SS_bnoon_SS

I haven't laughed this hard in a long time Steve! We need a list of funny posts that would normally not be shared, but are just to damn funny to keep to ourselves. This post, my "Gold Bond foot powder on the balls" post, the backpack slasher post... I'm sure there have to be others!

Yup, that's where it is. Thanks!

saaaaaaweeet!!!

Hummmmmm, not sure if HPT has something like that or not. I guess I get to go ask a question over on their forums. It's not something I've heard of before...

Are you talking measuring resistance on each one with a meter? Or something else??? By the way, it's only a PITA when the engine is hot and you have to wait because of fire risk. With a couple times' worth of experience, I can do injectors on these trucks in about 20 minutes or less. Super easy. Yup, double and triple checked. When you lube the O-rings with petrolium jelly they seat right in no problem. No fuel leaks on top, no air leaks on bottom.

Like very little about it, hate the way it sits with the wheels "tucked", hate the wheels themselves, interior is drab, engine bay is unbalanced amount of chrome to color... Don't get me wrong, there are Camaros out there that I like, but this one just looks wasted to me on many different levels. If I won the car in a contest, I would ask for the cash equiv. instead.

Came on the other night. It started flashing right after I started it, then stayed on solid.

That reminds me, Hey Chris, did that guy send you the pics yet from Saturday night?

Don't worry about what model, just get a 16 or 18 mm oil pan plug (I can't remember the pitch though). Take an O2 with you or have them pull one from the shelf to check the threads to make sure they match. Your 03 SS does not have EGR, so just leave the plug in there and you'll be fine.

OK, I added the 42# injectors a week or so ago and at the end of last week I got a check engine light. Checked it out and it's a random misfire code. I also noticed that at idle, bank 1 is trying to add 3-4 msec of pulse width and it goes higher with increased RPM (loaded or free revving). I checked for air leaks in the intake, didn't find any. Prior to this, all fuel trims were less than 1 and O2's were spot on. I'm thinking I have a bad injector on bank 1 since they were used. I'm thinking of changing the banks with injectors (the 4 from bank 1 to bank 2 and vise versa to test). The problem should move to bank 2 if I'm right. Thoughts?

Oh yeah, that would for sure happen to me if I ever had to barf on a plane. Does anyone have a wet-nap?

Just don't use the TB cleaner to clean the MAF, rather, use a residue free electric contacts/sensor cleaner. CRC makes a good one that you can pick up at almost any parts store.

Congrats Cory! Murdered black SSS FTMFW!!!

Hummm, that laptop would do nicely with some real time HPTuners running on it. Might have to get one from ebay...

If you pull the butterfly and polish it, less gunk sticks to it. Even without a full P&P job it's worth it.

The OBX long tube headers are by far the EASIEST headers I have ever installed on ANY vehicle. No special tools needed and no removing other obscure parts needed either. I dropped both sides down from the top and only lifted the truck to get the old pipes off and then again to put the new mid pipes on. It's a freaking cake walk.

Yes actually, it's sitting in the garage.

I quit doing them for a while because I just didn't have the time. But I guess I'm not really doing much now... I'll PM you some info.

It used to be that the file extension was not valid for this board for a regular HPT file, but you could still zip it and attach it as a zip file. I don't know what your problem is on the HPT forums, never had a problem attaching one over there. Good luck 'tard.

Agreed. I'm going to shoot another video with a closeup on the gauges during a normal drive, then rip it a few times to show the difference. Basically the same drive as in the first vid with a closeup of tach/speedo to give you a better idea of what the stall is doing in both situations.

I did the first 3.5 minutes to show how a 3000 (3200) TT series Yank will handle daily driving without much trouble at all. A lot of topics have come up with people thinking a 3000 just won't work for DD and it's just not true. Now the ST series Yank is looser at low throttle settings and would make a lot more trouble for someone not willing to put up with low speed "herky jerky". It's a normal tri-pod. 2 legs down to the floor, one up on the seat. Strapped down with the center seatbelt on the rear leg, and with a small ratchet strap down to the bottom of the front seats. It's really solid! Not with the new 295's on there. My old 275's spun just a bit on a flat/straight launch. They were not only narrower, but the were shorter as well in the 275/45/20 size. So that was "cheating" and I don't count it. EDIT: Also, just to mention to 12'srock, I didn't forget about the vid. I went to get the gauge closeup this morning and the camera batteries died. I should have it shot this weekend though.

Man, after seeing the size of Mr P's, I have cooler envy.

Sorry, Shaner doesn't remove the front half of the throttle bar, which is where most of the improvement in flow area comes from. And his prices!!! Sheesh.

This is the TT3000 Yank, which is a 10.5 "stock type" converter. I had it restalled to 3200 when it was cut open to be cleaned. 1-2 shift at 6200 2-3 at 5900 if I remember right RPM drop I'm not exactly sure, never measured it. I know Yank says something like 1900 RPM if I remember correctly, but I guess we'll see for sure on my next vid!

A higher stall converter lets the engine rev up a bit to get into the power band before the truck moves. The revs also don't drop as much between shifts to keep the engine in it's power band. You can think of it as revving up a stick car/truck before letting the clutch out.