Bowtie70SS

I noticed that too, especially since winter has hit here in Ohio. I figured it was some kind of feature to get the trans up to proper operating temperature. Mr P you put a thermostat in your transmission line correct? I'm thinking that I may need one since my trans cooler is a giant Setrab oil cooler and my trans temps here lately haven't been above 140. Dave

It's funny how police can get away with douche moves like that when they would ticket you for the same thing. I believe in Virginia they can give you a ticket for driving in the left lane and not passing traffic. Probably a lot of states are like that but it never gets enforced. I hate to get behind a rolling roadblock. Dave

I didn't think pieces of piston would stick to a magnet

See now that's the kind of feedback I am looking for. I don't want to see my buddy spend money on scrap metal. On the other hand we know someone else who wants one for their transmission shop so they can road test cars on it. Later Dave

Transmission slipping? Check the fluid. Only other thing is if you got some bad gas and the pcm reverted to the low octane timing table. Dave

Double check the PCM connectors and all of the grounds especially the ones at the back of the block where it bolts to the trans. I think I would temporarily disconnect the alarm to see if that makes a difference and also check the under hood fuse box to make sure no fuses or fuse links are blown. You need someone with a really good scanner or logging/tuning software so you can look at the sensor read outs, etc. Man that would be killin me all that work and you can't drive it. Damn Dave

If I'm thinking right 3.1's like to eat head gaskets and have some goofy coolant crossover tube inside the intake manifold. That said head gaskets aren't that hard and for someone who knows cars and how to watch a temp gauge you shouldn't have any problems. BTW 175 may be a little on the high side compression wise could be just carboned up though just seafoam the hell out of it. Later Dave

Ok here's the scoop. They did away with emissions testing here in my part of Ohio a couple of years ago. Long story short I got a call today about one of the dynos that they use to run the vehicles on for emissions testing and the asking price is darn near scrap value. I was wondering if anyone has knowledge of these dyno rollers and here's the thousand dollar question: Is this the same as a chassis dyno and would I be able to get the software to make it work or is this just a pie in the sky. My friend who called me about this is a master welder who owns his own fabrication/machine shop and he is confident we could build a way to make it portable and we could use it if the mechanics of it can be figured out. Once he gets it I'll post up a brand and a pic because what I am really hoping is that the only difference will be software and some type of pickup for the tach signal. Thanks Dave

You can use stock cats with Arizona Speed and Marine headers. I don't see why you couldn't cut the pacesetters down a little although you may want to look around for some pics. I think they are only 2-3 inches too long. Dave

I'm gonna guess if the the tune up is in order then it's clogged catalytic converter(s)...of course that is purely a guess. Dave

The google ads suck!! I guess it's your right to make money however you can though. It would be nicer if they were at the bottom of the page. Dave

We got our fingers crossed for you. Dave

Man I wish I had the balls (and the extra money) to try that. AWESOME!!

Yep as long as the antifreeze tests good you should be ok. Dave

The worst thing is when nothing jumps out at you. Could it possibly be piston slap you are hearing? My old engine was not assembled correctly and had way too much skirt to wall clearance. It sounded like a diesel when it was cold...all forged pistons make some noise. If it is valvetrain noise then it could be a oiling issue ie bad pump o-ring, obstruction in pickup tube, or bypass vlave sticking open. I'll tell you...I have slapped a junkyard 350 together and threw a big cam and some headers on it put it in my Chevelle and beat the snot out of it for 3 years but if you dump $3-4k in something you can guarentee something's gonna happen. Dave

Would the lifter move up and down but got tight when you went to pull it all the way out? There's a serious amount of tension from the valve springs so I doubt if the lifter was stuck...was there any scuffing on the body of the lifter? I would mic that lifter as opposed to the others. Also did you try to replace it with a different one? What lifters did you use? Also did you put the lifter on the backside of the lobe and check to make sure the rocker wasn't loose indicating too much valve lash. I feel for you, I hope you get it figured out. Dave

What part of the country are you located? Definately don't beat on it untill it's fixed and tuned correctly. How much boost are you running? What fuel pressure are you seeing at 5500? Give us some more details so we can help you out. Dave

Even if you lose you still win...You have a Chevrolet SS truck and he will still have a Mazda. Ask him and see if he car tow your truck to the race track, or go to Home depot and pick up some drywall for you, bet not. Dave

So you have a 18 inch black wiener? Keep it away from me

Stock trans lasted 67k? FLT has a great rep, but if the stock one lasted 67k then a stock rebuild with a few upgrades is way cheaper than $3500. Dave

Did you check the trans fluid? Where did you take it? Did you wait there, or did someone have a chance at a joyride? Dave

The reason for the sale is because they kept me waiting so long on it that I went and bought a 10k mile used engine. The used engine cost me $2800+tax and I need to recoup me expenses. I would love to be able to keep it but I can't afford to so it's gotta go. My truck is my driver so I had to have it up and running. Thanks for the bump! Dave

I have the original engine out of my SS for sale. The short block is completely rebuilt with Mahle forged pistons and cracked cap connecting rods with ARP bolts. It is bored .010 over and I was told will have 9.75 to 1 compression with the stock heads. Here is a list of parts included and condition: Short block: 0 miles Completely rebuilt with new pistons, rods, rings, bearings, balanced. Cam: I ran it for 3000 miles in this engine Comp cam .640/.640 227 115 lobe sep Lifters: New morel ML2148H-16 Heads: Stock 317 with Patriot springs(3000 miles on springs) with TI retainers and 10 degree locks and seals. Heads have 55k on them Timing Set: 0 miles New billet double roller Oil Pump: 0 miles New GM (I still have to pick up) Pushrods: Stock 55k miles Head bolts: ARP Used 3000 miles Rockers: Stock GM 55k miles NO coil packs or stock intake, accesory brackets available The crank pulley has been drilled and pinned but not installed at this piont. I have all of the original engine covers, the stock oil pan, manifolds, valve covers and water pump. At this point the short block is wrapped in plastic in the garage...just picked it up last week. The engine is not put together (short block is) but I would be happy to assemble it if somebody is interested in it that way. Other wise I may consider parting it out (short block as a complete unit though). I do take paypal and I will mock it up, put it on a crate and drop it off at a shipper although we'll have to work together to find one. I am looking for $2800 which I believe is more than fair. PM me and I can give you my phone number if you want more details

You could grind the nub off, then drill and tap a hole. Then use a allen head cap screw like the original one. I like the looks of that beefier tensioner keep us posted. Dave

Yeah you gotta take the bolt all the way out...the nut has an angle on it that keeps it from turing when you loosen or tightn the bolt. Dave