having to grind your rotors or calipers.

Why does everything always come down to comparing sizes? That is a really good shot. I never thought to take a pic that shows the rotors next to each other. Really shows you the difference.

My two recommendations are to give supersub aka Ray a call or pm. Last I checked he had the best price shipped but it has been a while. If not Ray, try giving Baer a call directly.

Thanks for the kind words. I try my best to make a quality product that is as close as posible to being a truly bolt-on part as possible, but I have to give credit where credit is due. Ray aka supersub was the one that developed the first front bracket to work with the 15" rotor. I simply tweaked the design fine tuned it a bit and carried on the torch after he decided not to make any more. Before, another person made a different version of bracket that worked with a 14" rotor and before that someone else made a different bracket.

Yep, I still have them. I actually just had a batch of the rears done. Drop me a line if you'd like a set. Yep, I still have them. I actually just had a batch of the rears done. Drop me a line if you'd like a set.

Yep. Drop me an email [email protected]

Can't say this is for sure the cause, so take it for what it's worth. A buddy of mine swapped to a 90 mm throttle body and had all kinds of error codes. He would go into limp mode so often he left a scan tool hooked up any time he was driving to clear the codes. He checked grounds. He wiggled wires. He tried different throttle bodies, newer and older x-links, all with same result. No change at all. All the same time he had a check ABS light on, the display on the rear view mirror was intermittent and never thought there could be a connection. He finally broke down and took his truck to his mechanic. After multiple phones calls to torque rush and hours of no success, the shop ran an additional ground. Low and behold, all codes throttle codes went away, ABS codes gone too, his rear view mirror display came back as well.

Just a suggestion, could it be the wrong rotor for the caliper? If I remember correctly, some vehicles, SUV vs trucks, had thicker rotors than others.

Thanks Downeast, now I'm hungry again.

If you are refering to the pic A_FuriouSS posted, then yes. There are some variances in the caliper mounting point to axle centerline distance in different spindles I measured. A happy medium was chosen. Some will be closer to the rotor hat, some will be farther. I didn't want people to have to grind their calipers to make clearance between the hat and the caliper.

If you are using the stock spindles, 20" rims, have factory rear disc brakes and a standard 10 bolt rear end, you should be good to go.

Oops. Wrong thread

Don't use a normal tap when you chase the threads. They make taps specifically for chasing threads or take a normal tap and hit the cutting edges with a wire wheel. If you use a normal tap it will cut away part of then threads.

I have bought more than a few cases from them at gn shows, but never from their shop. I've also ordered from their website. Great for plinking. No issues for me with 38 special reloads, 9mm reloads, new 9mm, new 22lr, new 223

I couldn't tell you honestly. There aren't many people that go with the two piece rotors because of the cost.

I actually don't know the part number for the two piece rotors. If you call up Baer and give them the one piece part number, they should be able to tell you the matching two piece part.

Nope. Need the bigger Baer rotors and 20" wheels

Also check out the different Corvette forums. You can also do an advance search on google to check the entire country for craigslist. Use the domain name craigslist.org

Just sent you a pm AlScrap

I can't believe someone hasn't jumped on this.

If you will ship to Los Angeles I know someone interested.

I said nothing seemed like a very good route. Not trying to toot my own horn but I'm pretty good at fabricating. I can usually find a way to make just about anything work within reason. I also work with some very talented guys that have all kinds of different skills, machinists, CAD drawings, welders, fabricators, tinkerers, etc. I asked more than a few guys what they thought and everyone pretty much had the same thoughts. That thought being, there was no "good" way to make the Brembos work. There are a couple of different ways that you might be able to mount the caliper. None of which made me comfortable. Everything was too much of a compromise. Material thicknesses would have been thinner than I liked. Distance between mounting points too far. Bracket being to big and adding too much weight. Machining of the spindle would probably be required, which I am very much not in favor. All in all it wasn't something that would econimically feasible either. Yes, a single one off could be done. Anything is possible if you throw enough money at it. Would I want to make it. Nope. I like things to be over-built. When I look at something or think about making something and it gives me a weird feeling that something isn't right I stick by that. Rarely has it failed me. Looking at the Brembo mocked up gave me that feeling. Maybe someone that is an engineer could design something and know that facinging the spindle mouting point to half of its factory thickness is ok. Or having only a .250" of aluminum spanning a distance of 8" wouldn't flex too much. But I still would not feel good about it. To me, I like to know that not only is the part/piece that I'm making going to work in normal conditions, but also when sh*t hits the fan, all hell breaks loose, and we are so f*cked all happens at the same time. Maybe is overbuilding, but thts how I like to make stuff.

Sorry, but the the Brembos on the Camaros and the CTSVs will not work with these brackets. To be honest, I will be surprised if you can get them to work at all on a gmt800 or gmt900 spindle. I have already had them mocked up myself. I decided against making a bracket. Nothing seemed like a very good route. It might be easier if you went with a different rotor than the Baers used with the Z06 conversion. For the Tahoe, as long as you have stock spindles, they should bolt on no problem.

Damn, thats a great deal! Free bump for you