dkkustoms

No problem. Just curious how much did you sell them for? Another member wants to sell me a set and I don't want to low ball him.

Just curious, anyone interested in any other colors than black for the annodising. Maybe red?

I plan to. I'm currently out of the country. As soon as I get back I'm going to be all over this. I'm also planning on making the brackets for using lowering spindles as well. It will probably be a little while before they are done. I need to figure out dimensions, make the CAD drawing, make a prototype (for lowered spindles), make a table jig for the CNC mill, make them, annodise them and then they'll be ready. I also want to say that I do have permission from Ray(supersub) to use his design. He is a stand up guy and would never rip off anyone that has help so many to get these brackets where they are today. I'm also hoping to be able to offer them at a lower price since I will be doing most of the work on these myself. My plan is to do a large batch of these so I can get a discount on materials and the hardware. That way I can lower the final sale price. I'm also working on a source for new GM calipers at a good discount as well, but that is iffy.

Find out what shipping is to a commercial address in 91605 and let me know. I may be interested.

Dude I know exactly what you are talking about. I get the same feeling.

Says who?

PM sent

LA County, Chatsworth (SFV), 91311

Directly from Ray Rotors are Baer # for the front are 6910962,6920962. the Rear are 6910526,and 6920526 Email him for prices.

Isn't rebar for concrete reinforcement .

Just got approval from Ray. Now just got to get back to the states and add to the "to do list"

I asked Ray but got no response and as to the rotor I'm in the same boat. I'm pretty sure its a Baer rotor though.

I pmed Ray about making more at the shop I work at but got no response.

Zippy is a good guy to talk to. Also check out his thread at the top of this forum. Lots of great info there too.

Nice attitude. Very mature. Thats exactly my point. You can see better but blind everyone else. Think about this though. You are driving down a two lane highway. An oncoming car can't see because they are blinded by your headlights, they drift into your lane and you get into a head on collision. Also, there is no correct way to aim headlights that have a HID conversion. The arc of a HID bulb travels front to rear. The arch of a standard light bulb is side to side. The reflector is not deign for that arch path. To each his own. Your opinion is "if anyone has a problem with them F*@K them". My opinion is that HID conversions should be banned. I do agree with 10zin and GHOST_PILOT. They aftermarket projectors light output is less than stock. Save your money or do a real conversion using a set of donor projectors and ballast into a stock housing.

Hey whitemax if you don't take the guy up on his offer I will.

Trick Magnet Smith Rockefeller

Ever been in front of a vehicle with non-stock HIDs and thought they had their high beams on? Most likely they had an HID conversion kit. The stock reflector housing is not meant to be used with a HID bulb. Thats why they are not DOT approved. You get more light but at the expense of every other driver being blinded by your lights.

Its just as everyone has explained. Take it to any decent mechanic. They hook it up to their scan tool, switch the key on and off a few times, start it, rev it up a couple of times and you are done. My mechanic did it for free while I was standing there and watching. Didn't even want to charge me so I bought everyone lunch.

How much for just the spindles?

Where are you located?

I agree with scooter and find yourself a new friend. 10 grand for a one off custom setup fully done front and rear with bags, lines, compressors, tanks, valves, etc is not totally insane but not a good deal by any means. If you were getting everything plumbed in stainless hard line big valves, fast compressors, multiple tanks, four link in the rear, digital controlled height adjustment it could easily cost that much. But anyway, to question one I'm not sure if there is something special with the upper control arms. They look like they are cast which some say can or can't be welded to depends on who you ask. I've done it with some success. To do it right I'm told you should heat the part up in an oven weld on it while its hot and return it to the oven and slowly cool it down. I tiged my spindle gusset on cold on my long travel Toyota pickup and have yet to have a problem. As to question two, its all how good and fast you are at fabricating and welding. I know guys that can weld fast but looks like crap and I know guys that weld beautifully but take forever. As to how much you need to remove, thats up to you and your design as well. I would recommend a triangulated four link as opposed to a straight setup with a panhard bar, not a pan head bar. Its less parts and no movement of your rear axle side to side. If you are dead set on a parallel setup check out Watts linkage setups. They not only look pretty trick but also keep the axle centered at all times like the triangulated four link. Sounds like you've got a pretty good assortment of tools. I also noticed you are in Hawaii. Talk to the guys at Chance Customs. They have already done exactly what you want and you might be better off letting someone else do your setup. Hope this helps.

BmanSS emailed me this when I asked he same question. Hey Eric, what i did was flip the 1-2 Accum piston and put a spring on the back side of 1-2 accumlator (big thing with 3 10mm bolts left rear in pan).A 1" to 1-1/4 " tall medium duty spring will work .what it does is preload the piston and take some of the travel out.if you still have the shift kit there may be one in it you can use.make sure it is big enough around to set down in piston an flat aginst the shift plate .Did you do the SK or a shop?if you didnt its an easy fix just dont over torque the bolts and be carefull not to break or unplug the 2 shift solonoids on the back trans, the pans has little to no clearance on and off unless u remove cross member/ TF case bracket or loosen exhaust if you dont have a spring ,go to a tranny shop and ask 4 a 125 accumulator spring.i think its white Hope this helps ,good luck

Copied from first post "Once the remaining brackets are sold,those who bought them will recieve the info needed to obtain those 15" rotors at there best possible pricing. You will not be required to buy them from me,you can call your local speed shop, or who ever can get you the best deal." Anyone get the info on the 15" rotors yet?

I thought about mass producing these as well since we have a CNC where I work but I don't think enough people have an ewp to make it worth it. Good luck though.