Brentd

That may have sealed the deal for me, got a couple months left to pay off the wifes wheels on the card then gonna order the tires. I get zero intrest on the card so i pay off each purchase before i make another one so they dont try to put future payments to recent purchase and let old principle sit idle so that the interest can come around. Learned that lesson with Best Buy lol

Looks like i took the picture hanging from the garage door like a bat lol...thanks man...she still cleans up ok.

I have a few pics, I will let him post them up. Not sure what the purpose of your comment was, unless you were fishing for wallpaper pictures.

Thank you man, my boys really liked the santa cards

Got the popcorn in the microwave....always loved action movies Lol, danny i got the baby powder, just say the word...

Lol, how do i flip a picture in my post? Not sure why it turned it upside down

Finally got off my lazy butt yesterday and washed the truck. And more importantly polished the wheels. The truck originally came with this style wheel and I traded them off for some 24s, as fate would have it, I ended up trading the 24s for another set of the GM split six spokes. I really like these wheels and boy do they shine up. I put them on about two months ago and finally got around to shining them up and putting the vanity lugs on them lol.

Yea, I really want to go 305, I like the tire width, just not sure about them on 8.5 inch wheels, just seems like they would be really swollen off the rim....i wish i had ten inch wide wheels. Then i could go even wider without having to have a tall profile. I miss my 24x10s sometimes. There is also the fact that I am not putting down huge power so the weight of the tires come into play. Who knows, i might bite the bullet and go 305 anyways lol

Oh and one of the members here gave me some really good advise about heads, and I would feel like an ass for not passing it on. If you are purchasing used heads, you can help them out with a good valve job, and one of the good things is you can kill two birds with one stone by having the machinist install your springs too. The valve job will help horsepower and flow and is a lot cheaper than a full head reworking with port and polishing. As I was told, a good valve job and maybe a little bowl work is good enough to get more hp without having to shell out 1000$ more for p&p work, that inevitably will not net a whole hell of a lot more horsepower. Should only cost somewhere from 300 to 500, and like I said, you can get your springs installed at the same time.

Make sure that the maggie you order mates up to L92 intake ports btw. If you are definately running L92 heads, they are rectangle ports, not cathedral like your 317s

Cam Specs can be sourced for your build from a lot of resources. Think a lot of people have suggested Brian Tooley, google him through brian tooley racing, pretty sure you can call him and get all the parts you need as well, including pushrods, springs, lifters (not LS7, stronger ones), trunion upgrade (?, maybe), cam, gaskets, hardware, and any other random things.. I have looked at his online catalogue and his prices were really good. He has come highly reccomended to me. I could only guess as far as the injectors go, but pretty sure 41 lb injectors, if speced for the blower, would be fine with L92s. Probably the same injectors that come with a maggie when u order it for 6.2 motors if i had to guess. Talk with Brian and he should be able to tell you exactly what parts you need to support your build plan. Before you start, get a notepad, start listing the parts you need, dont skip anything, include oil, coolant, gaskets, and hardware, list your major parts you plan on buying, and then go over it with him and let him fill in the blanks and put a brand or part number to everything you need. Then the fun part, spend a lot of money, then get instructionals ready for each step to your build. Contact a tuner, because you will HAVE to have it tuned after all these mods. Dont be intimidated, it cant bite you, just take your time and make sure it goes together the way it came off. Oh yea, dont forget, you can sell things you pull off if you want to reinvest their value back into the truck as well.

Any progress?

Not a problem...I like to live vicariously through others lol so thats why I want to see you get the most for your money!

Right back at ya bud!

I have spent my driving life with the same apprehensions. I dont know when it clicked, but One day I was thinking about what I could do with what little money I had and came to the conclusion that I could do more if I would just do it myself. The key is taking pictures before you start pulling things, just snap a pic of EVERYTHING you unplug or remove so you know how it went on, use masking tape to label things you might accidentally swap around, and have a good torque spec sheet to work by. You can find a write up or how-to on almost anything with a google search, and a haynes manual will get you pretty far as well. I plan on doing all my work when it comes to heads/cam/intake/torque converter. I am confident in my ability to research as well as in my ability to follow directions. I learned that I shouldnt view it as rocket science. Tell you like someone told me.....can you turn a wrench and follow instructions? If yes, then go for it. Measure twice, hell three times, and cut once! Think of all the money you would save that could go into fuel system, a dyno tune, big brake kit or hydroboost or a million other things.

Man I gotta be honest, I am torn. I sit higher than you guys so i have a little bit more wheel well to fill, which makes me think 305/50 because its taller and then I get the pleasure of 12 inch wide tires which I like, or i could do 285/50 and lose some rolling weight, drop 1/2 inch in width and roll close to stock height leaving wheel well gap still too empty.

