budhayes3

Just to clear a few things up...LED's require less current to illuminate, but since they have lower resistance than a regular bulb, they will actually cause current in a circuit to increase, possibly blowing a fuse, unless a resistor is also installed in that circuit. Think of Ohm's law, as resistance goes down, current goes up...you can equate current to the "speed" of electricity in a ciruit, if it goes "too fast" a fuse will blow. A resistor helps to slow the current down...hope this helps.

I believe that the mentioned EVAP vent solenoid is located back by the canister, it is different from the purge solenoid...be sure to check all of the vacuum hoses in the EVAP system, as well as inspecting the charcoal canister for cracks...

I'm planning on upgrading from my current PermaCool 17k to the TruCool max with cold weather bypass to protect the FLT level 5 I plan on getting to replace my current broken 4L60E. Seems like it's the big dog of coolers and I haven't heard one complaint about it. I'm only planning a 3k stall, but I'm still not sure if it's going to be a 9.5", 10.5", 11" or what. Mr. P, you've noticed that the intercooler blocks enough air that it won't allow flow to the trans cooler if it's mounted behind it? What about the radiator and ac condensor, any problems there?

Delco platinums = .060, Delco Iridiums = .040, pre-gapped, do not attempt to gap them as you may snap the iridium tip off, which is micro-welded to the top of the plug. If you must gap them for some reason, grab only the ground with something like a pair of needle nose. Be very careful, even just checking the gap can damage the electrode. I like either Delco iridiums, or NGK TR55 (copper, gapped to .055) or TR55ix (Iridium) As for wires, I like MSD's or the stockers.

That's a nice clean piece, good job Hey Krambo, keep me informed of future track days at Island, my truck's out of commission but I might be able to come and hang out

I'm running Harland Sharp 1.7's on my 5.3 and they have been flawless so far, they've been on there for about 20k and abused daily. I did have to grind the head a little bit on the pushrod side as the clearance between the rocker and head seemed a little tight, but besides that they fit right under the stock valve covers with no problems.

I will be doing my trans/converter on my back (when I can afford the trans lol) and my biggest concern is the Y-pipe, as it is a slip fit assembly. Luckily it is secured with band clamps, so there shouldn't be any dimpled metal, but I still feel that it is going to be a pita to pull apart. I have a transmission adapter for my floor jack that should come in handy. I'm going to be doing this by myself also, so I'm going to have to get creative with a couple of things, especially the transfer case.

You could, but I don't think that it's totally necessary (for most applications). The Yella Terra's are some of the best out there, but they're pretty expensive....put it this way, it couldn't hurt. Alot of guys are running big cams on PT.net and spinning their trucks up over 6500 rpm on the stock rockers with no problems though. I have Harland Sharp rockers which are a direct bolt in and have been problem free for a couple of years now. I bought them (at the time) because I was trying to diagnose some valvetrain noise that I thought was a couple of rocker arms, and I thought I'd upgrade. Harland Sharp also sells a stock rocker upgrade that's fairly inexpensive and involves a stronger fulcrum too. Yella Terra, Harland Sharp, and the factory stuff seem to have good reputations from what I've experienced and read. I have heard of some Comp rockers failing, those I'd stay away from

Depending on how big, he should use factory rockers, which are 1.7

If you plan on keeping the 1.8 rockers, don't go too big on the lift of the cam you choose, or you may run into piston to valve clearance issues. You could always sell the rockers and put the cash towards a cam spec'd the way you want. As far as "which cam's the best", it all depends on your needs, how you plan to drive the truck, future mods, etc. etc.

That cam will require upgraded valve springs, but should be able to get away with the yellow LS6 springs. In a 5.3, you're going to want to go with a higher stall converter to optimize the cam's powerband...I'd say at least a 2600 stall, but a 3k stall would probably work best.

Installing a catch can is a piece of cake, just make sure that the hoses go to the proper ports on the can. One port will be from the PCV to the can, and the other will go from the can to the intake. Here's a pic of where I mounted mine.

I can tell you that Gibson makes a quality product...I've had a Gibson stainless single in/dual out cat-back on my truck for over 7 years now and it's held up great against New Jersey winters with snow, salt, slush, etc. I removed the tailpipes when I lowered the truck in 06, and they were still solid.

Sounds good I have to remember to check back here more often...I've been missing some good threads I'll be sure to give you a shout next time I head up your way also

The wheels look awesome man, really nice I was gonna reply in the PT.net thread, but I somehow can't seem to find it any more

Nice pics, looks like alot of fun Your little girl is adorable

Thanks for the kind words everybody She amazes me more every day

Got some recent pics of my little 10 1/2 month old princess at her cousin's 1 year birthday party.... Chillin by the pool in her beach chair... Suckin on a rib bone... And just lookin downright cute while playing with the birthday boy!!!

That was awesome

I always wear my seatbelt....starting about 10 years ago. I never used to until my wife talked me into it, now I couldn't imagine not wearing it.

Excellent looking truck...the NNBS's have really grown on me. As mentioned though, they really need to be lowered and modded to look good.

From what I've read both here and at PT.net, it seems that fuel injector failures are quite common...

Those of you who are tired of their SS's can feel free to drop them off at my place, I'll gladly drive em P.S...there's alot of sweet sig pics and nice avatars around here

I think those are gloves lol... and yea, as mentioned above, you need to put a wrench on the inside to hold the insert or it will just spin while you try to loosen the bolt.

How about some 8.1 31lb injectors? They'll plug in w/o any fuel rail or electrical connector mods and just require tuning.