Brentd

That sounds like a good idea...if the ultra copper doesnt work then i might give that a try

Thanks ryan and no I didnt lol...bought the shit and didnt use it ...im going to pull it in the garage and spray the seams real well and the inside of the clamps then reinstall the clamps and see if that does the trick

I loved the look but not the crappy Lexani tires or the ride...gonna order some 420's for my 20s and maybe go 305/50 cuz I love the wide look

Im serious, look at the pic of my truck when i had 24s, with the drop shackles it made it look just right...you can get them at O'Reilly's for like 40 or so bucks and you can change them out by yourself. I got the calspeed headers, with ypipe, mls gaskets and band clamps it was 440$ to my door. Definately drop the rear and you will love it!

I will say this....i am very impressed by the quality of stock parts on GM, but then the parts I am impressed with are not made by GM lol. AC Delco and Delphi make stuff that seems to last a life time...its funny that my OE brake pads actually outlasted the calipers, I only changed them because they had uneven wear lol...but when it comes to performance, aftermarket really has the edge.

I had to trim the air bumper valance at an angle to clear the 305s I had on my 24s...wasnt a lot of trimming but it worked.

She fires off with authority but mellows down some at idle...I can feel and hear it idle in my house in the mornings when I remote start it to warm it up lol...have some leaks at the clamps so I havent really got on it too hard but she gets loud loud over 2700 rpms lol..typical stainless header attributes, can hear the valvetrain now, which I read was common with ls motors and headers, needs a retune for sure because my fuel mileage dropped 2.5 mpgs in about 7 miles of driving it and I have been really easy on her. It was running pretty rich before and I figure its running even richer now so a retune shouod get her in line and then I can pull the tacky ass zip tied O2 sensors out. Still havent thrown a cel so thats good. I will be getting a resonator though lol..sounds straight piped...and unfortunately I am not quite redneck enough to keep it that way but I will secretly enjoy it till then.

Or.....

Lots and lots of money will get you to 10.70s lol....1000hp definitely wont do it. And if you do get it in the nines after you have sunk 10s of thousands into it, you will have to turn around and sink 10s more into a tow rig and car hauler cuz a 9 second sss is not gonna be a dd 9 second sss. Shoot for the 10s with plenty of cash and you will be more than happy, hell all of us would be happy if we had a 10 second truck, cuz that is still street-able

Makes me miss my 24s, especially seeing them on your truck cuz mine is the same damn thing except its crew cab, same color and tinted tails and all, only mine came with esky handles. Throw you some drop shackles on and it will really set them off

Yea....almost 2 grand in 80 treadwear rubber is just a start...the ZR1 is an amazing car, ran an incredible lap in Germany because of its amazing handling and its ability to shock most people by putting 638 horses to the ground effectively in a relatively light rwd coupe. ZL1 is a really nice car, but I am not super impressed with heavy camaros....the Z/28 on the other hand is a really cool purpose built car that I can dig.

