zachm89

This sound like to anyone else? Haha

Even if he didn't mean to add the extra zero and list the price as $250,000...That truck isn't worth $25,000 imo at all. And all of the bullshit in the post makes me want to hit my head against my desk. $4,000 for a set of KMC Slides with tires? Don't think so. $1,200 for a spray in bed liner that was done in Ft. Smith Arkansas and looks like it has been in the truck for several years due to fading....Spray in bed liners are about 1/3 that price, and didn't he say it was a 2 owner truck originally owned in Delaware, and he is in New York...So he drove it from New York (because he said he had the bed liner installed) to Ft. Smith to have a spray in bed liner installed....makes sense. Higher output "corvette" motor compared to a regular SSS with 500+ hp from exhaust, a CAI and "many many" more upgrades....the fuc* is this guy smoking?

Email sent

Okay, not the end of the world. So how about a price then?

I have never been a fan of any Monroe shock honestly. I tried them on my 03 Z71 back in the day and currently have a set on the rear of my 06 2500hd and both have been pretty terrible IMO. On an SSS if I was going to go aftermarket Id probably talk to Tony (guy that offers the lowering packages) or theres another guy that Ive seen people talk a lot about over on the duaramax forum but I cant remember his name or business. He does custom valving for the Bilstein 5100 series shocks for lifted, stock, and lowered trucks. He might have something that would work well also.

I was still running my factory shocks when I sold my truck with 130k miles and it still rode like a dream. Id say go with OEM if youve been happy with the factory ride quality and want something that will last another 100k+ miles.

What are you looking to get for her? And do you by chance still have the factory grille shell? I have relatives that live in Pensacola and Ive been looking for an excuse to visit them and go to the beach...

Hey now, who you callin a drama queen?!? Haha. Welcome "back" to the site. It definitely has died off quite a bit. Good thing I kept in touch with several members who don't come around anymore.

Well if you still have it when I win the lottery Ill come and get it. Damn you for posting your truck for sale when Ive been looking for another blue one...lol. GLWS man, beautiful truck.

Literally not a single thing about that truck makes it an "SS Clone"

Ive seen the first one. Way overpriced for what it is...IMO. Second and third links I like both trucks but being 2,200 miles away from me, thats a looooong trip. Haha.

I dont mind travelling at all for the right truck. But the farther away it is the more difficult. I wouldnt feel particularly comfortable flying 1000 miles to drive a truck home that I couldnt at least have someone check out for me before hand. Thats why so far I have tried to stick to looking in areas either close enough for me to drive a round trip with the car hauler or farther away from me in places that I know people. Thank you for the links though, I will definitely look at them.

Hmm. Try unplugging the TCC solenoid and take it for a drive, let us know if that changes anything.

Like I said, mine was fine after the trans temp got up to i think 100 or so. It only wouldnt go into lock up when it was cold. I didnt really have to fix anything, just drive long enough for the trans fluid to get warm and everything was fine. But sometimes its difficult to tell the difference between the trans shifting into 4th gear and the converter locking up which was why I asked if you were sure if it was the actual trans not shifting. Start by verifying with some sort of scan tool. If Muggs or someone in your area has HPTuners that should be able to let you monitor which gear you are in and if/when the converter locks up. You can also force the trans and converter to do what you want them to with HPT as well. Also, and I know this is probably a stupid question and I am in no way trying to insult your intelligence. But did you happen to check the fluid level in the trans? All sorts of goofy shit can happen if it is low on fluid.

Are you sure its the trans not shifting into 4th or is it the converter not going into lock up? Sounds a lot like what my truck used to do when it was cold outside. Took even longer for the trans fluid to heat up enough with the 40k cooler that in the winter i could drive to work and still never go into lockup. But once it was warmed up it was fine in mine.

It's all good Muggs, Im not too worried about it. If the guy cant even answer simple questions about the truck or care about his sale, how well did he really care for the truck? I can be patient and wait for the right one to pop up, haha.

Well after exchanging a few texts with the guy in Dallas, I've given up trying to contact him any more. I've asked three times for him to give me the VIN number so I can run a Carfax and have had no response. Also, the lack of any detail in the responses I did get out of him made me feel like he isn't a very motivated seller, or he just does not care to take the time to answer questions about the truck. Oh well, the search continues. I want to buy a truck from someone who will at least take the deal seriously and seems to give two shits about what they are selling.

I knew I'd regret selling mine before it was even gone. But at the time my financial situation was a little tight and I needed the money more than I needed three vehicles. I also knew I'd have to have another one some day. Might not happen right away but if the right truck pops up I'll jump on it right away.

Only 15,000 miles for 14k? If I wanted a red truck I'd be all over it. Shouldn't have any problems selling it if that's what you're trying to do.

Very true, and I suppose I wouldn't be totally against buying something with a salvage title but it would have to be considerably lower mileage to make up for it. Another thing I don't care for about the other 2 trucks is the front end being swapped for the split grille and different hood. They look alright in every other color but that has always just looked "off" to me in Arrival Blue. Maybe I'm just picky lol.

Where the hell were any of those at when I searched craigslist earlier today... Good finds, but the only one I would consider is the one in Dallas. Other 2 are salvage/rebuilt titles. Thanks Richard! Im going to see if the first guy can send me some better pictures.

Well, since selling my truck just over a year ago I've wanted to get back into one. I've tried locating my old truck but haven't had much luck. So, I am on the look out for a clean Arrival Blue SSS, as close to stock as possible. Not too worried about mileage as long as the condition of the truck is good. I thought I found one in Arkansas but the guy never got back to me. Tasteful mods won't be a complete turn off for me, but I'd much rather have one that is close to factory. Keep an eye out for me, I don't mind travelling for the right truck. Thanks everyone. Zach My son with my old truck the day I sold it.

Best bang for the buck would be a TBSS or NNBS intake and ls2 or ls3 tb, dont forget to figure in an xlink as well.

Contact BTR or Martin Smallwood. Either of them should be able to get you set up with a cam/springs/pushrods kit and will steer you in the right direction as far as what will suit your needs best. I had a 3000 stall in my truck the first go around with a 224/228 cam and a mildly built trans and it worked great for me. Still had good street manners and I drove it every day for almost 2 years with that combo before diving into the forced induction game. You might be able to get away with a little less converter being 2wd and a slightly smaller cam but I think around the 3000 mark is a good stall range to be in for an NA cam only truck.

Cam is fine, I had a 224/228 on a 112 back in the day and it ran great. Converter, probably going to want a 2800-3200, dont cut corners on the converter, buy a good one. Springs, dont waste your time on Comp 918s, get a set of pac 1218s if you want to stay with a single beehive. Injectors, 42ish pounds should be more than sufficient with room to grow. Oil pump is fine to keep factory unless you just want to change it while its accessible, a melling m295 will fit the bill and not too expensive. Timing change just pick up a cloyes LS2 chain, stronger than stock by a mile and easy on the wallet. Rockers, stock with trunion upgrade, you dont need to mess with the ratio. Pushrods you can get by with 7,4s but its best to measure just to be on the safe side.