rico750sxi Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 Doing the 1" hole on the shackles along with the 1" hole on the hangers is exactly what I was planning on doing. The rear would look very similar to my truck and I have no bottoming issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammered Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 HEY GUYS THE VIBRATION YOUR FEELING IF YOU DO IS FROM THR FRONT CV JOINTS. YOU PROBABLY HAVE THE TRUCK LOWER THAN 2" IN THE FRONT. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT NOT TO BIND THE CV JOINTS BY LOWERING MORE THAN 2". WE HAVE SOLD MANY ,MANY OF THESE SPINDLES TO THE ESCALADE AND DENALI PEOPLE WITH NO MENTION OF ANY VIBRATION. THESE VEHICLES HAVE THE SAME FRONT SUSPENSION AS YOUR SS DO. I THINK YOU GUYS ARE LOWERING FRONTS TO MUCH. LOTS OF TIMES THESE TRUCKS ALL SIT DIFFERENTLY BECAUSE ALL TORSION BARS DIFFER FROM VEHICLE TO VEHICLE. MAYBE DEALERS TWEAK TORTIONS ALITTLE BEBORE THERE SOLD OR PAST OWNERS DO IT THEMSELVES. AT HIGHER SPEEDS IF VIBRATING YOULL NOTICE AS YOU GO OVER A BUMP IN THE FREEWAY AS THE VEHICLE GOES UP THE VIRATION GOES AWAY. AS FOR THE BUMP STOPS IN THE REAR ITS UP TO YOU OR THE INSTALLER TO CUT THEM SHORTER. THE MORE AGRESSIVE THE DRIVER THE MORE YOU NEED TO CUT OFF. I SUGEST CUTTING ALL BUT ABOUT A 1/2" OF THE RUBBER OFF. ALL YOU NEED IS ENOUGH RUBBER SO IN EXTREME BUMPS THE REAR END HOUSING DOESNT HIT METAL TO METAL. THE PINION ANGLE DOES NOT NEED TO BE ADJUSTED WE HAVE KEPT IT WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE WITH THE HANGER & SHACKLE. AS FOR YOUR SHOCKS GM SPENDS MILLIONS OF DOLLARS ENGINEERING SHOCKS TO WORK WITH THIER VEHICLE. THESE SHOCKS ARE QUITE EXPENSIVE AND WORK BETTER THAN ANY $39. AFTERMARKET SHOCK WILL WORK. SO YOU DONT HAVE TO CHANGE THEM.USE WHAT THEY CAME WITH. SINCERLY MIKE MCGAUGHY PS CALL ME WITH ANY QUESTIONS, IM NOT ON HERE VERY MUCH. 559 226-8196 IF IM NOT AVAILABLE ASK FOR STEVE HE CAN HELP YOU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssblackss Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 Hammered and Others, Would you suggest that on the SS's because they are lowered any way that we remove the bump stop bracket and screw the bumpstop directly to the frame rail? Is this a viable option or would it make the available travel too much and then have the shocks or something else bottom out. I am not having the vibration issues that some have had but I feel the bottoming out has reduced my driveability some what. I realize that its now a lowered truck and this will happen on occasions but just looking for some info from Y'all. My truck is not all that low the torsion bars were not touched so this might solve others issues with vibration. ssblackss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctrow Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 Try this maybe. Take off the stock mount and put the bump stop directly on the frame. Then put a zip tie around your shock and have someone jump up and down in the bed to get it to bottom out. Then check to see where the zip tie is to verify if the shock is bottoming out as well. I can't remember what the rear shocks are like meaing I don't remember if the boot is in the way and if you can remove it. Just an idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssblackss Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 Thanks I will try to do the relocation of the bump stop first. Has any one else done this and does it work ok? Thanks for the input ssblackss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scandore Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 I removed the bracket it is easy you need a 15mm socket. Its two bolts on the bracket and one on the bumpstop itself the frame is already drilled. BUT check your exhaust mine hit we had to move it up about 1/2 inch but i also have tiny bump stops approx 1/4 thick that give it more travel. I still have a slight problem bottoming out very rare only big bumps and I'am also as low as the rear can get. if you aren't on the lowest holes I don't think you will have any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssblackss Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 scandore Thanks for your help that was my next project. Do you have any pictures of you truck sitting with the kit installed ssblackss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scandore Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 No pics right now, hopefully in the next couple of days I'll get some posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico750sxi Posted March 16, 2004 Report Share Posted March 16, 2004 The GroundForce kit had me remove the bumpstop and replace it with their bumpstop.It's much shorter. And that is with the stock bumpstop cut a bit from when I first did just the shackles. Hang on I have a pic comparing the two: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrock80 Posted March 18, 2004 Report Share Posted March 18, 2004 Well I got my truck back and its much better. They raised the front end up and almost all the vibration has gone away. There is a little tiny bit left at 90+ but I think thats a tire balancing issue. The front tires dont rub anymore when I make a hard right either. So if any of you guys are getting vibration the front needs to come up a little and it will be good to go. I am going to measure it, I think my front is about 1/2" higher the than rear now. I dont know if I am going to mess with raising the back up now to make it level or if I should just leave it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico750sxi Posted March 18, 2004 Report Share Posted March 18, 2004 Glad to hear things are better now. You could always switch to the different hanger hole to raise the rear up to be level again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrock80 Posted March 18, 2004 Report Share Posted March 18, 2004 I asked the shop about that, he seems to think the next hole up would put me at about 1" higher. Not what I want at all. I remeasured on level group and the front is only less than 1/4" higher than the rear. I dont think I am even going to mess with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I CORNER Posted March 18, 2004 Report Share Posted March 18, 2004 Wow! This mod results in even more compromises than I feared. After going through $8000 of extensive suspension modifications on my 94 Z28 M6 (aftermarket tubular suspension and torque arms, aluminum tailing arms/panhard, spherical rod ends, spherical bearings, antisquat brackets, Konis, coilovers, Addco, strut braces, Torsen diff, R-compound tires, etc, etc, etc), I had some idea of the homework required to really improve on factory designs. Even so, my Z28 has some ride compromises on the street for maximum cornering. I had feared that lowering the SSS with both rear pinion angle changes and front CV joint misalignment might be a risk. This is my new expensive cruiser, and I DON'T want nasty vibrations coming up. I had hoped to lower my truck from 1 to 2 inches for a little better stability. I have seen so many rollovers of SUVs and pickups. I would not be caught dead in a Ford Exploder SUV. The SSS will never corner over 1.1 Gs like my Z28, but I prefer the stability of lower center of gravity vehicles. Thanks for the info on the negatives of changing keys or loosening torsion bars and the potential problems with spindles, CV joints, bump stops, etc. I think I will keep my SSS at stock height for now. Good Luck guys and gals! Rick R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico750sxi Posted March 19, 2004 Report Share Posted March 19, 2004 I corner, One inch front and rear won't cause any problems at all most likely. ALl of us aren't stopping at one inch though. In the rear one inch shouldn't be an issue and in front I know one inch won't be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m396 #00-011 Posted March 19, 2004 Report Share Posted March 19, 2004 I asked the shop about that, he seems to think the next hole up would put me at about 1" higher. Not what I want at all. I remeasured on level group and the front is only less than 1/4" higher than the rear. I dont think I am even going to mess with it. What's your final measurements after it settled? All four corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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