kelleyperformance

yeah those can be reused several times... and are HARD to get out

sounds good to me. just got to make sure we have the goods for some BBQ... we love using our grille in the shop lol andrew's Cobra clutch plate - perfectly safe for eating on

oh ok, then thats a good deal for someone yeah those MAFs are about $75 alone (wholesale)

i voted stainless, assuming your grille surround is all black like in those pics (its chrome in your sig). if its still like your sig, id do the black IMO i just love the brushed/stainless look on the black trucks w/ black surround... there is such a thing as too much black

he said it perfect... but from what i gather from your post, sounds like your not looking to get TOO heavy into the mods as its your DD and you dont have many mods currently either. for your current setup, and BEST way cost wise and DD-friendly is the TBTC (trailblazer torque converter) these work great in the AWD trucks, are much cheaper than most all aftermarket TCs, and dont really affect DD manners or ability much at all. this is a very very popular mod. if you want to spend a tad more money and still dont plan on going too nuts with the truck (bolt ons like intake, exhaust, tune, etc are all ok- i mean huge cam, boost, etc) then the Yank TT2600 is a great unit for lightly modded AWD trucks. the torque multiplication ratio goes up, stall goes up just enough for a nice kick-in-ass launch but without killing your MPG... they run about $450 last time we bought one from Yank (i think)...

what sizes pills you have in there? to me, it sounds like you either are using way too much fuel in your tune in the engine (you on stock injectors? stock tune, etc?) running rich to begin with... your nitrous system fuel jet is way bigger than what you think it is/supposed to be... or a combination of the two. taking it off the valve on the rail is fine. and a 50 shot on a stock truck should work ok, but thats a hefty drop in pressure. double check the actual pill/jet size on the fuel nozzle, and im curious about your tune/injector setup as of now

what part of the US you need? they come in like North East, etc... i have a few around here

id buy it from you if i didnt have a pile of those next to me on my desk (well not his MAFs, our 100mm MAF but close enough lol) GL with the sale, these are a great upgrade especially for the boosted guys who arent SD. if you dont mind me asking, what does he charge new for those? im guessing that one is used?

no you heard right lol... nice looking cars but not the best track record for problems on those model R's... nice trade up tho!

yeah your fine with the 75W-90 synthetic in both front/rear. as for pan- no you dont need to take any exhaust parts off. the only things are that stupid shield that honestly can be left off, on the right side by the servos... take that off. then once you get all the bolts off- leave two or so on one side, slowly loosen them and let the pan tilt down on the other side and fluid start to drain. this way you can get as much out so when you pull last bolt off you dont drop the pan/make huge mess... only other thing to look out for is the shift cable bracket on the left side, but it doesnt need to be removed. normally you can just tilt pan down on right side and slide out between the bracket and case- if you have trouble, just take a pry bar and gently pry the bracket away from the trans case an 1/8-1/4" or so and the pan will come right out

yeah theres a very simple explaination for that... they are a lot more money lol. i prefer them on these trucks as well, for several reasons. they are just harder to find (usually not sitting in your average wheel store, etc) and twice the money. you still have one of the best looking sets of wheels on the SSS IMO... well, you did... you sold them right>?

thanks for the positive feedback i have always wanted to do a RCSB for the shop, i just hope i dont get to carried away lol thanks will id hope you like it, it bares a striking resemblance to this one truck i saw somewhere... just not quite as mean, and much less Canadian sure. hell, you can drive it and take me for a ride if you spend enough money im just kidding, but seriously your welcome to

that is one random group of parts lol... ill take a throttle body or manifold off your hands. we can always use one of those

nooooo paint the cladding OFF the truck

like the title says, as along with many of our new products we are offering online now- we are doing LED interior conversions! they are available in any color (although different color LEDs produce different light outputs). the most popular colors are blue, red, and green. we have also done a white conversion before, and it has a nice clean OE look but crisp and clear. we use SMT high flux (surface mount LEDs) in most of the applications, which keeps from creating that "hot spotting" that typically comes with these LED conversions. i will have more pictures of a few trucks with the conversions later this week or next week in the video/photo section, for now the only pics i have on my PC are these- i will post pics of my SSS with all blue on EVERY light in the truck (even changed out little yellow indicator lights, like heated seat level, recirculation on a/c, etc). if you were to have this done- the way this would work is you mail in your components to have the LEDs installed. we offer a 24 hr turn around time if you need them back ASAP. otherwise, typical return is 48-72 hrs. we will be doing a core exchange if this service picks up on the forums. that way there would be no down time PM or text me for prices, as each truck is slightly different varying by options and such. NOTE: -the truck in the pics below DOES NOT have an LED cluster or steering wheel controls; JUST the a/c and radio are LED conversions in this picture- more pictures will be posted soon John

