desrtrat

but that is "standard issue" for news crews. CAL-OSHA requirement...you would not want cute pie to have to file a workmen comp case now do you..

we are fine up here in the high desert, but I've got family in Poway, can't see trying to contact them right now. when you evacuate 250,000 people it's going to take some time to locate them.. good luck to you all

and a gun rack

the only thing i can think of off hand is heat and the proper tool. use to make sockets for removing o2 sensors but it's been a while since i had to remove one. good luck

did you check your P/S pump and your alt ? both can cause whirring noise if going bad good luck

remember boys and girls... NEVER TAKE CANDY FROM A STRANGER..

ooops...

April 54 if you look back, that was good music then and now. Perry Como is STILL singing today, and how many of the singers from the 80s will be around in 50 yrs ? but i still love the OLDIES OLD FARTS RULE

here is another live happy ever after...STAY SINGLE...

a little to pricey for me as a fixer upper, but i bet it would make one hell of a pot farm or meth lab

and mine.

we have a 98 Buick Skylark with a 3.1 engine that's been setting here at the shop for over 7 mo. clean little 4 dr. looking for a beater and park the SS for a while. put a fresh battery in it today and fired right up. sounds good for sitting so long with 117kmiles on it. now the problem, check the trans. fluid before starting it up, and it looks/smells good probably changed 15k ago. when i put it in drive..NOTHING put it in reverse, and NOTHING.. no gears at all except park checked the linkage and it is moving. started it up 2-3 times still nothing, checked for leaks, none..checked ALL fuses, good. SO, anyone have any hints as to what more i can check to see what could be wrong. there is no noise at all. i don't want to put a lot of money and work into it if i don't have to. thanks

i would bend it away for clearence like MR P said. if you are talking about rubber hose, then i WOULD NOT USE it. headers/heat and rubber hose = FIRE..

mine was doing the same thing. took it in to the dealer and they replaced it under warranty. bad cluster.. they also did a crank relearn on it also for free i also have a tune and NO issues to the tune or from the dealer. took about 30 min to do.

what you can try is put a digital volt meter on your battery and check your voltage. watch and see how much draw you are having and start pulling 1 fuse at a time while checking the voltage. when the voltage settles and no more loss is found, then check that circuit for the problem. if it only takes a couple of hrs. to kill the battery, then i would start with the a/c clutch, and the alt. they can pull a lot of amps before the wires melt or a fuse is blown. have the diodes checked in the alt. also.. good luck

i would repaint arrivel blue..still the best color the SSs came out with... or something like this... a gold/bronze. yea, the trucks not bad also.

it's FOOLS like that, keep me employed

FINE... so shoot me

did you check with a meter at the battery for what it was showing? about 14v running. it's possible your volt gauge in your cluster went bad good luck

if it's showing 3 mph faster than what your doing, did you put a radar gun on it if is is faster, i asked a GM rep when he was going over mine for diff. work, and stated that they will show faster then what you are doing. i ask him why, and his statement to me was SO IT WILL GO OFF WARRANTY SOONER

DO NOT use slugs, shot only if your going to use slugs, then use a hand gun. you want the spread of the shot in your favor. also you need to get some practice in oi your shooting get use to what your shooting with no trick shooting, because YOUR NOT ANNE OAKLEY, just get proficient in it's use and recoil..

do you have the tow package with your truck ? if so, pull the 40 amp fuse for your trailer lights and see if it goes out. if you then you need to look for a short in the harness, your getting 12v from the positive lead to your r/tail light. also remember there is a second trailer harness that is located on the driver side frame rail where the bed begins. this harness is for people who tow 5th wheel and goose neck trailers. also check your break controller. if no tow package then check your turn signal switch, if i remember gm use to route tail lights/brake lights Thur the turn signal switch.. if still on then it beats the f**k out of me, next stop is the dealer... good luck BTW- i just saw yours is a 06 i would not mess with it just take it in on warranty

i felt it was a big mistake doing a way with the arrival blue, for the silver birch when it first came out in the vette is was good, but now every where you look you see the some color and and it sucks... even my boss has that color sorry guys with the silver birch JMO

been there done that... after rebuild the rear 2x then they replaced with new assembly still whined. come to find out that it was the FROUNT that was bad. sound was traveling Thur the front drive shaft and sounding like a bad rear pinon bearing. common problem on 03-04 SS have them check the front diff..found mine by removing the front drive shaft and going on a easy test drive, whine went a way. good luck