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Bowtie70SS

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Everything posted by Bowtie70SS

  1. Muffler body is 22 inches long 13 inches wide not including inlet and outlet pipes. Heat exchanger core is 6X22 overall length is 26 inches. I'm having camera troubles, I'll borrow one tomorrow. And to answer the other question I am 30 miles northeast of Cincinnati my zip is 45122 Dave
  2. All right put up a link to the site...it will take some work to ban 20 or 30 of us...plus it would be fun. Japanese truck what an oxymoron Dave
  3. The pics are in my camera...I have to buy a new cable to download them tomorrow. Sorry I'll get them up ASAP!! Dave
  4. I have a few items to sell... 1. ASM Long tube headers. I bought them used from a wrecked truck. They had a couple of small dings but don't leak. I had them on my truck for 15k miles. There is one spot on the drivers tube where I heated it to take out a ding and ruined the coating. The passenger side header has had the egr tube cut off and welded up (crappy looking but dosen't leak). These headers sell for like $800 new and are high quality. You can reuse the stock manifold bolts and gaskets. I will also include the original headpipes off of my Silverado SS...they have the cats removed and you coluld bolt the whole thing on. I have pics of them, but my cable to download them is MIA I have to buy a new one tomorrow. $400 includes shipping on headers and headpipes. 2. Magnacharger Radix air intake tube. It is cracked right near where it bolts on but could be welded up...you could use it for a 90mm conversion part if you modify it. Looking for $50 shipped. 3. Brand new stock Cobra heat exchanger approx 10X24 inches. I was gonna use it but went another way. Looking for $100 shipped and it is new in the box still. 4. Flowmaster muffler to replace stock SS muffler. It was on my truck for 20k miles sounds deep. I paid $130 I think and I will take $50 + Shipping 5. Phantom Autometer mechanical fuel pressure gauge new in box $40 shipped! I WILL ACCEPT PAYPAL ON ALL ITEMS Thanks for looking!! Dave
  5. Welcome aboard...you could sell of that Mustang to help pay for the truck! J/K you won't find a more helpful/knowledgable group of people than on this site. later Dave
  6. There is a bushing in there that goes bad as well. If you can move the slip yoke more than 1/8 of an inch inside of the transfer case then you needa bushing and a seal. Dave
  7. You need to use the data logger.Start the engine put the parking brake on and hold the brake pedal down then open it up and connect to the PCM. Click on the engine icon and it will open up the engine control menu. Click on the relearn tab and it will walk you thru it...I need to run out and grab my lap top to explain exactly. Also I'm sure it is on the HPtuners forum. It only takes about 30 seconds to do Dave
  8. You need to have HPtuners or a tuning program to do it youself...the dealer man charges around $50 for it. Maybe you can find a member on here to do it for you...I'd do it for free and I live in Ohio, where are you? Dave
  9. The stock bolts and gaskets work very well...lots of people reuse them including myself. No leaks Dave
  10. Could be something in the tune...if shift RPM and MPH aren't "made" then it won't shift until both are...any codes? Make sure none are disabled. Dave
  11. I would say get ahold of SSBnoonSS he has ported a bunch of them. I think it was said to be worth around 10rwhp. He does them on an exchange basis for $100?? I think and they are very nice. Dave
  12. Thanks so much for the deal on the converters and SS tip. You did a killer job of packaging it all and it arrived safe and sound. My boys thank you for the big cool box to play it. Dave
  13. Guess you gotta get rid of that yop speed limiter huh? I can't wait for next year!! Dave
  14. I would agree with the ceramic coating, but there is no need to crack them. I assume he is talking aboout cracking or cutting between each tube to seperate them. On the older type headers the flanges were very thin and would warp and not seal. The ones for our trucks are 1/2 inch thick, I doubt you could crack them if you wanted to. Also the stock manifold gaskets do an excellent job of sealing and the stock bolts will work as well. Dave
