kelleyperformance

yeah we got rotors calipers custom brake lines pads, etc etc yeah you can get the GM/ACDelco pad sets (they do come with pins tho... but if your buying a new set of calipers 90% of the time GM stopped including the pics so... youll need them) OR you can get some Hawk pads (what we run on EVERYTHING), they come in HPS (a sport, hard biting, quick heating pad with street manners) or the ceramic Hawk pads which are like OE pads (less bite, less dust, NO noise). from that comment id think youd like the Hawk Ceramics John

oh bring that shit on son!!!! that would be one hell of a fire fight

i dunno theres always two sides like Dan said but... its been like 6 months!!! for a cap! and i dont care where you are, you can refund money from a cell phone on paypal. not saying this makes him a "thief" or a bad guy or anything.... but damn someone owes you an apology and some money back... thats just awful business.

lets just say the shorties dont do anything that youd see on a dyno (at least compared to the stock LQ9 manifolds)... so your basically going to get the same gain as if you went from stock to long tubes lol. we typically see (on stock 6.0's) about 35-45 WHP with a tune + LT headers only (with cats and cat-back). thats a nice gain if you ask me! the pacesetter headers are the cheapest and by far the most popular amongst GM truck guys here, but are not stainless and do not survive so well up in northern areas especially places that salt the roads. getting them ceramic coated helps a lot but still, you get the idea. they also dont sell bolt-on mid pipes, so an exhaust shop will need to weld them in. then you have dynatech, which are also popular but pretty expensive... nice product though, and they offer 100% bolt-on kits with and without cats. OBX is also very popular, its basically a knock-off of the older dynatechs just much much less $$$. there are a few other sets of headers for the SSS but those are the most popular/sensible. also keep in mind if your under 500 WHP or so, i definitely would stick to the 1 3/4" primaries headers. they will work better for your TQ curve (all the above mentioned headers come 1 3/4") John

looks good, especially in person. definitely has nearly no hot spots compared to many ive seen done... it was a good job this is one of our favorite mods too. actually cooking up someones LEDs on the desk right now

ive actually come find that with some of the "indicator" lights like the little yellow ones for fog lights, low fuel, etc- were constant positive power but switched ground... and the resistor on them (factory LEDs) was on the ground side... led only works in these spots if you wire it backwards

hmmm now you got me thinking... so anyone interested in a nice P1SC???

$1231 isnt too bad for calipers ill do a GP if there is enough interest and orders. that includes having them custom painted if youd like as well John

then you should be fine, i just wouldnt do it too often... it will be hard on your truck yes, but thats what it was made to do. you have the big 9.5" rear end on your truck since its a Vmax, and the axles/wheel bearings are huge on that- about the same as 2500HD. tires will be close to weight capacity but not over, and they rate them under what they can handle just to be safe. just be careful driving as the front end will have far less balance to it then usual with all that weight. truck wont stop too well bc front wheels will slide pretty easily like that if you lock up brakes

yeah just look around on the site, there are many people with 22" replicas. i have pics of them too if you want, mostly on other silverados but one is an SS

bump for a good deal i know the question was basically answered already. but thats the factory GM intermediate servo that comes in the 4L65e C5 03-up vettes and 05 C6 vette. if your truck is 07 or newer you already have this servo

you got a stock suspension setup? if so yes it will do it fine. ive had over 3000 lbs in 1500 trucks many times. if your on OEM suspension, it will just sit on the overload leaf so dont worry about hitting the frame... and obviously power is no issue lol

thanks for the kind words guys! im sorry i had to be the one to diagnose your tranny issues alex just think how good its gunna run with more boost and a non-slipping tranny! John

sir i highly recommend you DO NOT go back there LOL if its a locking TC like they all are (ok except maybe a 1982 monte carlo with a turbo 300 in it ) on these trucks, and it locks at any speed above roughly 50 mph (depends on tune) in 3rd and 4th gear stock... and any other aftermarket locking converter also locks at those same speeds... how can one locked transmission get worse highway MPG than the other??? its LOCKED, meaning the TC is doing NOTHING except locking the engine to the input shaft of the trans... so whether its a 4000 stall or stock 2200 stall... locked is locked city? oh hell yes you will suffer MPG big time for big stall speeds... but thats when the TC is actually doing its job multiplying TQ. so yes MPG city? absolutely you will loose efficiency worse with higher stalls. highway, or any constant speed driving above say 45-50 mph? NO its identical. unless of course they were planning on selling you a TH300 non-locking 80s torque converter

well then youd really like to look out my shop window right now, seeing as my SS is hooked up to a 32 ft. enclosed trailer with an 04 Cobra in it right now and yeah i didnt really notice anything behind me with 650 WHP and bags i honestly prefer towing with it then when i had an LMM Dmax, and it even ran 12s just no "lag" with a roots blower so towing is great. its not hard on the TC unless you have a tiny little single disc that belongs in a car i have a 298mm triple disc PI 2400 in my SS, it does just fine towing. tranny never sees a degree over 180 no matter what i do to it. and some heavier cars in the trailer im in 2-3 psi of boost the entire time im driving on the highway depends on the converter... not sure how a cam would do that tho why would adding torque hurt anyones towing?? people who tow should have no higher stall than say 2800 and should be a larger TC like OEM size or no smaller than 298mm... the TCC is the issue for towing, and heat if you have a stock trans cooler yes you will be in trouble. but thats what triple disc converters are for mine has more surface area than a stock truck TCC so towing is welcomed

