SS_bnoon_SS

Typically around 160-170 with the highest so far at 185-190 bucking 30-40MPH headwind for a 3 hour drive home. This is with a slightly larger than stock 4 pass half inch tube style cooler that I got from Ebay. The fin measurements are roughly 14" by 8" or so if I remember right. Can't remember the BTU rating on it.

At the most they could pull the E clips and pull it off of the end of the pin without pulling the trans. Should be no problem at all on a lift. Some mechanics just don't have common sense if it doesn't follow the manual EXACTLY. That's the difference between a "parts changer" and a "mechanic".

I second Linkin Park, but I'd rather have it be "Given Up", or the Seather suggestions do it for me too. Bad ass trucks need a bad ass song, nothing hair band rock or alternative will do SSS's justice.

Yeah, I just didn't have time to adjust the camera and make another run. I want to be able to set my WOT shift points and need to see the tach for that too. Maybe tonight after work.

Loaded it to youtube for those that don't support apple products or plugins.

Purdy cool!

Hummmmm, works for me here on 3 different machines. Are you timing out or what? It's a .mov file, so you need to have quicktime loaded. It takes about 2-3 minutes for me to load the video here...

Wish I would have been able to go for the end of the tour as I had originally planned. Losts of high dollar rides that go on that tour that are so fun to hang with. I couldn't even make it to Ames last night as they were working us like dogs to get customers' phone and data network equipment out of flooded/flooding areas.

Video posted in the pics/vids section.

I had a TB stall and it wasn't enough. The Yank TT3000 is great and drives normal, just like the TB stall, until you go past about 1/2 throttle. I had mine restalled 200 RPM higher when they opened it up to clean it out/inspect it after my salvage yard trans failed. Here, I do a few minutes of normal driving, then near the end a few quick blasts. http://www.bnmotorsports.com/3000_stall.MOV

I had the TB stall, a TT3000 Yank, and now the Yank restalled to 3200. I can say that the TB stall is a good budget minded mod, but the Yank TT3000 is just that much better than the TB and worth EVERY PENNY!!! I can never recommend a TB stall over a Yank for a NA SSS after having driven both, especially with the work involved to remove replace the trans to get it installed. If you're boosted with a roots style blower, a TB stall is a very good match because your extra low end TQ will stall the TB a little higher (though a Yank 2600 or other aftermarket 2600 will have better components and heat resistance). Around town driving/mileage is very similar with both, but the extra stall speed of the Yank TT3000 when you put your foot in it is just AWSOME!!! Even with the stock cam the 3000 is a huge improvement in fun factor. GET ONE!!! If I remember, I'll try to shoot some video of normal driving with my Yank over lunch today, then maybe a short blast to show the high stall.

http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.ph...p;hl=power+tour A few people replied before. I planed to run to Lincoln and cruise through the weekend. I can't long haul because I used up to much vacation time being sick this year already, but at least I can party at the end of the tour in Madison. EDIT: I also posted a few times on Hot Rod's forums and a lot of long hauler's will be hitting Hooters as they roll through Des Moines area before going up to Ames. Should be a good time there too.

I was putting it together in my mind and was thinking around the same price. Be sure to keep us updated with pics as you move along!

Zip your config and post it so that someone can take a look. Sounds like you've got something set wrong.

It's actually not that bad. Guessing 3-4 hours on a frame jig and replace the front clip with Roush/Saleen aftermarket panels. Rockers look straight, which means the front towers should be fixable... I would have went for it at 2700 too. If it bent the front suspension it will be a little more, but not really bad at all...

Anyone know which insurance lot it's going to be at? I would love to find a C6 in need of a 408 swap!

From the angle of your driveshaft, it almost looks like you put in a shim backwards. I lowered mine 2" with shackles and it's not even close to the angle you're showing.

I've got a set of Yokohama Geolandar's that are about 2 years old. I kept them for my winter set when I got my new Grabbers. The Yoko's perform well in summer with good traction and ride, and do very well in winter too. Tread wear has been good too with over 23000 so far and I'll use them this winter and maybe next winter too.

We're getting hit pretty bad around here too with rain, but it's the states/towns to the South of us that are getting all of our major flood waters (for now at least). The rivers keep rising and the sump pump is keeping up (so long as the power stays on), but for now at least we're dry. All I've heard of around here so far are a few low laying roads flooded, some minor street flooding from backed up storm drains, and sump pump or power failures flooding basements. I pray that it doesn't get as bad as the pics you've shown. Good luck man!!!

Doesn't really have to be a lowered shock on the front when you run spindles because the shock mounting points remain the same length. The rears I would measure before installing to be sure you won't bottom it out and end up with something bent or broken. If the leafpacks are 2", you should be fine, but 3 or more I'd look at a lowering shock set (or relocating/welding mounts).

If you're using spindles, no need for them as the tie rods stay pretty level. If you're dropping by lowering the torsion springs, then you may want a set. Mine was a little "darty" (lowered front by keys) until I dialed in 3/32" to 1/8" toe out, so I didn't go for the flip kit.

That's some clean engine porn right there! Kicking ass and taking names Chris!

Ouch, did you pay their retail price? I've found them 80 to almost 100 dollars cheaper elsewhere for the adjustables...

OBX Stainless is the only way to go in salty winters. Coated mild steel is going to rust out far before stainless, and they're going to cost more than the OBX ones too. I would suggest an LT1 wire set for the two plugs near the firewall on the driver's side though.

How 'bout now? Do you have vids now? Now? How 'bout now? Got any vids yet? Soon? How soon? Hopefully soon... How 'bout now? Patiently waiting.