2bfast

Welcome First off stay away from nitrous Pros and cons of a magnacharger. They are great for low end torque and will shred tires along with netting decent 60ft times. Also they dont need as much torque converter stall speed as they are a positive displacement blower which is why they create so much low end torque. They are fun little blowers Cons are they are they generate alot of heat and are hard to keep IATs down especially on thr top end. There are alot of options to help combat this issue I.E blower spacer, methenol injection, coolant chillers, larger heat exchangers ect. But i havent seen much success on these or rather repetitive success. Procharger. Great efficiant centrifugal blower and make decent ready to bolt on kits. They are somewhat generic and dont have a lot of choice parts to go with it. Such as blow off valve, intercooler, ect. Con is being a centrifugal blower they do not make as much low end torque as a positive displacment blower and you will need a much larger stall speed to get in your power band where the power is made and to get into boost to get the truck moving. Once you get a desired stall speed you will blow off your tires. No matter what blower you go with, compressing air causes heat and the number one goal is to lower IATs. Like above, some cause mor than others which is the nature of the beast. As far as transmissions. Going the 80 route would be a wise choice as they are pretty hard to break. Although thry take some fabbing and other parts to make it work it is still the best route by far and plenty have done it You could get away with buying a used 4x4 unit and install a shift kit and go. I think the level 5 from FLT is wayyyy overkill. Plus I would go with a Jakes 4L80 anyday. Hes the 80 guru. You will need a better fuel system no matter which way you go. As far a shop, MC Racing has had a good rep and they have a really good tuner there. If I was in KC still he would be tuning my shiz. His name is Justin Kalwei and goes by Justune. Get on youtube and type in Justune Red dragon.Needless to say hes pretty good at it. And hes a pretty decent guy. Also MC Racing is a Procharger dealer and is where I got my head unit and bracket from. Got a pretty good price for it. Also I see you have Kansas plates. They are in KCK off of 35 if I remember and also Procharger is in Olathe. I used to live 3 blocks from them.

<---------- doesnt claim to be a cam expert

......and here come all the cam experts out of the woodwork

this

Even though im in the midwest, im with you. I HATE it when snow comes. Just makes a mess of everything ......although it is nice for my yard

Ill be honest.....I really like that. I think thats clean as hell I also like the fact that is painted and not a decal two thumbs up

Oh yeah, it will still drive. Its not crucial but its always better to reset the relearn process to a new unit. If you do the R&R at home, a transmission shop or your local GM dealer can perform this.

Yes you need to reset adaptive shifts. Adaptive shifts is a learn process the PCM has that learns the drivers driving habits. Any good transmission repair should have the ability to do this. BTW, sounds like your 2/4 apply band and/or reverse drum is worn. Also could be in the servo assembly but I would lean towards the band/drum Good luck.

Please clarify why they are saying this? It would be really interesting to hear their theory.....

blah blah blah someone close this thread as requested please

Admin, please lock this thread. Its going no where and in a hurry.

If a sprag goes, it will only have manual low and reverse. This isnt a sprag issue

Do you want some cheese with that wine?

Please exit this forum Thank you

But stock injectors are fine spinning to 6600+ rpm!

b b b b b b but having a donkey dick cam in these trucks with a stock converter is the in thing nowa dayz! I just want to sound cool!

Didnt I just mention this above? Thats right, I did

That is not what Zach is referring to. If you have tuning software, you can log the truck just the same as someone sitting in the passenger seat. Email the log file, the tuner makes adjustments and emails back, and you reflash. Then you either repeat the process or make a run. What also helps is having a wideband that is tied into the software and will greatly help the tuner. Also, running this kind of boost you will most likely have a SD tune which will constantly have to be modified due to the constant change in weather.

lol

Bottom line is, if you get sprayed on the street and get butt hurt about it you shouldnt be racing. Grow a pair

I still think you are getting ahead of yourself with this IF the complaint is accurate for no gears at all Again, unless you are going to spend some money while its out I still think it can be a cheap fix

I hope you are planning on no less than a 3600 stall speed and 44# injectors. If not, you will have a hell of a lag with your 60ft, and max out your duty cycle with your stock injectors in a hurry

Might not be as bad as you think. Sounds like a pump issue. Could be an easy fix depending on how far you are wanting to go while its out

Yeah up to you. Trans mount is obviously not hard to change I would go back to stock, not worth spending the extra in this area

Are yours bad?