kelleyperformance

good move loosing the brush guard and running boards

we get ours from a local guy down here. decent prices and good quality. Treadstone

i have owned what seems like almost every car, from an STi to an SL 65 to a Kodiak. i have never kept one more than 1 year excpet my SSS, i have not been able to sell it. IMO thats saying a lot since its put up against $100k cars and its the only one thats stayed my question is, if money is tight on this purchase why do you need an Intimidator? they are awesome but rare, and the regular SSS are hard enough to find in good shape. they are either beat to hell, have tons of miles on them, or are almost brand new and asking big money. just look for a regular SSS and put whatever it is you like about the Intimidator onto your SSS. there arent really many differences, just the headrests, emblems, bed wing, and different color grille. that wouldnt be a big deal to put onto an SSS. thats just my opinion

that has to be the worst quality picture i have ever seen thats sad, its a Cobra too

just for the record- as long as you have amber reflectors in your corner light housings (like OEM housings, mine as pictured are clear- no reflectors), run an amber 194 corner marker light (as seen in the pic on my truck)- switchbacks are NOT illegal. the law requires you to have 2 amber front reflectors, visible from the sides of vehicle, and an amber corner marker at night. as for signals go, yes they obviously have to be amber by law. but they are, thats the whole point of a switchback. this way people get the look they want and stay legal. if you just stick a white LED in your signal bulb, yes thats quite illegal and looking for a traffic stop. my high beams are not on in those pics, just looks that way. my lights are Phillips/Orsam slim 35w ballasts (high and low) with 5000k Phillips bulbs (trust me brand actually matters for color accuracy- the Chinese lights are NOT the temp they claim so they usually end up not matching). my fog lights are trailblazer SS projector housings with Phillips slim 35w ballast/4300k Phillips bulbs

damn shawn! i JUST got a new set of shoes for the JGP and now i see that 3rd raceline and i just made a mess that would look sick on a slammed black RCSB, right? HOLY HELL that clone RCSB looks clean! i love it, whered u find that? IMO your truck is too big to be on small tires like you had before- id stick with no smaller than a 31" OD, 31.5"-32" being ideal for your drop. just make sure the wheels you get are a decent offset, a little higher than typical and you wont rub at all 22s id run 305/40R22 24s id run 295/35R24 i have 24s on the SSS but really want a set of 22s now, i just think they look better on an SS. dont get me wrong i love my wheels and 24s (if the right wheel) can look good on our trucks.. just my .02

pics of it on the truck? some things might be identifiable but not all... torsion keys for example will be impossible to tell really from pics as they all look the same, unless its a company who powdercoats theirs... spindles yes, take a picture of the back side of the wheel (steering knuckle, where control arms bolt to wheel side) and i could tell you if its a drop spindle or not. if you have no lift access just turn wheels all the way one way, and reach under truck to take pic. the rear- take a picture of the leaf springs (get whole spring in pic if possible), pic of the front of leaf and rear of leaf where they attach to truck. then obviously make sure you get all 4 shocks in the pics so we can try to identify those as well does she/he know what they spent on it?? the most common way to lower these (when drop is 2"/2" or less) seems to be the cheap way... turning down torsion keys in front (no parts used so nothing to see in pics) and using a 2" drop shackle in rear- this being the case because you can do a 2" drop for less than $100 if you do it yourself...

you can get the 3157 lights from vleds, they work great and are bright. we use superbright, but they arent as bright (lol irony) and are a lesser quality. i know the DRL is a 4114, but it is basically the same light as a 3156/57 just a different filliment in an attempt for the light to last longer. if you put a 3156 into a DRL it would work fine just blow out fairly sooner than a 4114. i have a set of 6000k VLEDs in my DRLs for a year or so and no dead LEDs yet. i had a problem with other brands blowing individual LEDs out from being on so often.... thought i had a pic of the DRLs but they are literally the exact same bulb as these in the pic, just on the inside of housing not outside/turn signal. hope this helps! those are actually the same bulbs but 3157 switchback 6000k/amber LEDs in the signals... those compliment nicely with HIDs

how many miles? how does the truck ride? im assuming its 100% stock suspension, including OE shocks? its hard for me to tell over the internet... your welcome to PM me or text me (calling is fine just text first, voicemail is chaos lol) and i can try and help you figure it out- i know how crazy these kinds of noises will drive me lol... but heres what you can do now- the way you described the sound of the noise sounds EXACTLY like an intermediate shaft issue... are you sure its not coming from the steering column? i know this sounds crazy but the i-shaft clunk has been complained to me by customers as coming from each and every direction you can imagine... its a tricky noise to determine sometimes. is it when you go over ANY bumps and every bump? the i-shaft will make noise every time when: you are turning (not full lock, about a half a turn back from full lock) and travel the front suspension over a bump, you hit a deep, jolting bump primarily on one or both sides of the front (ie pot hole), and will also make noise when the truck travels over small bumps at high rates of speeds (it will "clunk"). this problem was actually a bulletin on C/K fullsize trucks (shoulve been a full recall but GM is cheap) and almost 95% of the trucks up to 07 will need AT LEAST one i-shaft in its lifetime. if yours has never been changed, this is probably your noise. if this doesnt sound like the noise at all, we can move on to the next possibility

and here is all i could find from RX... this is a good shot of the back of the oil cap breather; you can see how the check valve is installed. ^^these are single valve CC's for N/A and roots blower motors. for the centrifical blowers and turbos, youd want the dual valve catch cans