I say if you have 15 grand to mod, then you need to make the most of it, that kind of money and opportunity doesnt happen very often. Do a quick estimate of labor cost and see where that money could go in terms of one or two or five more things you could to the truck. Get a manual, get a torque spec sheet, and research your butt off. You can do heads and cam yourself if you watch installs on the internet, read how tos on LS1Tech, and ask some of these same guys giving you advice on this thread. Most people on here would be more than happy to answer questions. Go to the builds thread and check them out, you can quickly tell by reading through them who has the knowledge to offer you advice without risking your motor lol. If it isnt going to be your dd, then make yourself ok with putting her on stands in the garage for a while and do your own work. You will be a lot happier, you will become a lot more knowledgeable, and most importantly when someone asks who did your build you will be able to proudly say you did!

Oh I know man...i figured since one was broken to begin with I would end up breaking a couple and in turn piss the wife off because of the bill I would incur getting them drilled out. But some PB blast and a wack with a chisel before cranking on them and they came out easy peasy. I was worried about header flange leaks but the flanges were really thick so they compensated for the missing bolt with GM gaskets. I also worried that I wasnt able to put two passes with different torque on them. My torque wrench only goes as low as 20 lbs so I just torqued them once to 20 and rechecked them a few days ago, seems to be ok, no leaks

My 06 VMax was made in Canada too, eh.

Well got it retuned today. Over a week with long tubes and no tune and it was getting old! MPG's were dropping like flies and the ecm didn't really know what to make of the headers and to be honest it wasn't running or idling very good. After the tune, I saw 19 mpg on the way home on the freeway and that is better than it was before the headers so that is a plus, and it is running, idling, and boogying better. The resonator issue is still on standby, not nearly as loud as I was expecting. Cold Starts are pretty loud but once it warms up it is pretty quiet (for straight-piped exhaust that is). I can hear the exhaust when I am cruising at 65+ clearly but I wouldn't say it is droning into the cab, its just loud enough to hear it at those speeds. I figured since I had it retuned I would go ahead and pamper it some more. It hadn't had a bath since I plastidipped some things on it about 3 months ago so I washed it, and polished the wheels, then i pulled a lot of the plasti dip off except for the LT badges, tailgate emblems and the chrome on front/rear bumper, bumpers will get undipped tomorrow. I forgot how expensive it looks when it shines lol. Now I just need to get some 420s and I will be good for a few months till tax returns come in.

I think the torque numbers are purposely set on the zr1 because of traction, even with PS2s. it is 2lbs lighter per hp than the c7 and with almost 200 more horses. Unfortunately the only thing that the zr1 lacks (if you really consider it lacking in any department) is the amazing differential that the c7 z51 has. The zr1 was purpose built to be a poor mans exotic that can run road courses with the big dogs. It was lightened, built strong enough to eclipse 200mph, and fitted with unbelievable brakes. GM laid the groundwork for an ungodly incarnation of a car when the created the C7, the differential is what makes it shine and when they add 200 horses to it and badge it with a ZR there is going to be a new contender for fastest production car at the little racetrack in Germany. The decision to purchase a pre-ZR/Z0 C7 vs a C6 ZR1 shouldnt be a difficult one, get the one that will be a collectors item (especially if another ls9 is never dropped into another vehicle ever again), c7 z51's will be all over the place before long. Plus there is an exclusivity that comes with owning a ZR1, sort of like for those lucky guys have a SSS, they were only made for a short period of time and if kept in good condition they will have a good value later down the road.

And right as i was about to offer 12 bucks and a half eaten bowl of Blue Bell homemade Vanilla ice cream.

Looks good!

My thought process follows the concept that e/t's become exponentially harder to shave time off of as you enter the ten second window in full size trucks, cars have a slightly lower window but they too have an increasingly difficult time when they hit their relatively "attainable" times. I am having fun with this but in all seriousness I agree with the majority view, it is attainable but not without compromising both the thickness of the op's wallet and his ability to keep his truck as anything other than a track-only vehicle. I know this, and I will probably get flamed for bringing it up, the Veyron super sport has an 8.0 W-16 with four turbos and 1200 hp, its all wheel drive system is incredible, the tires are 50 grand and its "depending on who you ask for the weight of their ss" around 600 or so pounds lighter and 1/4 mile times barely hit the nines. Now I know that I am comparing apples to oranges in a sense, but I am trying to show that if you want to be heavy and run 9's it costs to play, it takes 1200 hp and over 1000 ft/lbs and a much more advanced tcs/awd set-up to get something that is lighter in the 9s. He could do DR's, gut the interior, push well over 1000hp and get there, but the quality of build would require serious research with talented craftsmen, and a deep pocket book. Like I said to begin with, tenths become exponentially harder to shave the faster your running. A cold air intake costs 300$ and shaves a tenth off a stock trucks run, how much do guys running 10.XX second quarters spend to shave a tenth once they have mastered launching their trucks? Tell ya this, it isnt 300$

Lol Or maybe this motor....