poopnewton

I'd call Colorado Speed. They aren't on sale now but a few years ago when I was thinking of getting a set they were the cheapest. They have price match or beat guarantee on in stock Items. They might be able to beat the prices at Texas Speed. http://www.coloradospeed.com/?main_page=index&cPath=2902_1689_1690&sort=20a&filter_id=387&alpha_filter_id=0

I'd make sure all the wire grommets going through the firewall are in place, get the old garden hose, and start looking.

In all seriousness if a little grease doesn't fix things and it is in fact the sway bar, you should be able to get new sway bar bushings and end links for under $50.00. It's a simple install that anyone should be able to do themselves. There are several old threads on this site with part numbers and everything.

It must be that new gold plated sway bar I was reading about.

blow off valve

If you want something that will be a direct bolt on to a stock exhaust you need to shell out the big money for some ARH headers or I think Kooks makes something that's a direct bolt on too. Colorado Speed sells both and used to have better than average prices the last time I checked.

Get a varex and make it as loud or quiet as you want. Warning they aren't cheap.

If they worked good I'd do it. I just don't want to be the guinea pig.

Wheels. Price seemed too good to pass up. http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/93-770847bc.html http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/93-510853bc.html

Don't be jealous. I should rename this thread to "Hillary scare foolishness". I ended up building 3 more AR's, stocked up on ammo, and 30 rd mags for the AR's and my glock 19. I figured all that stuff would go up in value if she got elected, which I was convinced she'd win. I'm glad she didn't but it will probably be at least 4 years before I can make any money off the stuff. Anybody need a AR-15. lol

contact http://www.gmgaugeguy.com/ he's local in Glendale and can make your current gauge cluster look like one from a SS. He's also a member on here.

I feel like Nostradomus on the Hillary thing so I figured I better get my AR-10 done.

Where did you get the wing from? I would like one but I can only find the eBay wings. BTW the guy who sells the brackets is Carls LQ9 SS

Sounds like way more turbo than you will ever need to run 10's. I doubt a regular 6.0 block would even be able to hold the heads down at the power level a turbo that big is capable of making.

That truck would be the $hit south of the boarder. All it needs is a Sonora license plate and some wheels that stick out 4" from the wheel wells. Maybe a couple of fake chrome vents on the fender also.

$75 Fronts + 30 shipping......what a deal https://www.amazon.com/Spec-D-Tuning-2LBLH-SIV03G-RS-Headlight-Bumper/dp/B016RX16WY

If what he is saying here isn't clear... If you go LS3 with a Holly Hi Ram you will have zero low end and it will not be a good street set up or fun to drive. There was a guy on performancetrucks.net that ditched his Holly Hi Ram on ls3 heads because of no low end and was on a stoked out 427. I'm turbo with a Eledbrock Pro Flow and am redoing stuff to get more low end throttle response back. Be forewarned you will miss having that low end when it is no longer there.

Be prepared to have to run a loose converter if you use one.

Your not gonna like this answer but it you want to put down 500 hp to the wheels and still have good drive-ability then IMO boost is the only way to go.

I did the same thing but in addition to that before I put the new one in I plugged the new one in and turned the key on to make sure it would read zero. I read somewhere it could also be the stepper motor on the gauge itself.

I actually made my own top shock mount at work that will hopefully put my ride height right where I want it. I also turned down some solid steel bushings to go in place of the old wore out rubber ones in my factory control arms to hopefully make everything even tighter on the lower brackets also.

Has anyone used these successfully with one of the knock off ebay wings with pics?

I did return return the stud top parts and I can vouch that Richard did refund me no problem. One of the main reason for me returning them was because the ride height was going to be too low for the DD301 shocks I had. After having them in my hand at one point, yes the two gussets rest on the washer keeping the stud top from sliding in too far. I can't comment on the factory shock hoop being close enough on the other side to keep them from siding out in a different direction because I never got that far to really look at it once I realized my ride height wouldn't work. Either way there is a possibility of them moving around at least a little bit IMO. Also I thought of using one of the stepped rubber bushings that come with the QA1 stud on the top side to hold everything centered and to give everything more flex to articulate. The problem I see with that is that is a very thick set up. You have a steel washer, the hard bushing, another steel washer, the top coilover bracket, the stock shock tower metal, the rubber stepped bushing that comes with the QA1 stud top, retaining washer and then the nut. I'm not so sure the stud is even long enough get the nut on top to hold all that together. I remember looking at it and thinking, maybe yes, maybe no. The guys who do the stud top without the top bracket probably have room for the rubber bushing on top but I'd like to see a picture of all that bolted together on a truck with the top bracket being used. Not that I'm saying it can't be done but I highly doubt that 3/8 stud itself was designed to be in a setup that is that thick with that many different parts even if it does. Again I'm not saying it won't work and maybe had I of had a longer shock I'd of used the stud top myself. What I am saying is that I personally like the other 2 configurations better and unless your trying to go as low as possible, I don't see the reason to do the stud top.

IMO there was nothing to keep the shock stud perfectly centered in top bracket. I don't know if that would be a problem or not over time. I just didn't the idea of the front of my 5000lbs truck being held up by two 3/8" studs if there is a possibility of them moving around in a .800 hole and possibly being weakened because they are not perfectly centered in the bracket causing metal to metal contact between the stud and hole in the bracket. Also the bushing he sells have to be very hard to support the weight of the vehicle without distorting. With the bushings as hard as they are IMO unless the shock stays perfectly perpendicular to the top bracket I also felt that it might side load the bushing one way or the other causing some stress on the stud. I don't know if any of those things are issues or would actually cause any problems over time. I've never heard anyone having a problem. I'm a aerospace machinist though and it probably makes me a little more picky than most people. In any case for those reasons, unless your trying get your truck as low as possible, for me I like the other two setups he sells more than the stud type.

I have the same setup and will be installing it one of these days on my truck. How do you like it? To the OP I bought the stud kit and did not like all the play the 3/8" stud has in the .800 DIA. top brackets. That along with my ride height not being what I would have wanted with the DS301 shocks decided I will not use the stud setup.