ok so i found a few examples... ill put up the RX pics for now, they are pretty helpful. heres a few of where we mount the CC typically, and a custom PCV setup off an LS6 i built last year heres where the CC is mounted on the JGP truck, as well as 90% of the trucks we have done. i know its not a good pic, but if you look to the right of the alternator, right above the P/S resivour you will see it. hoses run as described- from driver valve cover to CC, from CC to J-tube/manifold- heres the LS6- no CC on it in these pics, but its basically the same as trucks. this engine has custom valve covers on it that did not come with oil cap or any fittings/breathers- this is why it seems reversed. i did it with fresh air/breather on driver side and suction on passanger side, opposite of how GM has the LS PCV setup- this was JUST for space reasons, its no gain or benefit- as long as one side pushes and other pulls (fresh in/bad out) the system works the same. LS6- fresh air/breather in driver/left valve cover, evacuation/vacuum from passanger/right valve cover AND valley cover to PCV port on manifold (valley and VC are tee'd into each other before manifold- no reason to cap one off if you have both and heres a "big boy" PCV setup this car makes 980 RWHP on pump gas @ 89 degree heat. it needed a larger setup- the two CC's are right behind the fuse box on pass. side, they are black. this setup wouldnt be ideal for 99% of people on here but hey its a nice setup this is actually using 3 cans, 3/4" braided hose, and a GM A.I.R. pump on a Hobbs switch to suck all that blow-by from 1k HP out

yeah we will take plenty of pics when we install Taylor's CC setup (907blownSS), should be here this week. i may have some pics underhood of my trucks but not great as ar as a PCV diagram goes... let me go through the shop pics see if i cant whip up some educational photoshop pics that sounds right/good so far! as for check valve on fresh air side- it should let air IN and not out. the valves that RX uses are plastic PCV valves that are siliconed into the hole made in oil cap from underneath, with the 90 deg elbow from valve broken off so it fits inside cap. ill take a pic of it when i do Taylor's truck

wow those pics came out great! looking forward to when i click the next pics thread by you and its actually your truck btw i think we share some of the same problems/issues with cars...

wow looking great brother! cant wait to see the final product one of these days my lazy cripple ass is going to shave my handles that i made plates/wiring for 2-3 years ago

holy hell is that really you?!??!?!!??

we make a 3.5" cat-back and before anyone else asks, no we did not loose any TQ or HP from it is it too much for a primarily stock LSx? absolutely. it was intended and designed for use on 500-750 RWHP builds, but works just fine on 480ish WHP. we have even used this system on a stock LS3 vette with same day dyno testing- gains were seen, no losses anywhere in power bands. yes the LS3 flows a notable amount of more air but still is far from that HP level above... as long as you use the proper size headers and high flow cats, this setup works great. this air velocity as described below is largely related to the header-post cat area being most important. this is good info, but there should still be a small amount of back pressure at the tail pipe if its setup as described. yes back pressure is exactly what said above, yes its usually thought of as bad... but every setup does need a small amount or TQ will suffer as we all said

ah now look what ive done... sorry for my total lack of observing time/date stamps

^thats a great book. Dan really knows his stuff... ive read it before, can never have too much info

not necessarily. a 2.5" true dual system with the described dual in/dual out, works great. we use that setup quite often. that muffler you described has a built in X, so you dont need one on that setup. to give an example, my SSS currently has true dual 2.5" mandrel bends, no cats, into custom X, into separate round 4" magnaflow 'resonators', into separate oval magnaflow mufflers, then dumped behind axle. it makes about 600 WHP, and the system works great on it. btw, even a "true dual" system should be running an x pipe. running one does not make your system NOT a "true dual", it is very important in a dual setup, as it helps equalize the exhaust gases in each bank equally. you do not want more backpressure in one side... not good

if you cant find one, and come up empty- we would be happy to build you one exactly to how you picture it or how we'd picture it from your ideas of what your looking for. this is a good size portion of the shop here, going out and finding exact, usually rare vehicles people want, even doing ground-up builds on them as well (before you take delivery). i sent you a PM, im happy to look around our sources for the truck your looking for. in this case, it wouldnt be cloned already (highly unlikely) but at least if you do it this way, you can be sure that the work was done properly and youd have a warranty

its actually dual 2.5" mandrel from headers to cats, cats to custom Y (dual 2.5" in/single 3.5" out). since these systems are so free-flowing, its good to keep the diameter of the piping down so you dont loose any TQ or low end HP. the amount of back-pressure needed per each setup is a sensitive subject that is usually overlooked. this system will easily support more HP than 95% of people are producing, yet still works great with bolt on vehicles

this has no badges, but not by choice. the truck was maybe 30 minutes out of the booth lol, obviously i had to remove emblems to paint. i painted them and put back black i agree with what seems to be the general notion- i would never debadge my SS or JGP, but i usually like to debadge everything else, like our old shop F150. sry i thought i had pics of the sides and rear with black emblems but i guess i have not taken any new pics of the truck in awhile

i will give you that... my seat in the JGP is way different position than the SSS. my seat is all the way back in both trucks, (bottom, not holding myself up with steering wheel... ) and its not great in the RCSB

yeah thats why the intake tube works well, but sometimes on higher HP builds some light suction through the throttle body can pull oil through. so you can run a filter on the oil cap, but i would only use one with a built-in check valve that only lets air IN not out. you can find that at revxtreme.com (RX), they have check valve oil caps (use TBSS as application, they dont list SSS)

i love my JGP truck, not crazy about the space but its a great truck. i would have no reason not to consider it just as nice as the SS would be normally, and its certainly faster lol. i like the reg cab look better too IMO, and how it drives