Warden

Thanks for all the replys.

The 2 senders may have different pressure ranges.I would call the manufacturer.

Thanks guys.I'll need to get one before the snow flies again.I'm going to add a cooler for when I tow.

Good luck with the build.I hope your machinist has done some of these motors in the past.I know they are real sensitive to the right parts and mods to hold together.I guess you are already hooked up with the Typhoon/Syclone forums.Those guys will tell you what you need.I know turbo and converter combo is very important.Again.Good luck.

What RPMs are you shifting at.How many miles on the motor?Maybe your valve springs are weak.I dought it has anything to do with the exhaust.Once it shifts does the power come back and then flatten out just before the shift?

Does a stock 03 Sss have a trans cooler by pass valve? Thanks

I think the TB converter is a 2200.I don't know what the stall is for a stock Sss converter is.Maybe 1800?I think you will feel a difference but hopefully someone who has done the sap will chime in.If you are going to do the labour yourself or you know someone who will do it cheap,then go for it.If you have to pay normal shop rates then I would wait till you have enough to buy the right one first time.In the long run that will save you money.Let us know how it works if you go through with it.

Well.That is the ultimate setup.Perfect.One day when I get everything else done I will buy a bed rug and cover.

That looks great.How much did it cost?When the first spray ons came out I didn't like them.They looked like some had used tar for a roof.They are much nicer now.I had a guy drop by today who had a late model Silverado and he had the bed rails done with the box with Linex.It looked pretty good.

I would call a dealer or a windsheild repair centre.

The fluid shouldn't smell burnt at all.Trans fluid does not smell great to start with but it should never even have a hint of smelling burnt.Get some new fluid and smell that compared to the fluid you have now.I know with the design of most coolers that if a trans blows and debri gets in the cooler that it cannot be cleaned properly and needs to be replaced.This may be an old design but supposedly there are small scales built into the cooling tubes which can trap debri and are almost impossible to clean.You could buy a new cooler which wouldn't be a bad investment anyway and see what happens. Good luck.

Why do you have to take it to that dealer?Aren't warranty repairs covered by any GM dealer?I would take it to another qualified shop and get a second/third opinion before the warranty runs out.For that kinda money I sure wouldn't accept a new noise for an old one.I've worked on a lot of G80 8.5 rears on GNs.We always ran synthetic fluid which usually stopped the clutch chatter on hard right turns.I was told by my rep that the synthetic fluid already had the additive in it.Some cars required an extra bottle of additive.After doing a fluid change I would take the car to a large parking lot and do some tight figure 8s each way and in reverse.This would work the fluid well into the clutch packs. Good luck.

Does anyone use any special method of protecting the inside barrel of their wheels other then just keeping them clean?Someone once told me they spray the insides with Pam after they clean them.I think this would just retain more dirt,but I'm willing to try anything.I just got my new wheels on,so now is the time to start. Thanks

Congrats man.That is flying in a full size truck.It must feel like you're in your front room and hitting the afterburner!Have you tried tightening up your plug gap?It might help with the small backfires.I wouldn't even think about locking up your convertor with all that power and all that weight.A couple of MPH on the top end is not going to show a large improvement in ET.If you lock it up and it breaks,get your wallet out.I think when you get everything sorted out you will be running less stall which will help on the top anyway.Adding a progressive system should really help off the line.It will also lessen the need for a high stall.Again.nice work.

Has anyone tried reversing the stock manifolds like the F Body guys do for a cheap turbo system?

I really like the bed rug.You can even buy a vertion that doesn't go up the sides for just over $100.I was in this situation a couple of weeks ago and cheaped out on a plastic bedliner.It looks great,fits perfect,easy to clean at the powerwash and is very light.

I think 28s will be the tallest you'll find.If you shift into OD it's not going to have a huge effect on your ET.There are also companys that do recaps in any compound you want.I ran a set back in the early 90s and they worked fairly will.You can get a slick pattern but mine had treads.I picked the goofiest name tire,I think they were some Sears brand and had them done in a very soft compound.I got a lot of races as guys thought I had junk street tires. http://www.mandhtire...ion=show_detail

X2. Get a proven name brand.With the extra weight of these trucks you don't want to experiment .For the cost/time to install a convertor you want to know that it is the right one first time.Something else to keep in mind is how strong is your transmission.If you have a stock trans with lots of miles a higher stall convertor may hurt the trans You might consider a performance rebuild while the trans is out. Good luck.

Are they made to stick on the back of the mirror?

Forget the glasspacks.They were made for Hot Rods.They work great for fitting in tight spaces but sound like a 56 Mercury.Outdated technology.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-forced-induction-nitrous/2807502-my-vette-on-the-dyno-made-1490-rwhp-and-1540-rwtq-2.html#post1577250744

Good info. Nice to know you can use cheap street tires.Of course you could have dual line locks to bring up the heat.You would also get better traction with all the spare transfer cases you will have in the back after you do your burnouts and tear them apart.;) Seriously.When I put my winter wheels on the difference in gearing was amazing.I have shorter tires on those wheels.It felt like I had moved up to a 4:56 or 4:88.It sure must be impressive pulling out of the staging lanes with real street tires,doing a couple of dry hops and then going 10s.

These MT DRs hook very well and are streetable as long as you never get caught in the rain.Hoosier also makes some 16 & 17s but not steetable. http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreetRadialII For a true street DR Nitto has some nice tires.I was impressed how well they worked in the rain.If you go to corvetteforum.com or ls1tech.com you will find all kinds of reports on guys running 16 - 20" DRs.

Nice work.

Sounds like a nice truck.You might also try vehicles for sale right above this section. Good luck.