Bowtie70SS

I agree, call and tell them 20K with the extended warranty (dosen't cost them anything). The mark up on SUV's and trucks is sick. Leave them your number...I bet you'll get a call by the weekend. Dave

I get around 14mpg city/highway combined. On a recent trip I got 16.7 on the highway. My mileage didn't suffer any after I installed the radix except for the fact that I always wanna hammer it. Dave

Yep...I have broken 2. You gotta be especially carefull on WOT transitions. If you are at wot don't suddenly release the throttle at max rpms. The drag of the supercharger will snap off the tensioner. Also if you use too long of a belt it will bang against the stop and snap off. Every time it happens that's around $100 cause the tensioner dosen't come with the correct pulley you have to buy it seperate. Dave

Wow! That bites...I hope they don't try to blame you. I imagine with a leak like that the truck didn't run right. The only reason I say they would blame you is that seems to be par for the course when it comes to hi-perf parts. Good Luck Dave

Sounds like the cluster. A few other people have experienced a similar problem. Are you out of warranty? If so then be ready those clusters aren't cheap. Dave

Maybe I should ask the obvious, and I am not trying to be rude...If your dad can afford to buy you a truck why couldn't he buy another one for himself? Or maybe he wants to keep the Porsche in the family? Keep the SS! Dave

I drive about 70 miles round trip every M-F. I have been looking for a beater to keep some miless off of it. Dave

I would think that you could bring the lifter to the back side of the lobe and check the clearence between the valve tip and the rocker arm. Of course this would not be 100% accurate since the lifter will bleed some when the engine isn't running. Consider it similar to setting mechanical lifters...somewhere around .025 cold. I'm sure there is a tool to check this but without specifics like how much the block has been decked, the thickness of head gaskets used, and whether or not the heads have been resurfaced and lastly the base circle of the cam. Lots to add up and it's tougher because the old school small blocks had completely adjustable valvetrain. I can't remember for sure but I think adjustable valve train is available for the LS1 series engines. Good luck Dave

My first guess would be a bent pushrod or two. Have you taken a valve cover off and rolled the engine over to see what's happening yet? Assuming you can tell which side the noise is on start there. I have also heard horror stories about those darn oil pump O-rings, although your oil pressure dosen't seem excessively low. Keep us posted. Dave

I agree what a tool. The really sad thing is that our enemies love to get ahold of news stories like this one. They use it in their propoganda and to taunt and tease prisoners. I guess he didn't mind the fact that Uncle Sam probably paid for his college. I bet he didn't object to that. People never cease to amaze me, what a coward. Dave US Army 1992-1996

My original passenger side cat cost me an engine. I had long tube headers but I ditched them in favor of a set of stock headpipes with cats which I promptly hollowed out like Mr P did...cost me nothing. As an added bonus they will pass a visual inspection and since I am tuned properly I would think that I should have no problem passing emissions. Dave

I had no leaks from a set of used ASM headers and I reused the stock manifold gaskets and the stock bolts as well. On the old engine I had to helicoil one of the exhaust bolt holes...worked great no problem. You may have to end up doing the helicoil thing and it isn't that big of a deal as long as you can reach the bolt hole and since it is #1 you may be ok. Good luck Dave

I just got back from a trip and fully loaded with the 4 of us and Xmas presents I ran 74-75mph the whole way and got 16.5mpg. On the way out I ran 80-85mph and only got 13.5. Typically I get around 13.5-14 in a mixture of driving. My truck has a radix, exhaust, and a tune. I would think you would do a little better than that. One thing is that I always run 93 octane except when I go out west because just about all you can find is the watered down 91. Dave

You gotta program the PCM...assuming all is hooked up as in the instructions it should work fine. I have a 03 withe the 05 e-fans and the nelson harness and it works great. Later Dave

I would just put a new zerk in, if it dosen't work then maybe the grease gun isn't fitting well or is defective. Make sure to get it lubed because I had to replace one at 55k. Dave

Blower motor resistor? Although I did have speeds 1-4 when mine went tits up. Did you check the fuses? Maybe you could swap relays as well to rule that out. Dave

No fake...it was warm all week and we woke up Sunday morning to snow. The roads were frozen/drifted over and I had to drive 30 miles at 50mph on the snow covered road...you're right AWD rules! Dave

Hey all...just got back from Kansas tonight. My wife is from out there, a small town near Manhattan, Kansas where K-State is and about 40 miles from Ft Riley. Anyhow I drove the SS...no problems. I only got about 13.8 MPG on the way but 16.7 on the way back. The difference between 74mph and 85mph I think. I haven't had internet access for a week I was going crazy. I did see a black SS truck in Missouri on or aound 12/23 going east on I-70. I just thought I'd sign back in and wish everyone a happy new year and all of that jazz. Later Dave

Man you gotta love this site...it's just like work a swarm of smart asses(myself included). It sure did make a difference in my steering shaft though no more clunking. Dave

DO NOT DO THIS. what your thinking but tranny fluid has a flash point and oxy will reach that easily. your asking for a new truck this way. a quality socket and long wrench is key. if your off center or start to turn at a tilt your all done, and it will need to be extracted (ie destroyed). One trick i used is to use an air hammer and slide it arround slowly, but thats after it's stripped out. all the trucks have this problem. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Here's the thing...you can boil water in a paper cup on a open fire. The cup won't burn till the water is gone. What I'm saying is that you would have to pretty much heat up all of the fluid in the pan to the flash point before you had a fire and provide it with enough oxygen to ignite. My drain plug seemed to be made of pot metal and it rounded off with a 6 point easily. I welded the nut on there and it got cherry red when I welded it no problem. I guess you gotta do whatever works or pay somebody if you don't feel comfortable. Dave

Are you trying to say I jacked my truck off?? Now I just feel dirty. It sure has F'd me a few times. When you take the bolt out you move the part that goes thru the firewall in towars the column and back out towards the steering box a few times. This apparently redistributes the grease that is already in there. I'll have to try and get you a pic tomorrow or Fri. Dave

Mine has a black mark on it from the crossmember but no damage. I added airlift technology helper bags to the rear to keep it from bottoming along with ground force drop shocks. I have belltech drop leaves which allow for 2-4" of rear drop and mine is between 3-4. Dave

I was looking around online and came across an interesting fact. GM no longer replaces steering shafts or greases them. Techs are instructed to take out the bolt that holds the upper and lower shafts together (under the hood near the brake booster) and pump the inner shaft in and out a few times. It is very important that you do not rotate the steering wheel with the shaft disconnected or you can damage the air bag system. I did this on mine and presto no clunking. It took like 5 minutes. The theory is that the grease on the splines will be redistributed and stop the clunking. I'll be damned if it didn't work. Anyone with the annoying clunk and no warranty or with no time to take it in should do it even if it only lasts 10-15k miles it was free and quick. Dave

One thing I can think of is the parking brake shoes. If the brake pads look ok then I'd say it's the parking brake shoes. Dave

I haven't had that problem on my SS, but in past experience it is one of 2 things. Either loose TC bolts or a cracked flywheel/flexplate. The only other thing could be if somehow a rock or something got in there. Unfortunately it's hard to see a cracked flexplate till you get the trans out. Good luck Dave