RacerJJ

Welcome aboard! Glad to have you here, enjoy!

Congrats on 500!

Ok, anyone who wants one let me know by Noon Pacific Time and include your size via pm. I have already accounted for those of you who mentioned it in the thread and if I don't hear from you by Noon PST, you'll be getting an xl. I counted 10 people showing interest from the thread so that's what I have coming so far. Thanks for your support!

Since you mentioned SSS drag expert, I just thought of another point of information especially for SSS's or TBSS's or anyone with 18"+ wheels...I takes longer for big wheels to react and get rolling so finding a spot on the tree and staging is especially important for quick reaction times and consistency.

Ok, let's just say lucky number $13 shipped. My paypal is [email protected]. You can pay whenever you like or you can pm for alternative payment options to avoid paypal fees.

Ok, I can get more. They are going to cost me $10 and I have never shipped a shirt before so what sounds fair for those of you that want them? $12, $15 I'm not trying to make any money on this deal so let me know if you have any experience shipping shirts. Some details about the shirts...They are white, the large logo in the first post is on the back and the top part that says Summit Champions is centered on the front. It really is a great looking shirt. I should get them no later than the 2nd weekend in October so it would be great if y'all who wanted them pay before then via paypal or other methods. Let me know...

Well I sure can't see it.

I sense the sarcasm For the record, I believe we came to an agreement that the leaded fuel wasn't good for the o2's. I've known that the whole time. I just figured that I would change them out when they went bad just like I'm going to do. I have already had it re-tuned and you'll be happy to know that I am not using the leaded fuel and am switching to unleaded VP or Torco. Thanks for your input even if it was sarcastic.

Second weekend in October at Las Vegas

Ava tar is gone again? WTF?

Thank you very much! That's what I was thinking.

Considering I'm getting a lean code, I doubt I'm running too rich plus it's not coming from the exit of the exhaust. It's more coming from the pipes themselves. So far! We'll see what the track says.

Yes, you are correct! They are different but, try to follow me here...on the new sensor there are 2 black wires on one side and a blue and white wire on the other side. The plug that I cut off of my after cat o2's (these may have different wires from the fronts, I don't know yet) have 2 browns on one side and a purple and a tan on the other. Is it safe to assume that the 2 blacks on the new ones are the same as the 2 browns on the old ones?

Outstanding! Thanks to Reynaldo's help, it runs, drives and idles better than ever. I can't wait to get it to the track. I'm still getting a lean code but hopefully my new o2 sensors will repair that.

I didn't notice it that strong when I first ran it open header after the install. I could mostly only smell the raw fuel. Now, with the exhaust done, it was VERY strong. I don't know about how long it lasted because I only drove it minimally yesterday. This is the first time I have really driven it since installing all of this. I think it's the first time the headers really got up to temp as well as the rest of the pipes. Could this have something to do with actually driving the truck? All it has done since the install has run in the driveway.

Some tracks or classes require that it is marked. If the track is using auto-start, then you don't have to write it. It isn't cool to write "deep" as it means that you have to deep stage because you can't cut a light! Now, since I know someone will ask, auto-start is...when both cars are pre-staged and one car stages (both pre-stage and stage bulbs are on), the starter engages auto-start. Auto-start (used at most tracks for most events) is an electronic starting system that gives the the driver who is not staged yet 7 seconds to get staged. If he/she does not stage in that alotted time, the light will go instantly red and the driver will be disqualified due to "timing-out." Once both drivers are fully staged, the tree comes down automatically between 3 and 5 seconds. This automation of the starting process eliminates staging "duels" or games that people can play on the starting line. So, if you are deep staging at a track using auto-start, the starter cannot and will not wait for you so you better hurry on in there.

I'd be happy to. Staging shallow is...Turn on the pre-stage bulbs and stop. Then, slowly "bump" into the stage bulbs until they just come on and mash the brake. This is the most consistent way to stage because you can generally stage in the exact same spot every time which is important for consistency and your times will be faster as well. Deep staging is...Turn on the pre-stage bulbs then the stage bulbs and continue to roll forward untill the pre-stage bulbs turn off but the stage bulbs are still lit. This can also be very consistent because, if you have enough time, you can "bump" into that position as well. Deep staging is dangerous however, because it is much easier to red light as you are that much closer to disengaging the starting beam when you launch. Deep staging definetly is an art for the folks that regularly do it and it can sometimes cause you to lose up to a tenth of ET. With that being said, most bracket racers like to stage as shallow as humanly possible because it is the most consistent. In my opinion, you want to do one or the other because you can duplicate your staging position almost exactly every run which is important. You definetly do not want to stage in between deep and shallow as your vehicle will run different times and your reaction times will be all over the map. So, in a nut shell, deep=better reaction time, easier to red light, slower ET...shallow stage=more consistent, quicker ET, lots of practice to learn your spot on the tree for good reaction times. Hope this helps.

As a Disney Cast Member, I cannot support such a post.

What is your 60' time? Depending on that, if you stage as shallow as you can and leave just as you see the 3rd amber light, you'll be .020 to .080 all day long. That .060 was pretty impressive for not being a regular racer. Don't worry about those r/t's. It has taken me racing almost every weekend for over 5 years to cut good lights MOST of the time. I am still late or red a lot of the times.

This is one Caddy I'd like to drive!

If he wants to do it right, tell him to spring for a 572 big block. No that is some power.

Cool! I'll keep a look out for you. I'll be with the Auto Club Dragway at California Speedway pit area. This race is huge with all of the tracks in the Pacific Disvision (Utah, California, Arizona, Hawaii and Nevada) competing so I may be hard to find but I'll be the only SS there.

Get the 9.5" 3200 Stall. I promise you'll love it!

That's a great luau...went there too and several people were getting married there. Take the river cruise with the Smiths up to the Fern Grotto if you can.

I bought some new Denso sensors but they have the wrong plugs on them. I plan to just cut them and splice the old plug onto them. Just looking for a little feedback and info on this. Are all of the wires the same (just wire) or do I need to make sure they match up in the correct sequence? TIA...