zachm89

I'll give it a few days and if I don't have any local bites I'll let you know.

I have no idea where to even start on shipping until they're off the truck and boxed up haha. I'd guess in the $50-75 range for shipping though.

Bump.

SOLD! Thanks for all the interest.

Why exactly are you directing that towards me? I think I've been around the block enough times to know the benefits of a tune and having a re-tune done for new mods. I think the real problem here is the OP who along with having no idea where to start on his exhaust, is also planning on installing a "flat tappet" camshaft into his LS engine. I mentioned a tune simply because he was wanting to ditch the cats, along with changing up the entire exhaust system. Of course he will benefit from a tune. But no tune in the world is going to help that camshaft selection.

I've always had good luck out of the Siemens Deka injectors. And I just so happen to have a set of 60's for sale if you'd be interested.

Bump. Price is OBO

Alrighty then....let us all know how that cam works out.

As good as it looks in pictures, y'all should see, and hear, the damn thing in person!

When you say missing do you mean it is holding each gear too long before it will up shift? Or will it refuse to shift to the next gear until you let off the throttle and get back into it? Honestly I wouldn't bother with an 80e swap with your truck the way it is now unless you have bigger plans for the future such as forced induction or a ton of nitrous, and even then you'll have to get pretty extreme with it before you really need to even consider an 80e swap. Im sure theres not an over abundance of reputable transmission builders in your area but even a mild performance rebuild should be more than enough for your mods. Just my .02.

Budget in the money for a tune and have the rear O2s turned off, no worries about codes. Now on to the cutouts. Are you planning on keeping the factory manifolds or replacing them with long tubes? Either way, you can get cutouts in there, but its a pretty tight squeeze. Most guys just run them a bit farther back in the system where there's more room. Thats really just up to you. As far as a bolt on catback, that will also depend on if you choose to keep the factory manifolds and mid pipes or switch to long tubes with an aftermarket set of mids or modify the factory mid pipes to mate up to the headers. There's so many different ways to go about doing it you could end up spending a ton more money in the long run if you don't plan out exactly how you want to do it the first time.

Who did you talk to? You can message me if you don't want to post the name publicly. Only reason I ask is I have met a few of the guys who work for them and also both owners and they all seemed fairly knowledgeable to me. I know they just moved from West Texas down south into northern Austin so they may have brought on some new people who might not know their stuff. Obviously not everyone can know everything and there's waaaay more wrong information out there than correct information so I'd just chalk it up as the guy just either didn't know the platform very well OR he has been trained to act like any salesman and sell a more expensive product than what you're asking for or need.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1 89 in/lbs...or to make it simple, just snug them up. They don't have to be crazy tight.

Swapping over to a different intake and injectors for my turbo build and won't be needing these. Everything was brand new when it went on my truck and only has roughly 5-7k miles on it. Would like to sell all together but will consider splitting up if I have buyers for everything. The injectors are the tall style with ev1 plugs. This is just for the Intake, Rails & Injectors...Throttle body and Dr.X harness in the picture are not included or for sale. Asking $550+ shipping for everything. I can snap a few more pictures this weekend, this one is all I could find.

Hey thanks for the diagram of the oil path Ryan...too bad it's so damn small! And what happened to your other .01? Can't give a whole .02 to this topic?

I agree with using a good quality filter but I really don't see the oil filter being the problem in this case. Like stated, the oil pressure is there, but only when there is a break in the flow path somewhere. If the filter was the problem there wouldn't be any pressure or flow when the cooler lines were disconnected just like there is no pressure when everything is hooked up. I'm starting to think along the same lines as Matt that the o-ring for the pick up to oil pump might be bad and letting air get in and when you make the break in the line at the cooler or filter it is creating more of "leak" in the system than the o-ring. It might explain why you still have good pressure when something is disconnected, but it isn't pumping properly when the system is buttoned up because it is losing it all at the pump. Checking that o-ring is kind of a pain in the ass but might be worth it to check it out. Did you also use a mechanical gauge in place of the sending unit with everything else still hooked up?

The only thing that is stumping me is the fact that you have good oil pressure and flow when something is disconnected...whether it be the filter or a cooler line, whatever. But then when you close the system there is no pressure. PS: Don't listen to Sinr, FRAM filters are by far the best you can buy...

Where's the roid boys ban hammer?

Where abouts in Texas? I have three in mint condition and one with some curb rash around the lip. Not sure if it's repairable or not but I know where to find a single wheel for a good price also. They have decent nitto 420s tires on them, probably about 30-40% tread left.

I haven't deiced on that yet. I have a friend who does a lot of 4x4 and off road work that said he would rebuild it for me for $200 with me supplying all of the parts. To me, that seems pretty reasonable, especially having the peace of mind knowing that he has rebuilt several of them and does it for a living.

Well my front diff finally shit the bed @ 140k. I've been reading up on all the different gear manufactures and have no idea what to go with. I need pretty much everything inside the differential, including a new ring & pinion. Any advice on what to go with would be great. Rebuild kits I'm finding are all around the 80-120 range and gears have been anywhere from 180-500ish. I'm not looking to go the super cheap route but I also don't have a ton to spend on it either. Thanks in advance fellas.

Looking good man, I'd run them all the time! And when the hell did this guy show back up ^^^^^?? Hi Chase

Only there to hold rotors in place while wheels/tires are off. They have no real purpose.

Forget having to pay someone to spec you a cam... If Zippy is doing your tuning, talk to him about the cam. He has more than enough knowledge and experience to help you pick a cam and he already knows the truck and how it runs from doing the tuning.