budhayes3

Mine gave me no signs, I was cruisin' down the highway with my 2 1/2 year old daughter sleeping in the child seat, went to accellerate a little bit, and all of a sudden the rpm's just jumped up and the truck started slowing down. I was able to rev the snot out of it to limp it home, but when I pulled the dipstick there were little chunks of clutch material all over it. My guess is that the lockup clutch took a dump and sent pieces of junk through the trans.

God that's ugly

I checked PI's website and they state to only force converter lock up at WOT at top of second gear, right before the 2-3 upshift. They state that a Transgo shift kit is highly recommended.

The CircleD is supposed to have a pretty serious lockup also...I would assume that you can lock a triple disc at WOT, but I thought that I read somewhere that PI does not recommend locking any of their converters at WOT, even the triple disc...I could be having a brain fart though

FWIW, alot of torque converter manufacturers recommend not locking at WOT at all as it will burn the lock up clutch, the only tq converter manufacturer that I can think of which will allow a WOT lockup is CircleD, who "dares you to break" their best converter

Granted I'm not an SS, but my suspension is very similar to you SS guys, just a little shorter lol. I dropped my rear by installing 2" shackles and removing the 4x4 lift blocks, and I didn't need any shims...my drop actually cured a vibration I had lol. I dropped the front with Belltech keys and cut about 1 nub off the front bump stop. You want the front bump stops just touching the lower control arms, not completely off of the control arms and not compressed against the control arms. The bump stops are actually factored in to the spring rate of the front end and aid in the feel of the ride. When I first dropped my truck, I cut the bump stops too short, and the front end was wishy washy. Then I bought a new set of rubber bump stops (the factory Z71 bump stops were made of a much harder material), and cut them until they just touched the lower control arm and the front end now feels responsive...aside from the bumpsteer that I experience which is much worse when I have my summer 20's on, but not so bad with my winter 16's.

Yea, that's the intake I referred to in my post, I'm very interested to see how it performs, I'm sure that Richard at WCCH will do some testing on it real soon. As for the LS6 manifold goes, I'm not completely sold on it for truck performance. A couple of guys at PT.net with LS1's and 6.0's with worked heads and healty cams (226ish duration and close to or above .600 lift IIRC) have done the swap and only gained maybe a tenth in the 1/4. That's alot of time and coin to drop for a tenth IMO (water pump, pulley relocation, etc.).

Enjoy!

I'm really not sure, but I believe that it's on the driver's side, bolted to the cab somewhere? Might have to crawl under there with a flashlight and look for ground straps in that area (to the cab, frame, etc.) Sorry that I don't have more precise info than that

AFAIK, it's the same stuff as the Volant stuff, just red instead of blue

Just leave it alone, you'll be fine, especially since the weather's getting warm. If you check your owner's manual it will have a chart showing which oil you can run at what ambient temperature, and 10w-30 is listed. First you need to know what the numbers mean...the first number (10 in this case), is the oil's weight properties that it will take on when it is cold, the second number (30), is the weight the oil will take on when warmed up to operating temperature. Both oils will have the same properties when warmed up, but the 10 weight oil will have slightly heigher weight when cold. It's not thick enough that it will cause any problems, and you drained most of it out anyway, so I wouldn't worry.

With the way I plan to build my LQ9 (WCCH StageII heads and Vinci 220/224 .551 114), and where I drive it most (on the street), I like my current truck manifold. I works fine in the powerband I live in. If I was to put a bigger bumpstick in there and visit the track every weekend instead of just a few times a year (if that much lately), then I might look at a FAST or something like that. I'm very intrigued by the new Edelbrock intake, looking forward to some numbers and seeing how it performs. Richard at WCCH will be testing it soon I'm sure.

My truck has been out of commission since the end of Novemeber thanks to a smoked 60E, not even 60K on my mildly modded truck...I know how you feel man. I've saved up about 1/3 of the cash for an FLT Level 5 so far, then I still have to save for a converter, wether it be a Yank or Circle D (not sure if the Yank TT3000 will be strong enough to survive behind the heads/cam LQ9 I'm building)

There are metal check balls in the valve body, don't know how it's possible for them to work their way out unless someone's already had the trans apart and neglected to put them back where they belong

I'm using an Amsoil dry filter for my Volant CAI, there's some pictures of it in this thread: http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=53527 The quality looks great, and I like the idea of not having to re-oil it or worry about oil getting on my MAF or in my intake. Didn't feel any noticable gain over the Volant filter, but I didn't lose anything either. I think that filter combined with some mods to your stock airbox (cut some big holes or hole in the bottom and modify or replace the intake tube with an AirRaid tube) would be just as good as installing an expensive aftermarket CAI, and actually better than some of the open designs since it's sealed off from the engine heat.

Rear brake accelerated pad wear may be caused from moisture and road grime splashing on to the rear brake assemblies, there is a TSB in reference to this, and a "mud flap" kit that is available from GM to help combat the problem. Basically there are mud flaps that get installed into the front bottom of the rear wheel wells to try and keep road junk from spashing on to the rear brake assemblies. The mud flap kit part number is 15765007. Generally inner pads, front and rear will wear quicker than outer pads as Fireman31 mentioned. Now is a good time to replace the e-brake shoes as you mentioned, since you'll have it apart, and Fireman31 covered the other items that you'll need.I had to replace my ebrake shoes but that was because one of my retaining clips broke and the shoe shifted and rubbed against the inside of the rotor (there is a TSB in reference to this also, but I believe that GM resolved the issues with that prior to when the SS's were released. The ebrake shoes got bigger revised retaining clips). I have the Russell 5 hose kit and I'm very happy with it, I have felt an improvement in the feel of the brake pedal...no complaints here :thumb:

The GMPP is a nice looking unit

Yep, everything functioned normally, couldn't even tell that the PCM was tuned until I installed the fans and hooked everything up and the engine reached the efan turn on temp.

I like how Justin does the tuning with the sccan cable where he has you do some logging and fine tunes off of that, seems like it's the next best thing to a dyno or street tune. When I eventually swap in my LQ9 I'm going to have Justin do the tuning, I may even call on him when to make the necessary adjustments for I swap my transmission.

Yes, you can get it tuned first then do the fans later, this is what I did when I did my 05 efans. My PCM was tuned for the fans a few weeks before I did the install.

Red Radix and coil covers, with black ribs on the Radix and black lettering on the coil covers

AEM offers a dry filter, as does Amsoil. I have the Amsoil dry filter in mine (pn: EAAU6080 ) It just touches the lid a little bit, but not engough to casue any problems, the lid still closes and tightens up Volant filter on left, Amsoil on right

I believe that there is a ground that is problematic on our trucks, might be on the back of the cab on the driver's side?? Not sure if it will cause the problems that you describe, but I know that I've read of a ground issue on PerformanceTrucks.net...

I had my rotors replaced under warranty at 11k, they were rusted all to crap and noisy as hell. They didn't replace the pads though as they deemed them to be OK (grrrr). I replaced the rotors again myself at 37k as they were rusting apart again, at that point I put new Praise Dyno pads on along with their cryogenically treated slotted rotors front and rear....been good ever since knock on wood (23k so far).

I agree with cleaning the MAF, it will actually cause some wierd transmission issues. The stalling when coming to a stop sounds like the TCC (torque converter clutch) is staying engaged...if you're not experiencing a MAF issue, may be a trans issue, but I'd go after the MAF first.