Warden

So you have his plate #?

On my 03 there are 2 ground wires on the firewall just over from the brake booster.The one closest to the booster has a stud,nut and wire end but know wire.I couldn't see were the wire had fallen to.Does anyone know where this ground goes to? I tried to remove a wiper arm today.After I took the cap and nut off it wouldn't budge.I tried prying it up but I didn't want to bust it.Does this thing require a puller or is there another technique? On the drivers side on the black bracket connecting the fender and cowl area right up near the top corner near the windshield I have an alarm spring switch to signal the hood has been opened.It doesn't look factory.Has anyone got the same thing?It may be for an alarm that the previous owner took out. Thanks

Good ideas.I want to try Carbon Fibre,burgundy,white,red and grey.I was surprized how many positive remarks I got on the orange.

A lot of octane boosters contain toluene which is a strong injector cleaner.Back in the 90s me and my friends would buy this stuff in a drum and make up some high octane street fuel.We were running big boost on turbo cars.You need to be careful when buying octane boosters off the shelf.Some will say they add 3 points to regular street fuel.That would bring 91 octane fuel up to 94.If you read between the lines and do some homework you will find they only add .3 which would make 91 into 91.3.One additive that I know does work is Torco.I have a few friends that add a can to their fuel at the track,even though they have meth injection on their high powered FI cars.Just an added safety margin in case they over boost or run into detonation.You would really have to have high compression to see any benefit.If your motor runs fine on say 91 octane with out any detonation,then adding an octane booster will do nothing except help keep your injectors clean.If you think your truck feels stronger after you add a can then take it to the track and do some back to back test runs.Google octane booster and you will get lots of info.Be careful though.There is a lot info out there.You will notice a rusty brown residue on your plugs which is common for octane boosters. The guy mentioned in this thread is a well respected member of the Corvette forum.(jbsblownc5) http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-forced-induction-nitrous/2500891-any-one-tried-torco-octane-boost.html

Do this little mod and wait till he pulls up behind you at a light.

And now in orange.Just because I had them.I don't like them but I was interested in the contrast between red and orange.

It really sucks that GM doesn't use any anti seize on bolts which go into aluminum.It takes a long time to get the "feel" for bolts that are going to break.One trick is to give the bolt a good whack with a hammer and punch,just to loosen the corosion.Next.You can heat the bolt up with a torch and them press a wet rag on to the head of the bolt.This will cause the bolt to shrink while the surrounding area stays hot.Try and loosen the bolt right away.

Spring has sprung.It almost got to 70 degrees today.I started to polish my tail pipe just to get warmed up.;) I think I'll need to drop it to do it properly.I'm gonna wait till the truck is on the hoist when I do the brakes later this week.I decided to paint the V support bracket that stands out from behind the grill.I never could understand why GM never painted that thing until I got it apart.As far as I can tell it looks like it was painted originally but road debris has more or less sand blasted it to bare metal over the years.I just removed plastic cover running over the main rad support.This is the one with the caution decal on it.You just pry up the head of those small plastic hold downs with a screw driver and then pull out the insert that they sit in.I think there is about 8 of them.Next. The main grill is held in with 6 spring steel clips.Just squeeze them from behind and pull on that area and they snap loose.I only had to remove the passenger headlight to get at one of the clips.Now the whole grill just comes off.I placed some cardboard behind the silver V support and painted it.I use Plasticoat Hot Rod Black as it is a semi gloss that matches the original factory black fairly well.It's a small easy mod that makes the front of the truck look 100% better.Oh.By the way. That's why I didn't put it in the how to section.

Just buy one done.Most of the large performance tranny companys have a warrenty which you won't get by giving some parts and your trans to a local guy.A few of these companys will not even charge a core charge on a reworked trans. Good luck.

I think you will be disappointed if you change the intake.Unless you've got some serious work done to your motor all you will do is kill the bottom end power which is critical in a heavy vehicle.Going to a larger throttle body even if the stock intake would work would also be a little disappointing on anything less than a full bore motor.A port and polish of the stock throttle body might be the best you can do and even then results will be negligible.If your pulling the head/heads then milling them down for more compression and or a street port and polish would be a much better investment.

Thanks for the advise guys.It seems no matter what brand you read about,someone loves them and someone had problems.I bought some GMPP front rotors from Brad.They look like good quality and he gave a great deal on them.I've ordered Hawk LT pads from a local shop who had them on sale.I'm going to run them for a few weeks and if they seem ok I'll order the same for the back. Thanks.

Since there doesn't seem to be many before and after brake comparisons.I thought we could put some results together.If anyone has any perimeters they can think of then fire away.I'm thinking some full panick stops from say 80 MPH or so.I know the results will be hard to compare with different tires,temperatures,type of asphalt and weight of trucks.It may still show that one combination comes through more then the rest.Even bigger brake conversions would be welcome just to see how much of a difference they make.I've ordered my parts and should be ready to go in a week or 2.It would be nice to hear from a dead stock Sss with factory brakes and tires.Maybe not how many miles you have on your brakes and make sure everyone runs 30#s cold for the test.We could set a base weight of 250#s for the driver to cover big people like me.If you are 175 then add 75#s to your truck. Anyone have any ideas?

Some straight through glass pack mufflers will not flow as well as a properly designed chambered muffler.Even if they did the difference for a street vehicle under say 600HP would be negligible.

I already bought a set of GMPP front rotors.Now I wish I had waited and got the 06 calipers and rotors. After doing some reading I am totally undecided. Looks like I've got it narrowed down to GM ceramics or Napa Premium.Way too much info.

LS1tech.com is the only place you will find a buyer for that monster.Maybe racingjunk.com.

I know it would be too complicated.How about a controllable transfer case out of a 4 X 4?

Well that blows.It can't be good for mileage.I'm surprized no one has tried to defeat this function.At least have an on and off switch to use only when it's critical.

So does this mean that the rear brakes are grabbing off and on while we are driving along and not touching the brake pedal?

I don't know a lot about it but I think you need a 2005 and up.

I know this is an old post.Anyone tried this? http://www.silveradoss.net/yaf_postst32_Brake-upgrades.aspx

Air bags can be hazerdous. [ quote name=04CHASE' timestamp='1298243194' post='767351] just finding a source for these airbags for a decent price is tough. right now in order to break even id need to sell them for 150 . that would include shipping and emblem already on it. however im not sure how shipping on airbags works if they need to be classified as hazmat or not . also altering an airbag may get me into liability issues so just to be safe for off highway use only i just want to get feedback on the colors so i can get them coming asap. if you guys feel comfortable with that price ill get at least a few together for you guys who are serious. i may also have the option to buy just the emblem and you source the airbag yourself.

UPS and Fed X are a joke for anything bigger then a shoe box.Strap the wheels and tires to a pallet and call Forward Air.Safer and cheaper.

Bump for a good deal.!

Good stuf.You probably got that much out of it because of the power you were making.

Thanks Steve.Freezing occasionally?Our scale starts at freezing and goes down from there:lol: .I've read a lot of factory trucks come stock with that valve.