SS_bnoon_SS

A few things I've noticed through this post to the contrary: First, the angle of the speakers looks to be pretty dang flat, which will keep the listener and the mic off axis, lessening the directional output and detectability of each individual set of speakers. Next, I believe Chris said that he would be covering them in suede material, which is not as acousticly clear as grill cloth, which will further pad the speakers down. He's powering the outer set by it's own amp, the center channel by it's own amp, and controlling them with a digital processor. It's a bit of a mix of old school layout (prior to horn drivers and kick panels, this is how it was done to raise the sound stage) mixed with more modern technology (the DSP device) to raise the sound stage. With the adjustability designed in to the system, Chris will have no problem controlling the tuning of the system. It's not even the number of bands in the EQ, but the timing delays mentioned that will make the sounds of the lower drivers reach your ear at the same time as the dash speakers. Now, if these were the PRIMARY drivers of the front sound stage instead of just being added on to the already existing low stage, then there might be a problem with RTA, but as it is I really don't see an RTA problem at all.

It looks like you took the defroster vents out. Those had to be cut out, correct? What are your plans to reattach them?

I saw you driving down the interstate just South of Ankeny this morning. I wondered if you have torn into it yet... I guess so! Can't wait to see it completed. It's going to look killer!

More pics from under the truck please! Are they the 4" round Magnaflows? How long? The 4" round by 22" case are the ones I've been thinking of doing...

Especially if you run an oil type air filter (K&N, Air Hog, etc). Or you can get one of the new dry flow filters and not have to clean it nearly as often.

Hummmm, time to add a grounding switch to the gas door for my alarm! Wouldn't do much for the drilling/puncture thing though, unless... someone... makes a gas level sensor add-on for alarms. Hold on a sec, I've got to go invent something...

Downloaded it in 3 minutes. They're on a smoking connection! Thanks man!!!

From searching the net, you may also need to run a non-VVT oil pump, but I'm not sure why as the oil pressure is the same, only volume would change I would think... Someone on the net also said it requires an LS2 front cover to eliminate the VVT. I think that's because there's a hole in the front where the VVT pokes through, is that correct? I can't remember for sure.

Hum, I didn't know they were calling the new Vortec Max engine an L76. Originally the L76 was the Holden 6.0 liter with the same L76/L92/LS3 heads. The VVT is controlled via the PCM, but it needs mechanical changes as well in order to run an aftermarket cam.

Are we going to have another Iowa mod meet? It's been a month already!!!

Are the tips going to be welded on, or clamp on? I'd rather have different tips is the reason I'm asking.

The L92 heads are the same as your L76 heads. To run an aftermarket cam, you will need to get rid of the VVT and turn off the V4 capabilities in the tune. You will also need to run a new set of standard gen III or IV roller lifters because your stock ones will collapse. Also, you may need to plug the oil galley hole that has the VVT thingie in it, you might call Scoggin Dickey to be sure since they build stroker 6.2 blocks for non-VVT use. 1.8 rockers, are they out yet for your series of heads? I've seen a couple of sets of "beta" sets for testing, but I haven't seen any released to the public yet. I really wouldn't worry about rod strength unless you get over 9+ pounds of boost or spin over 6800 RPM. Even then, you can add ARP rod bolts and improve the RPM capability of the stock rods.

I've got a Kicker Solobaric 12L7 sub to fit (after MUCH debate with another member). It doesn't have the recommended space behind the magnet for the vented pole piece to properly cool, but it's been working for over a year in there without issue. If you look at it, you can raise the bottom section of the rear seat just over an inch or so without unlocking it, and that what the L7 box requires. Not really raising the seat, just taking the slop out of it really. Doesn't change the comfort of it either as I have ridden back there for 3+ hours while my wife drove. A "normal" series sub should fit fine, such as Kicker Comp series or something similar. I know I had the old old old round series Kicker Solobaric sub in there before the L7 square one and it fit without any problems what so ever. I have a 12" Alpine type R and it's to tall to fit... just search around for mounting depths and you should find a regular sub that will fit.

Hey, don't you have enough credit with the mod being named after you? You have to come in here and claim lowest price too? Attention whore!

Nice performance mods, and some nice "Show" to go with the "Go" too!

Is it just me, or is anyone else trying to decide which one is the "toy" in this picture?

Nice list of springtime mods you've got there! Let me know if I can help with the Efans...

Yeah, you've got to shop around. gmparts direct wanted way to much for shipping, several shops around here wanted 40-50 bucks and had to order it, then I found one dealer that had one in stock and it was like $35 or so after taxes.

Just FYI, the E85 gives you a bigger saftey net while tuning for spark. So does a cooler charge... so it's a win-win as long as your injectors are big enough to flow 30% more or so. Yeah, pretty much every Kum n Go has it, plus the Hy Vee gas stations carry it. If I have to go on a road trip, I just find the stations online or throw in a tune for premium if I can't find them.

Looks like a fun time had by all.

LOL!, Yeah, I usually back in anyway, but the first time I pull head in to a parking spot in a long while and I hear "rump rump".. .aw damn... 1 day old spoiler gets scuffed. No worries though, can't even tell that it's been touched after a little time with the micro torch.

Yeah, it would probably hit a few things. The good part is, it's rubber, so it won't break. Plus, it only costs about 30 bucks, so even if you have to replace it, you're not out that much cash.

Every site has at least one person with a mod named after them. Usually the first person to do a mod that everyone does to their car/truck too, or wants to. We could use it as a verb too... "You need to Autoguy your front bumper..."

Berry's looks like his is stock height and it looks fine in his sig. If anything, it would probably help you look better at stock height since you won't hit parking curbs like me! I've already had to "heat polish" it because of a curb, and I'll bet I'll have to do it again someday.

I found the part number in Autoguy's post from when he installed his and someone else posted the part number. 15224193 Install wasn't to bad, though it's not a bolt on and you have to come up with your own hardware. I used a couple sets of 3/8" bolts/nuts/washers and a few of the stock plastic "through plugs" to hold mine in place. All stainless or zinc plated hardware to avoid rust.