RacerJJ

I've got the money...just no one to install it! California is strict with emissions and I don't think anyone can legally do it.

Thanks for all of the replies. All of the weight reduction tricks, I have done! I guess I should have mentioned that! I was thinking of removing the passenger seat as well as the bumpers but they both look rather difficult. As for the fella who suggested the cam...that is my next mod but I have no one to install it, I don't know how (more scared really), and I'm afraid I don't have time. Chase, I have some 16" stockers...can you get me a tire size? Thanks again everyone!

Anyone in SoCal have one of these by chance??? 3750 or 3800 stroke crank for a sbc, forged, 2 piece rear main seal?

Any ideas besides the obvious (cam, heads, FI, etc.)? I don't have time or the money for those right now. E-fans are going in soon so that may help. TIA...

I have a 3200 stall 9.5 PI and I think it's great for racing. I don't think I would recommend it for the street only because of the high trans temp caused by it, but if you upgrade your cooler and it's not too hot all the time, you should be fine. PI makes some of the best converters so even with my high stall, it doesn't feel loose on the street. As for the tires, I was thinking about it because I need to lose some ET by March 23rd, but I was going to go with 16" wheels if they would fit. With that being said, for this tire swap to work properly, you need a really short tire or else you'll have the same overall diameter as stock which would accomplish nothing. With a shorter tire comes less sidewall which could cause loss of traction so it's really a catch 22. Good luck...I recommend the converter very highly!

I think it should be based on several different factors such as mods, appearance, participation on the site, and accomplishments in the SS (racing, shows, etc.). If it's based strictly on mods, some won't be able to keep up and will never have a chance. Just my .02. Great idea...I love recognition for hard work!

For you, being a 2WD, most shops can do a dyno tune and really dial you in.

Where can I usually find Bosch relays?

YES... This is what you need to do, then: PIN 30 (to battery + ) PIN 87 (to the fan, positive wire) PIN 85 (to battery + ) PIN 86 (to the cab, run it to the switch...one side of the switch to PIN 86, the other to the ground...so that when you flip the switch, it completes the circuit and turns on the fan...if the key is on or not) ... Basically, pins 86 and 85 are the "switch"...one gets power, one gets grounded...and when the circuits completed, the big amperage can pass across 30 to 87 and power the fan. SO...most of us would have it so that the fan could ONLY turn on if the key were in the ignition...that's why I listed pin 85 as going to a switched wire (above, in my previous reply). ... If you want it to be able to be switched on any time...then just make sure pin 85 get power ALL the time...and run it directly to the battery. You can use 16-gauge wire for 85 and 86, and you switch...they don't carry much current. BUT be sure to use 10 or 12 gauge for the fan power coming off the battery (pin 30) and to the fans (pin 87). - Brian Thanks! You wouldn't happen to have a diagram would you? I'm kind of a visual guy. I just noticed your sig...we're alot alike...my daily driver is a 90 Nissan 240 SX but it's a POS! Thanks again. -John

Maybe I wasn't clear...I don't want the fan on at ignition. I just want a simple switch so I may turn it on at my leisure. The truck is driven on and off the trailer and down the dragstrip and that's it! Much like a race car set-up. Do I need all that tricky relay stuff for that?

Thanks...Can I just wire directly to the extra (top) posts on my Optima Battery or do I have to go to the post? The install instructions recommend fusing the fan...How do I do that?

I bought a single Perma-Cool E fan for my SSS since I only race the truck now. I am wondering if anyone knows how to wire it up directly to a switch? No pcm or thermal switch, just a simple toggle switch inside the cab. I am a wiring idiot so anyone who is handy with wiring, your help is appreciated. TIA.

Anyone know the dimensions of a 2003 SSS radiator?

very much so. i think the stock stall is around 1800 or so. could be wrong there. it is also called a brake stand. ive been reading a lot about guys over at performancetrucks.net running 3200-3800 stalls and driving them around daily but i just cant see it. to mee makes the car so mushy around town but others say its fine so im not gonna argue. 2600-3000 seems to be the most popular stall speeds for our trucks depending on mods, how much you plan on towing and a couple other factors as well. i think the tbtc might stall at 2400 though. My 3200 isn't as mushy on the street as I thought it would be. It's definately tolerable once you get used to it. The bigger problem for higher stalls in a daily driver is the transmission temp. I'm an advocate of 3000 and higher stalls. Your converter isn't mushy because of the converter you bought. When you buy a Viglante, they are the best for many reasons and that is one of them. They drive like almost stock even with a high stall and yet make for one hell of a launch. Glad to hear I bought the best! I had better have for the price! You are right...I drove it home from the track today and you can hardly tell that the stall is so high. Great drivability and a 1.88 60' time...that's what I'm talkin' bout!

very much so. i think the stock stall is around 1800 or so. could be wrong there. it is also called a brake stand. ive been reading a lot about guys over at performancetrucks.net running 3200-3800 stalls and driving them around daily but i just cant see it. to mee makes the car so mushy around town but others say its fine so im not gonna argue. 2600-3000 seems to be the most popular stall speeds for our trucks depending on mods, how much you plan on towing and a couple other factors as well. i think the tbtc might stall at 2400 though. My 3200 isn't as mushy on the street as I thought it would be. It's definately tolerable once you get used to it. The bigger problem for higher stalls in a daily driver is the transmission temp. I'm an advocate of 3000 and higher stalls.

I just was there last weekend at the speedway racing. My next scheduled stop there with SS is Labor Day.

"Stalling it up" means holding the brake while bring the rpm's up to around 2500 (or more depending on your stall speed) while in gear. The advantages of a higher stall TC are getting the power of your motor to the transmission and, ultimately, to the wheels faster as well as quicker launches. Hope this helps and there are no "dumb" questions!

Glad you enjoy it! Those mods are some of the best you can do to these trucks, IMO. As for your traction problems, you'll need slicks at the track. That traction control crap is pretty bogus when you start putting real power to the wheels. Good luck! In the meantime, drop your tire pressure!

What I need is EFILive! I'll look into that scan guage though. I called Zippy and left him a message but I haven't heard from him so I hope he got it. When I first got back to the pit, it felt like I only had third. I then took it for a test run in the pits and it shifted through the gears. I then left the track and went to the shop where they scanned it and it again shifted fine. The light stayed on all day during racing but was gone after the truck sat for a while and never returned.

Oh yeah Chase, 14.30's and 14.40's when the head wind picked up. The 13's are near when I get my Zippy tune! (so he thinks anyway)

Not sure about what code it was exactly but the great tuning shop I found next to the track scanned it and told me it was shift solenoid B stuck open? He said it was very common if any trans work has been done which mine has had a lot. I then called my tranny guy and he said the same and told me that if it still shifted fine to not worry about it and keep racing. So I kept racing and on Sunday, I woke up, started her up and no engine light through 11 passes that day. Shifted great and was deadly consistent. Damn computer, I'll never figure em out!

Man, our trucks make great bracket cars! I won the Division 7 National Open again last Sunday in Vegas with my trusty, consistent SSS. Another Wally and $750 thanks to my tune and AWD!!!

I don't know if anyone has heard of it, but I stumbled upon a great tuning and general perfomance shop in Las Vegas when my truck threw a code at the track on Saturday. They are called NRP and there website is cmotorsports.com for now. This is a great place for all you Vegas guys and it's a short trip from SoCal too!

All I can think of is torque management. Did that chip software deal you installed turn tourque management off or down?

I only run leaded VP 110 or VP c12 now that my SSS isn't a daily driver. The performance is superb and it smells great too!