RacerJJ

Wasn't really a sign-up per se. I just posted it up and told people to paypal me or mail a check. I should have some extra's so pm me.

To all of those who ordered them...I should be getting them all squared away this weekend and I'll be shipping them over the next couple of weeks. Don't worry, I didn't take your money and leave the country!

It's for my brothers 74 Camaro drag car. We know a great builder but we need to bring him a case.

Definitely miss GEARMUP (RIP) and, yes we do miss you Dylan. Thank God you've started coming around more lately even if it is just to whore out your detailing venture!

Would anyone here happen to have a Powerglide transmission they are looking to get rid of? Any condition would be fine. I'm really just trying to find a case that is in good enough condition to be built. TIA...

Not sure about the slowness but I know for a fact that you CANNOT just plug and play on your office computer. Stupid Apple only let's you register your pod and library on one computer. My registered computer crashed a while back and I haven't been able to update or buy music since!

Mine didn't stutter at all when my converter was locking too early so I don't think that's it. Could KR be why my truck sounds so low to me on the track after the LT install? I have my sensor sensitivity turned waaaaay down to prevent false knock since I run race gas so I shouldn't be getting any.

I love Blue Moon Hef, Kirin, and an ice, and I mean ICE, cold Rolling Rock when I'm feeling beer. My all time favorite beer I have ever had is John Courage Ale. I've only seen it at two places, one being the Yardhouse. When I'm feeling the hard stuff, I like anything with rum and Bacardi limon and cranberry juice. I'm a bitch, I know.

I'd say it is somewhat common to need new sensors after the header install because of all of the handling you do or them during th install. They are reasonably cheap and easy to install. I would also check your plug wires. The MSD and stock ones are likely to burn. I had to change to Taylor universal fit wires with 90 degree boots and do some re-reouting to make mine work without touching the header.

Need a driver for that drag truck???

I'll be there for the Thanksgiving Bracket Nationals over Thanksgiving weekend.

I am THE Intelligence Specialist for the Disneyland Resort. I work in the Security Special Services Division and I am responsible for statistics and analyzing any and a threats to the Disneyland Resort and the Anaheim, CA Resort area. I will be leaving soon to be a high school history teacher.

Yeah, it's not screaming through the gears like it used to and I don't feel the SOTP gain at WOT. At part throttle, it feels great. Mr.P: I have log after log after log to compare! I am a racer after all! My times appear to have improved but it is hard to tell at the track I was at last weekend. I am running again this weekend at my home track where I have made a billion runs so I'll be able to get a better comparison. I scanned one of my runs and it looked fine as well. I don't know. I think my exhaust is just too short. When I get some time and money, I think I am going to extend it back to it's old location and mayber change muffs.

So I finally took my truck down the track after the Pacesetter install and new tune. Unfortunately it was in Las Vegas where the altitude is high and the wind is bad so my times were slow but I noticed my truck sounding VERY different than it used to. The best way to describe it is very low. My exhaust is very short and dumps just before the bed starts. Do I need to extend it and add an X-pipe? It also just didn't feel like it launched as hard or pulled as hard as it used to. My times were ok so I'm confused here. Is it just something I need to get used to? In January during much better temperatures and better air at the same track, I was going 14.40's. This past weekend in worse air and warmer temps I had a best of 14.25. Based on all of this, should I change something? TIA...

Speedway Muffler in Rancho Cucamonga has done all of my work. No nonsense guys with good prices (IMO). I've never had any issues with their welds or their work.

In Texas, I don't know. I can tell you that I was running 110 octane fuel and was seeing knock retard as well. I determined it to be false knock due to my exhaust so I just turned down the sensitivity of my sensors until the retard went away.

You could try Year One. And I found this cool site in a Google search MotorChrome. Hope these help.

You want to get it welded if you're doing it right!

Congrats! This is one of the best mods money can buy. I'm sure you will be well pleased with your truck's new found power!

Has anyone had this problem with Pacesetter Headers? Is this something I should watch out for?

Because I'm a superstitious dumbass! chpspecial and I got it all figured out. My VE tables were off after the LT's and my o2 sensors were bad. BTW, my leaded days are over!

I think it's nice.......................................for me to poop on!!!! What a disgrace! They should that guy!

Well, it turns out that my o2's were bad and you could easily see it on the scan. When they were bad, one of them (the terquise one if you have HP Tuners) looked like it was dead and the gray one was really rapid and jagged. After I replaced them, they both moved in harmony in big continous waves. It was bliss! My advice to you is gut the cats, delete the rear o2's and get some new Denso front sensors. Link and Part Number You'll need to cut off the old connectors (plugs) and splice them into these sensors but it is worth it and very easy. The sensor swap took me about 20 minutes from start to finish. Good Luck!

Glad to hear the good news Steve! I hope she stays together for a while this time. What pan did you switch to? I want to switch to a racing-deep pan but I'm undecided. Thanks!

I'll trade you my billet bow tie for your chrome one?