thats a pretty good deal

they are larger better calipers yes but they do not bolt on to the trucks without a whole lot of money and a whole lot of someones time we have done a set on a truck as i posted above, so trust me i know this for sure lol. i can always sell a custom kit if someone really wanted ZR1 calipers but its more than a Baer 6S kit... having four rotors made 100% custom in 2 pc is NOT cheap. and the brackets have to be heavily modified or new brackets made. i pay maybe 5-10% less than you see them on ebay for. so really its not a huge difference... they cost me roughly $550-570 a pair. BUT maybe we can get the price down if we do a GP/group purchase i will send you a PM

no problem no they never came in blue that i know of... maybe you saw the ZR1 calipers or a set someone painted already

well yeah we have a kit here in stock in red. they also come from GM in yellow and silver (grand sport comes with silver, yellow came on certain editions of 427s and such). we can paint them whatever blue you need and still have the OEM logos/circles on the face of the caliper, or we can put whatever you want on the caliper (like silverado ss, etc). OR if dentguy still has his Baer 6S kit for sale, it was in ZR1 caliper blue... and damn near brand new. i was gunna buy them but i have BBK on top of BBK i dont need them- it was so i could be lazy and not have any down time changing my SSS brakes to match my paint scheme from red LOL. he wanted $3k i think which is about what youd have into a complete Z06 with brackets rotors calipers and everything... not to mention the Baer 6S has a NOTICEABLE larger swept braking area than the C6Z brake kits, they tend to "waste" a good part of the 15" rotors. i dunno if he still has them, but they are posted online here FS with pics.

you can run the 317s done CNCd and all, or if your staying NA you can get a set of 243s (LS gen 3 heads from Corvette, Camaro, etc) which have a smaller chamber to raise your compression a good bit. that would benefit you with a nice cam and some headers like mentioned. you can find 243s on the LS1tech forums and pt.net like crazy for some good money. for what your talking, any one of the headers made for these trucks will do just fine, its just a matter of money. the pacesetters are very popular as they are very inexpensive, but not stainless like mentioned... so if you get those make sure they are coated, thats important for several reasons... the OBX headers are good headers and popular, just a bit more money. dynatech is pretty damn similar like said to OBX but more money, but if you look hard online there are great deals on older new systems people never sold for dynatech that makes them cheaper than OBX sometimes. IMO a 3" collector and 1 7/8" primaries is totally unnecessary for a bolt on setup, even with a mild cam and heads you are not going to benefit from that other than loosing some low end toque to gain maybe 2-3 hp up top... (thats assuming you have a cam and heads... stock bolt ons there is no benefit over 1 3/4" primaries and 2.5" collectors).

it sounds to me like miller might be the shit... i dunno i am just deducting this from previous posts i am no expert PM him and get him to hydrocarbon a bowtie in that for you. if you run into problems or he cant do it, shoot me a PM we can get one made for you John

ive never seen a car short of lifted hoopdies that had 32" tires on them... i dunno if id call the stockers "car tires" LOL. from the second post above, it sounds to me like you proved your own point... YOU bought the WRONG truck from how you described it, i really think you purchased the wrong vehicle... it sounds like you want it to feel like a 2500 dodge truck on 35s. you can always lift the SS truck, but youd be killing your resale value and i dont think it will help you make too many friends in the sport truck community either... to each his own yes, but why modify a limited production sport truck to make it into a lifted "truck" truck truck? just get a "truck" truck truck and lift that. that way everybody wins! for example. i know what your saying, thats why we have an 05' Silverado 1500 on a 5" lift on 33" 20x12 billet wheels- if you want to drive something "higher" you can use that. you want to run 11s, tow 15,000 lbs, or haul more than a 2500 diesel than you take the SPORT truck SSS (yes it is clearly still a "truck" ) it will easily out tow or haul the lifted truck.

no, they are different... youd need different rotors, the brackets need to be heavily modified... we have done it but it took 1. custom 2 pc rotors and 2. heavy modification of the brackets, which isnt a great idea on a billet bracket like that... ended up making new ones. its possible, but for what it took you might as well have done a Baer kit it ends up cheaper anyways. plus its just as much swept area, and the 6S rotor is only .5" smaller than the ones we ended up making. to each his own though, this guy really wanted ZR1 brakes lol

we sell them, i could get a group buy price together... otherwise ebay has one of the better prices on the calipers (usually GM dealers who do ebay parts wholesale) and the rotors theyre isnt much price difference on those from what ive ever seen online... PM me for quotes if anyone needs it, I have a kit in stock at the moment John