  15. There were actually 5 all together thru the weekend but who's counting They all look good and as for the fastest thats up for debate but I do think the blue one with white stripes was the fastest SS at the track in Ky <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The Blue one with the White Stripes would have been the Fastest at the track if the Maroon Z71 (kysilverado) had not been there! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> See what I get for skipping the track...Darn I wish I could have stayed...I ought to be runnin with KYSilverado to defend blues honor anyway. Me and Popeye will have to show up at the track in force next year. Dave
  16. I was toying with the idea of relocating my coils but I haven't made any progress. I was thinking of moving them down low (like the F-body guys do) or on the inner fender. Maybe I need to think outside of the box and do something like they have on the LS2 crate motors and putting them on the passenger side on one bracket. I can't do it the way you have them cause of the supercharger. Dave
  17. Did you get a SES light? Could be a speed sensor, but it also could be the cluster itself. Those clusters are expensive, but there's someone over on Performancetrucks.net who repairs them. Dave
  18. I have a 70 SS396 4 speed that I'm doing a frame off on right now. It has factory A/C, cowl induction, 12 bolt posi with 3.31 gears, buckets, console, gauge package, vinyl top, Disc brakes. I don't have to original engine but I built a 454 with 10:1 compression, 291 LS6 heads and a L88 cam. Ought to be a real runner when I finally get it done. The rear body shell is rustfree and I have a pair of NOS fenders. If I can ever find some time I'll get er done...I have 90% of everything to put it together but my SS (truck) kind of absorbed the budget and my time I would have spent building the Camino. Later Dave
  19. To keep the cats you have a few choices. The first and easiest is to get some shorty headers as they bolt up to the factory pipes/cats($3-500). Second is dytatech long tube headers with cats/Y pipe($12-$1500). Next you could do some pacesetter long tube headers but they are not a bolt on...some fab work is required to keep the factory cats($400 + pipe welding). Finally the Arizona speed and marine headers keep the factory cats but you still need to have flanges welded to the cats ($800 + welding). Good luck Dave
  20. Having it dynoed shouldn't void the warranty. A pcm4less tune might, but only if they find out. If you are in warranty I would recomend paying the core charge and getting a 2nd pcm that way if you gotta go in for warranty work you could swap it out. BTW it would be extremely difficult for the dealer to know if you did anything, just make sure they don't flash a stock tune over it. Dave
  21. Mine is clunking right now too. I need to do something with it...I was thinking I remember somebody talked of drilling a hole in the outer shaft and putting a grease zerk in it so you can easily grease it whenever it clunks. I swear they should warranty something like that whenever it's a chronic problem. Stupid engineers and I've heard that the borgeson replacement isn't any better. If I decide to be a guniea pig I'll let you guys know. Dave
  22. I for one am sick of Overhaulin' doing cars for people who can obviously afford them. Right now they're doing one for Nick Lachey's brother. How about doing a car for some poor father of 5 with a car he's had since high school. I do like overhaulin normally but who cares about celebrity cars. I just wish they'd keep it real Dave
  23. That sux!!! Union job? Dosen't matter anyway...Our company is union and the union is as weak as a new born kitten. They continue to allow our jobs to be subcontracted out. The company probably wants to hire a kid and pay $7.50hr. What a bunch of corporate dicks. Sounds like your mom's boss had it out for her. I hope for the best for you guys. Dave
  24. K&N filter along with Castrol Syntec 10W30 every 3k miles. Mobil 1 diff fluid and autotrak II in the transfer case. Dave
  25. Another idea that has been mentioned before is that in a PCM4Less tune a lot of times the DTC for crankshaft position sensor relearn is disabled (no SES light). A miss at high RPM could be because you need a relearn done. Although I guess a code for random multiple misfire would be more likely if you needed a relearn. I didn't look to see where you are located but someone with HPT could do the relearn for you or the dealer will do it but it costs like $50. Good luck Dave
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