zachm89

Well, I guess I don't have to keep it quiet any longer since I signed paperwork today. Ill be picking up my brand new (to me) 2003 Arrival Blue SSS with only 58k miles on the clock tomorrow after work. Yessir, that's the one. Sorry brother, but I've had my eye out for another Arrival Blue truck since I sold my 04 a couple of years ago. This truck is stupid clean.

We shall see

Just going to leave this here.

I might be snagging this from you in the next few days. Ill know by Monday for sure.....

I want this...why can't it be Arrival Blue?!?

What a douche canoe.

You're* Whats up with that giant booger on your hood? I've never noticed that before. Should probably get that fixed broseph.

Back to the kitchen with your weak self, Jon boy.

Typical mustang owner that can't drive, blames it on the clutch... Wish I could dig up the video of me waxing a brand new Viper GTS back in like 2011-2012. Guy got so mad he drove straight passed the ticket booth, through the pit area and out the gate onto the highway

Disconnect the meth kit and give it a go around the block. Might be triggering the meth too early or spraying too much meth causing it to peg out rich.

Tune, tune, tuuuuuune....and of course give it plenty of fuel. The absolute most important thing to keeping and engine together with any amount of boost is going to be the tune. If your goal is 11-13 psi, I'd find someone local to do tuning. Not saying that Justin isn't a competent guy or a shit tuner, but if it was me I'd feel a lot more comfortable doing it in person. Also, don't expect yourself to be satisfied with 11-13 psi forever, so build your fuel system to support more. I'd do AT LEAST a pair of walbro 255's, or a single walbro 450. Also, you didn't mention anything about transmission upgrades. Are you planning to just run the stock trans till it destroys itself or at least beef it up from the start and then wait for it to destroy itself? That's partially a joke, but in all seriousness I'd avoid all the BS and do an 80e swap because if your luck is anything like mine or countless others, eventually the cost of rebuilding the stock trans will far surpass the initial cost of an 80e. And yes, some people have had great success with a fully built 65e but why risk it when the 80e swap is so damn easy? I absolutely loved the way my truck drove after I pulled my head out of my ass and went to an 80e. Good luck with whatever route you take, Im sure that whipple is going to be nice.

Come on Krambo, you're digging this one up from the grave. A 10 month old post around here is like a 10 year old post on a higher traffic forum Regardless, good info from someone who knows what they're talking about so at least the next poor bastard who sees this thread will have something knowledgeable to read!

That's not ceramic coating....That's hanging the headers outside and spraying them with a rattle can that says "ceramic". Get someone who does ceramic coating for a living and they will last forever. That high temp paint/ceramic shit you buy at the parts store is worthless to use as a header coating.

Since no one has bothered to help, I'll chime in and give my opinion. First off, it sounds like you have a very nice, unmolested SSS on your hands. So for that reason alone, I wouldn't go the 421 c.i. route if it were my personal truck. Or any stroker for that matter, unless it already needed a rebuild. I would however look into some form of power adder and without a doubt a 4L80e swap. With the correct heads/cam/blower setup you could definitely be within your desired power range, it would be much more streetable and retain some pretty good towing capabilities. IF you do decide to stay N/A and go with a stroker, for cam selection I'd suggest talking to a few cam vendors such as Cam Motion and Martin Smallwood. They can spec a more suitable cam for your setup that will maximize power and driveability. I understand you want to keep it streetable, but the three cams you listed above all seem far too small to me for a 421 c.i. motor. I personally think you'd be much happier with a blower on the 6.0L with a nice set of heads and cam to compliment everything, a 4L80e and a good converter.

Don't...just don't. If you want select-able 2/4wd you bought the wrong truck. No offense, but it's just not worth it.

Welcome

I never ran meth on my procharged truck but my wideband did do some funny shit under boost from time to time. Have you data logged the truck to see if you can pinpoint anything more than what the wideband is showing? If your wideband has the option to do a "reset" try that and see if it helps. Is your truck speed density tuned or still running a MAF? What injectors are you running? How much boost does it normally make? Sorry for all the questions, just need more info to try and accurately give an opinion.

Congrats! I seriously doubt I will ever get to 5k posts on this board for exactly that reason, it is so damn slow around here. But I'll damn sure buy another SSS one day if the right one comes along.

Despite the one overly fubar cam bearing, the rest of the engine looked pretty darn good. Didn't get any pics of the main or rod bearings but if metal wouldn't have gone through the motor I would have felt more than comfortable reusing all of the other bearings. Iron block 6.2L with 243 heads and timing set installed.