every time i try to get a DD, i like my SSS so much more than most anything ive ever driven that i just end up driving IT 5 or 6 days of the week.... and soon realize that whatever i just bought is now my "weekend" car lol. i cant be the only one with Yugo weekend car, right? no but seriously- im with stictches on this. as a mechanic, i see a fair number of those V6 F-bodies... i find them less reliable than the LSx F-body. they are kind of a pain in the ass to work on too, if your DIY. those crown vics are not bad if you need a car strictly for cost efficiency, DD, and practicality you cant really beat it. they were built and designed to have the shit pounded out of them for way longer than a car is supposed to (just dont get an old taxi! thats the worst case scenario lol). the CV is a pretty good car (the police pkg one), and has enough torque to be stupid in too btw, mid12s- i thought you were joking about his signature. i thought it was fairly clear what he does for a living

yes off the top of my head i do believe those run the whole length as well. you pretty much need to cut all the brackets to length

i know the issue, my keyboard is still messed up from that white RCSB clone i saw earlier on the billet wheels lol yeah, i like the OE wheels but i wish they were 22". i really wanted to do a 22" with this drop, but more importantly the JGP wheels wont take a BBK, not even remotely close. the spokes are like 2 3/4" fat/deep its crazy

no it would not move, the suspension is still technically loaded by the spring even when the tire is off the ground. unless your iron man, no sir it would not be normal for it to move about the shaft- i have also seen replacements take a shit too many times... we use a Dorman shaft. they are redesigned specifically around what caused the GM shafts to fail... i wish i could just drive your truck and tell you what it is but that would be quite a drive for one of us lol. have you checked all the body mount bolts? the trans mount bolts, front diff mount bolts, etc? ive seen trans mount nuts come loose and the tranny would hop off the crossmember an 1/8" or so over some bumps and make a rattling noise... im kinda out of ideas here without being able to physically diagnose the truck

i never took any pictures of the JGP truck, so i snapped a few shots after i got back from home depot last night (ignore the bulk box of 8 ft T12 florescent bulbs in the bed ). the truck is far from finished, we still have a lot to do. this is not the trucks final stance/ride height, and most likely this isnt the color the truck will be for much longer... anyways, the truck is an 05 JGP #335, 5.3 L auto; had every option except the Baer brakes and the suspension. so it has the interior, Radix, Corsa Touring, etc etc. so far all we have done is the drop (in pic its a 4.5"/5", will end up as a 4/5 prob), 3.0" pulley, 60lb injectors, volant CAI, dynatech LTs, 22" SSS replicas, C6Z brakes/2pc Baer rotors (rear BBK sitting on the work bench... lol), and basic things like a full system, HIDs, etc. i still have to paint the door handles, shave tailgate, paint mirrors, paint bowtie, paint tail lights, finish suspension, install rear BBK, and then all the performance goodies sitting around that need to go in... LPE GT2-3 cam, KP 806 heads, 90mm LS3 TB, 2.85 pulley, KP air-water aux tank and heat exchanger, run a dump pipe off the existing Corsa, install Tru-Trac diff, build the trans, F/R sway bars, full poly suspension bushings, remove hitch/spare, and other stuff im sure i forgot. i started the LED interior conversion, so yes i know my gauge cluster does not match the rest of the truck i havent done the cluster yet lol. so what do you all think- good direction so far? John

mike aka zippy is a VERY knowledgeable guy and great tuner, not to mention a nice guy. like said above, he is really busy. im sure he did not ignore you and if that was going on he wasnt aware of it. like he said, you cant leave him messages there are too many to sort through in a reasonable amount of time. ive known him for years and he has always been reliable, you just have to know how to get ahold of him. hopefully you stick with him for your tune, it would be worth your confusion/wait lol

hey whats all this 24s ruin a performance truck talk? mine seems to run 11s on them just fine yes you can stagger the wheels/tires and yes you can have a SLIGHT difference in tire OD... currently i have 295s on the front 305s in the rear. i think its about .3-.4" OD difference if i remember correctly. the issue here is not about widths, just about overall diameter. you can run a 16x4 in the front and 26x20 in the rear for whatever reason as long as the OD comes out the same or very close

so if you lift suspension off the ground and unload it, you tried to move the wheel up, down, left, right, etc? if you had a ball joint issue youd hear/feel a click 90% of the time when you put some ass into the tire (hand on top and bottom of wheel, push/pull back and forth). if you have NO movement, and no float or play in steering when going over bumps, its most likely either a bad shock or the i-shaft again. the way you just described when the noise occurs fits perfect with i-shaft.... what did you replace it with? was it a current GM shaft, aftermarket shaft, etc? you can always pull the shocks off, and press the shock into the ground all the way then let it come back up. if its easy, sticky in some areas, or doesnt come up (or comes up with absolutely no force- shouldnt "shoot" up but should steadily come up and with decent mechanical resistance).

standard fuel pressure on the returnless fuel systems in our trucks is 58 psi. your model year is a return fuel system, and OEM pressure regulator is spec'd at 56 psi so your right on where you should be

the Delco batteries are good batteries, but for the money i would get an Optima. i like the yellow top, stock electrical system or not. being a deep cycle, they can take being discharged/charged/jumped many more times than a standard battery. i have them in stock here and sell quite a few of them, and run them in all my own vehicles. the ones in the SSS are going on 5 years and are both still as good as the day i installed them. never had to jump the truck once. they are more money, but to me its worth it considering they have a longer lifespan. but if you dont want to spend the extra money, nothing wrong with the Delco battery.