Alright, I am back lol. Got started on it this past Friday morning ( I had just come off a 12 hour night shift, and didnt really expect to get very much done). I decided it would be demo day, and a test to see how long it would be before my energy ran out lol, turns out I was able to rock and roll all day (thank you makers of vyvanse, and yes it is prescribed lol). Put the front end on stands, read somewhere to not even try to do it from above, so I pulled the wheels and wheel wells, and I can report it definately is the best way. Used a thick canvas drop cloth to cover the dirty ass suspension and brakes, and it ended up serving as a great tool and bolt holder as well. Pulled plug wires and heat shields, almost all the heat shield bolt heads snapped off, didnt matter to me as long as I could get them off Pulled the dipstick, just unbolted it and gently pulled and rotated it and it came out with the o ring no problems. Used lots of PB Blast and used a hammer to rap each bolt with a center punch in preparation and all the factory header bolts came out with no problems (except the one that was already broke of course) Tried for about 10 minutes to put all of my Hulk like strength on the manifold to cat pipe flange bolts, think I may have a hemorrhoid from that lol..then said screw it, I didnt need it anyways so I went on a sawzall tangent and finished up the day chopping everything under the truck. The guy that tried to call me out on my choice of exhaust components would probably have a heart attack, but I bought my header bolts at, drum roll please, LOWES lol...A2-70 304 stainless 30mill M8 bolts. Including the grade 8 bolts,nuts, and washers for the intermediate to Y Pipe flange, I spent about 20$ on fasteners. The budget minded part of me continued to soldier on I guess...flame away I guess Saturday was Christmas for the family with my mom who had flown in so I attacked the install Sunday. Install went good, had a snag when trying to connect the y pipe to passenger side headers, i had them bolted on but not tight and slipping the y pipe on was not gonna happen unless I unbolted them or dropped the tranny crossmember. I considered dropping the crossmember because I was doing this by myself and its hard to hold headers up from the wheel well and slip a y pipe on under the truck at the same time, but I got creative and just zip-tied the headers up and away so that I could slip the y pipe on. It really is a tight fit, but once installed and put in place it fit perfectly. Once I got the y pipe on, I went ahead and bolted the headers in place (didnt torque till the end), thankfully the flange fitting for the "catback" exhaust was on an angled piece of pipe so when it came time to see if the intermediate pipe would work I was able to twist and turn each one till they lined up, and as an added bonus the inter. pipe even tied into the stock rubber hanger. I attached the muffler to the inter. pipe and tied it to my factory tailpipe. Reinserted the dipstick, put the plugs back in (they looked great, so I didnt change them) put some dielectric grease in the old boots (had to modify the heat shield on one so that the rubber of the boot wouldnt touch one of the passenger primaries. Everything got torqued down, wheel wells went back in (did not break one of the plastic fasteners when I removed them so that was something to be proud of) wheels went on, cranked her up and instantly threw a cel. Drove it around to try and get the temps up, noticed my temp gauge wasnt working, brought it home to try and figure out the issue. Went to restart it and the engine just turned over but didnt crank, found out I had accidentally unplugged the coolant sensor on the drivers side, its only a couple of inches to the left of the header flange so i prolly yanked it when pulling the factory manifold. Plugged it back in, gauge was working, CEL turned off. Oh yeah, i just zip tied the rear O2s to the frame till i go get it retuned this weekend. Still have a few leaks at some of the clamps but I will get that sorted after this work week. Sorry for the long post but I figured why not tell it like it was lol. Heres the pics of the install.

Danny, what kind of paint do i need if I use that, I have seen these before....and how long do they last? How many would I need for spraying the covers....i seriousely have no issues with using a rattle can, I have gotten pretty good with making spray paint look good, but I have always wanted to use one of those sprayers...just didnt figure they would last long

Looks good ryan

It helps keep your air/fuel mixture exactly that......air and fuel...

That looks real nice man

I dont know what the deal is then...when I had my 24s I wanted to rotate them in my garage..they were basically 33" tall tires. With the bottle jack fully extended the suspension wouldnt unload and get the tire off the ground. Not sure if it is the autoride shocks or something else. You should have seen it when I installed my drop shackles, the top of my tailgate must have six feet or more off the ground before I could unload the rear suspension. I was told it could be done while on the ground but I didnt want to take a chance and didnt have an extra hand....it took a 2 1/2 ton floor jack with a six by six block of wood fully extended to lift thebass of that truck high enough off the ground to unload the rear leafs. I need to prerun this damn truck it has so much travel. And Danny I think evryone has their own strategic jacking locations....lmao

My truck sits a lot higher than the sss. Vortec max. I had to use a floor jack because the only way i could have used the little bottle jack they put in the truck was to put it under the control arm and I will not do that.

Lol...

Its funny because all my jack does is add weight to my truck, it will barely pick my truck up and when i had 24s it couldn't even get the tires off the ground.....those damn gm jacks aren't worth having lol

Lol....Grizzly, Red Seal Natural fine cut guy here....looks really cool man!

Mine will come on after driving for about 5 minutes and typically stay on...it does keep the temps down, but I believe they both kick on so thats why it is so loud...I forgot what he said he set them at but they are not shy about powering up lol

Welcome...that license plate looks badass on that truck...its rare you see a front plate looking cool on a truck...

Man, the way you mount your subs is going to be entirely up to what you like, i have had both in the past, i had two 12s downfiring under the seat of a 02 Sierra extended cab and loved them. It is all in the quality of the box, quality of the speakers, correctly tuning them to the rest of your system, and chasing down things that vibrate. If you can tighten anything down that is loose you will be happy with any way you fire them.

E fans (especially when tuned to turn on at a lower temp) are not exactly whisper quiet lol