Who says it's more difficult to pull the engine out of an f-body from the top rather than dropping the k-member...guess it helps to have the heads off and all the accessories removed but who cares lol. The clutch disk itself didn't look completely terrible, but then again I have no idea what kind of clutch this is so it got tossed in the trash anyway. The flywheel on the other hand....yikes. Looks like the previous owner threw a new clutch disk in the car when the 6.0L was put in but neglected to replace or even resurface the flywheel.

It wasn't much fun, and I was pretty pissed off. At first I didn't even think I'd be getting them back out with how chewed up the bolt heads got when trying to torque them. And at only 18 ft/lbs....piss poor quality bolts but their idea is good and a great option for those who have blocks not pre-drilled for the timing chain dampner. If I ever have to open the motor back up down the line I'll get some new bolts and throw it in there but for now I'm just going to run without it.

Yeah, I would definitely like to have the wheels repaired or find another set of them in good condition. The 10 spokes are my favorite factory wheel for these cars and I can't afford to go aftermarket so getting mine repaired seems like the most economical solution. On another note, I started getting the motor a little farther along in it's assembly process. Got the Tick Polluter V2 cam installed, new cam plate and gear on, LS2 HD timing chain but had issues with the Trick Flow timing chain dampner adapter bracket. For those of you who don't know, some LS blocks are pre-drilled to run the timing chain dampner (guide). For those of us with older blocks, the holes for the dampner are not pre-drilled and instead of trying to drill and tap the holes, I opted to run the Trick Flow adapter bracket seen here ----> https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-30675600?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-trick-flow-specialties&gclid=CLjVjvnPytQCFQgLaQodG6INlw Unfortunately, I was unable to successfully install the bracket due to stripping out all but one of the allen head bolts that come with it. The bracket goes on the outside of the cam retainer plate, and utilizes the two side and one bottom bolt holes in the plate to hold the bracket and retainer plate to the block. Since the plate adds a certain amount of thickness to the outside of the cam plate, by using the factory or ARP cam retainer bolts, the back of the cam gear was hitting the bolt heads. So you are forced to either source lower profile bolts, or use the ones with the Trick Flow kit. All of which stripped out before even getting them to their required torque spec. Luckily I was able to get the bracket back off by hammering a larger allen head socket into each of the stripped bolt heads and removed it. I felt like the new timing gear and chain were damn good enough without the dampner so I decided to just move forward without it. Still a good product from Trick Flow Im sure, as it did test fit nicely and I would have used it had the bolts not been such a nightmare and another trip to the hardware store to find suitable bolts just wasn't going to happen. Moving on, I held off on installing the oil pump for now because I havent cleaned out the oil pan and pick up tube yet so Ill do that later on. I did however also get the new Morel 5315 lifters and new trays installed, heads on with ARP bolts (probably overkill for this build but I got a good deal on a used set so why the hell not) and measured for PR length since I know the typical "oh just buy 7.4" pushrods, itll be close enough" wouldn't be quite accurate for this motor with so many things changing. Going to still measure again just to double and triple check myself on PR length before ordering but right now Im leaning towards using a set of Manton 11/32" pushrods instead of the typical 5/16" for a bit of added valvetrain stability. Id really like to use a set of Trend 3/8" double tappers but those are a biiiit out of budget for this build. More pictures to come hopefully. I just always get in a hurry and dont stop to take pictures.

Well....I realize after today why the wheels were such a steal. We got the car up on the lift to pull the motor and trans out and realized that all 4 wheels are bent. They balanced out okay when I put them on the car, but sad to say they're FUBAR unfortunately. But, on the plus side, we were able to get the driveshaft, torque arm, trans, clutch and engine out of the car in about 2 hours start to finish. Now it's time to get the new motor slapped together and ready to install in the next few weeks. I've also got to get the rear end rebuilt or replaced because it is done for as well.

Finally it came down to the old motor, new motor and goodies for the cars new heart. Had a bit of help from my girlfriend while tearing into the old motor to chase the oil pressure issue. Fresh from the machine shop iron LS3 shortblock Hawks Sinister kit and Borla XR-1 Had to borrow a buddies trailer with a winch to get the car to the shop I'll be working on it at. Traded some home design for them in exchange to use their shop, lift and trailer. Tow pig & Catfish And last for now but certainly not least, the truck that will never be forgotten but will always be missed!