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To get the pipe length thing worked out, you can use lengths of exhaust tubing laying on jack stands and slip the mufflers on and let the truck idle. There's enough slop in most collectors that you can do this without much problem. Experiment with putting different lengths of pipes on before you weld anything in place. Muffler placement is critical to killing drone, just as much as total tubing length. I've used this method several times and never had a drone issue on any of my custom exhaust systems... er.. well, except the 70 vette with the unmuffled side pipes, but that was intended that way.

They still make cow feed out of the corn used in ethanol production, so it's effect on food grain is minimal. It's the first good thing to happen to grain farmers in a loooooooooooooong time. If it's anything like other grain related products, it will be cheaper here in Iowa anyway. So how about I sell you some for $3.50?

I could stand the weather there most of the time, that's for sure, but I'd miss the winters to much after a while (snowmobiler). I thought In-n-out was OK burgers, but their fries really sucked (mushy, to much salt EVERY TIME). Del Taco had good tacos, but who the hell puts french fries with Mexican food??? That threw me for a loop... chips and salsa, or at least something seasoned please... Oh, and a Subway meal combo was almost 10 freaking dollars!!!

I like HID too. 6k low and high for me! Just no DRL's.

Anything as heavy as, or heavier than stock, is terrible.

MPG has actually gone up from a tune optimized for 93 octane! I had 15.x and am at 17.7 right now over the last 6 tanks with mostly city driving! I think it's from the extra timing I'm able to run with full E85 in the tank.

Plus it gives you a little extra room to get a filter wrench on it too.

The car intake doesn't fit the truck water pump or belt routing without modification. I think that's why he was asking...

There is an underhood fuse if you want to get rid of the DRL's too. Pull the fuse and bypass the auto sensor and you have good old fashion manual headlights and nothing else.

No, you can't just put it in. You need a tune and possibly larger injectors. No special fuel pump needed, but a tank sensor would be a nice touch if you plan to switch back to regular gas now and again... Or some newer code from an '07 with a "virtual" alcohol sensor.

Neither, it's AKI (R+M)/2, an average of the two. E100 has an AKI rating of 116, RON 129, MON 102. I don't know the PON... TO MANY NUMBERS!!!

Now that's CRAZY talk right there! Have a good time with the TA build. I like the 30th almost as much as I like the 84 15th edition and the same year Recaro edition. Some sweet rides!

Not sure I like the red yet, but the build as a whole = HELL YEAH!

Yeah, only 3 stores come up in NY state (more are there, the site is slow to update sometimes). Hannacroix New Baltimore Travel Plaza Exit 21B Coxsackie West Babylon Vogelbilt 1200 Wellwood Ave Albany Campus Mobil Western Ave I can send you a barrel or two!

I couldn't get there in the first 25 minutes for the 85 cents per gallon part, but from 10-2 it's $1.85 a gallon at the Grimes, Iowa Kum And Go store. Saaaaaweeeeeeet!

Nice peppy feel to it, almost like when I added the cooler stat and/or on a cool morning when there's no heat soak and some extra timing. I added 2-3 degrees to the base tables and 1-3 on cruise areas above that. No drawbacks at all. Premium tune I was getting 15.7 MPG average (keeping a log, not using DIC) and E85 tune has been as high as 18.3, but is settling into a high 17's on average. EDIT: I just calculated it out, at current prices I'm saving over 5 cents per mile!!! I still can't go WOT though due to still running the stock injectors at 126% duty cycle at around 5000 RPM. No more of that until the 42's get installed. The real power increase will come when I run my L92 heads at 11.2:1 compression on E85. Depending on where you get it, E85 can carry an octane rating of 100-110. The stuff I run is 105 I believe.

that is some sick shiz right there! I like the stitching on the end pieces near the vents the most I think.

Hummmmmm, if I get some time tonight I might give you a call. I need to check this out.

Unless the scratch goes through to the plastic or metal, the most that would need to be done is a little air brush work. Don't worry about it until there's something to really get upset over. I mean, the guy was up front about it... That already makes him better than about 1/3 of the guys out there.

I hate DRL's all together. Took the fuse out and haven't looked back.

Clearcoat tends to peel and/or fade/yellow with age. I would rather wipe down my wheels at every wash and polish them a couple of times a year than have to worry about yellowing/fading of clearcoat. I've got two sets of the Centerline rotory forged wheels and they stay polished pretty dang well, even through daily driving in midwest winters.

Enjoying $2.57/gallon E85 and 18 MPG. Get a tune if it's available in your area.

Not a totally bad looking truck, but they didn't set the JC Whitney catalog down quickly enough.

Yeah, the kicks don't work well in large trucks period, due to the more upright seating position (compared to an average car where kicks work fine). Kevin, I agree with you on rear fill. I've sat in several winning IASCA cars over the years where the sound stage sounds flat and lifeless without any rear fill. To me, you bring in just enough rear sound level to start to pull the stage off of the windshield, in towards the center of the car, then back off just a hair. Rear fill can even take the place of a center channel in the right situation and/or car.

blah blah blah house blah blah I said it before, I'll say it again... I LOVE YOUR GARAGE!!! Look at all of that room!!!