2001silverado364

Dealer has to do it with a tech II. Only way I know of. Probably charge you 35-65 dollars depending on how they feel that day.

What kinda DD?

I know you'd have to get a new door switch for the driver's side and I THINK some reprogramming.

Yes, mark where the steppers motors stop when you turn them by hand on the gauge face.

It's pretty much a stop, you won't miss it, trust me, the stepper motor gets to a point where it won't turn any more to the left.

Turn them all the way to the left, they have a stop you'll feel it. Then mark the area after laying tape under the needle.

x4...

More upside down emblems, and is the roof carbon fiber, plasti-dip? I can't tell.

Is that a crack on the inside of that first cylinder? What kind of springs were you running, that broke?

^^^

They're having problems with water forming in the intercooler at extended intervals of low throttle cruising.

What exactly did you change on the misfire tables? When I tuned mine for a cam, all I did was raise the minimum rpm for misfire detection from 600(I think?) to 1200rpm.

Nope, she's been of no help neither here nor GMT, IMO.

Yep, delhpi calls their plugs they use on these trucks multec2 connectors. Those two ARE the correct connectors, just a little pricy, IMO.

Stock for stock, it'd probably outrun a SS. They're only slightly slower than ford's 6.2

Pretty cool story, guy. Pardon me if it was said earlier, but are the tracks dirt(salt) or are you running on pavement?

Alright, found the right ones this time. From both ebay and injector connection. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=delphi+to+ev6&_sacat=0&_odkw=multec+to+ev6&_osacat=0 http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=189

I'm pretty sure these are the ones you want. Multec connector to ev6 injectors. http://www.ebay.com/...eebb74a&vxp=mtr EDIT: I'm wrong, those are ev1 to ev6 NOT multec to ev6.

I've got a 7.5mm 6 point, not hard to find. Hell, I've even seen some at wal-mart in a tool set. Work perfectly for stripped out bolt heads.

Hammer a 7.5mm over it and try. Did you strip it using a 12 point? I almost stripped one of mine using a 6 point, they are so tight from the factory.

You HAVE to physically change both the ring and pinion gears in the rear diff to change your gear ratio, all you've done is set your speedo off and, as such, the computer thinks you're getting better mileage. Why is this in forced induction / nitrous anyway?

Feel it in the oilpan? What was he using to "feel" it with? I doubt it's the bottom end, but stranger things have happened I'm sure. I'd start by pulling the valve covers and checking the rocker trunions and valve springs.

Running 93?

Looks like he's got 4 kicker solobarics to me. Probably around 3000-4000 watts rms. I(myself) don't have but around 2200 rms, and with the factory alt. and 1 bat. I can play a song and get the gauge down to 11 volts. And that's turning 2000 rpms on the highway. There are plenty of Internet "famous" people out there running more alts than that.

Welcome.