CNE

not sure if this is your problem but check around the front driveshaft area and make sure the wiring harness is not rubbing the shaft or the joint. I have seen this on some of the newer trucks. Not sure if the wiring you are having problems with runs throught this harness or not.

My locker has stuck before, usually backing up will unlock it. Here is what you should do, the clutches will start to stick together and cause binding on turns, I worked for dealers for 20 years and have seen this on MANY Corvettes. Chevrolet actually had a bulletin out for the vettes. Change the fluid and get friction modifier (2 4oz bottles) Add the modifier first, then finish filling with 75-90 synthetic fluid. GM dealers now have a 75-90 fluid that already has the modifier in it. Take it out and do some figure 8's. Make 5 or 6 circles left, then right, then left then right. This will work the fluid and modifier into the clutches.

The bang may be the tranfer case mount nuts not tight allowing the case or trans to lift up. Second, the growl may be in the front differential, not in the case. I know you said you had awd before but I've never seen a factory full awd Tahoe. They had a selectable 4wd along with awd, 2wd, 4hi and 4low. The awd was not designed to be used on dry pavement for everyday driving, it will burn up the clutches in the case. I'm not aware of it using the brakes to transfer power, it has a clutch setup. Many SS owners will agree that the front diff's are known for being noisey on turns since they have torque to them all the time. It may be a situation where now that you have this torque when you didn't used to and now you are hearing a noise.

Not sure about the TT converters and you guys keep talking about saving up to buy the TCS but I bought a Yank ProTruck 3200 and it was $945 shipped. How dang much is a TCS? Anyway, I have not had any trouble with mine but I am not FI or N20 yet so I don't know what would happen with that. I know the ProTruck series is a heavier duty line than the TT.

Here is mine, keep in mind the OBX Lt's have "high flow cats" that are hollow except for packing along the edges, so really no sound deadener. They are basically like not having cats at all, which makes it sound different and also I am using a digital camera

Ok, the "resonators" are supposed to be high flow cats. They are not. There is no honeycomb material in them. They are bassically like a glasspack muffler, hollow straight through with packing on the sides. You will have the same effect as a cat delete since there are none. You will have to retune or your engine light will be on. There are also extra holes for 02's. You have 4 02's there are 6 holes. I used old 02's and cut the wires off to block the holes. It would be nice if they sent some plugs but what do you expect for the money. It will be loud with basically any muffler. I have tried multiple setups and currently have dual Magnaflows with a side exit in front of the rear wheel. The up side is they look like converters so it will pass state inspection as far as the visible parts goes. A good tune, and it will pass the emissions part too. Use the factory gaskets and throw away the ones that come with the headers, they will leak. You will also have to tie the two driver's side rear plug wires up to keep them off of the header. Poor design, the tube turns up instead of down. They slip in easily from the bottom with the plugs removed, but mine are very close to the frame. Do yourself a favor and go ahead and weld them in. The clamps are crap and the will wind up rattling inside the clamps. I will post a link to a clip of my truck.

No problems in NC with the police. I don't have any drone at highway speeds. It's actually better than the Flowmaster dual in single out I had previously. BUT, IT IS LOUD UNDER HEAVY THROTTLE!! The fact that there are no cats, has a lot to do with it.

Sound quality not that great, it was taken with a not so expensive digital camera. Sounded way better than I thought it was goint to though. I didn't know it was set to black and white until it was over, but it's kinda cool.

I think it would look good. I wish my truck was black. I have been thinking about doing my wheels either a dark charcoal gray or black. Wondering what it would look like on a blue truck.

I think the idea is to remove the stock muffler right? My tubing comes from the headers to each muffler and then turns out in fron tof the wheel.

Quaker State with a couple cans of STP Oil Treatment in it. LOL!!!!! Just kidding, M1 5w-30 in mine.

Not every one is going to read the same. Put in 6 quarts of oil when you change it and the filter, then run it and let it sit for a few minutes. Then check it to see where it reads, this will be full for your truck. Also as someone already said, as long as it is in the crosshatch area, it's OK. For most, 6 quarts will not take it to the full mark.

looks very similar to what I have except mine were two seperate tips. I like it.

Anybody got a blue ss with black or grey wheels, I am curious how it would look. Maybe flat black stock wheels.

You mentioned side exit and Magnaflows so I thought I would post this clip. Keep in mind, I have no converters and that makes a huge difference in sound. I don't remember the parts numbers but they are single in and single out. The tips were just some the shop had in stock.

This is a clip of my truck, look at my mods for cam specs.

This is a small clip of my truck at idle. Let me know what you think.

For real dude. My best so far was a 1.94

That gives me so much hope. I was hoping to get some 12's with 125 shot and based on similar mods, that should do the trick. I ain't against 150 shot. What do you run off the bottle? My best so far was a 13.96 with severe KR.

I am also having KR issues but mostly on launch off the line. If I hit it on the street it's not so bad but at hard launch it pulls a steady 7 degrees the whole time you hold it. It happens whether I spool the converter or just flat-foot it from a stop. It may be the exhaust or the valve springs. I just want it fixed. 7 degrees has got to be hurting my track times.

I ran a TBTC in my truck for about 2-3000 miles, it stalled to 2600 with no problem and I could twist it to almost 2800 if I stood on the brake pedal. The only reason I took it out was because I changed cams and needed more stall. I went with a Yank Pro Truck 3200 $945 shipped and I have had no problems with it in over 20,000 miles. Just my experiences....

Smoke, your time of 14.70 wasn't spraying was it? I would think you would run way better than that spraying unless it is a small shot. So my shift is set at 6100 and with my stall, my rpm never drops below about 4000 at wot, why couldn't I spray through the shift? I just always assumed everyone was spraying through the shift. 207, I have also been told to not spray below around 3000 rpm to prevent engine damage. What you will do with the setup smoke is talking about is you will have an on/off switch to arm the system, the the window switch will control when it comes on. Even with the switch on, it won't spray until the rpms are there. It is also a good idea to use a WOT switch so it won't spray unless you are at wot. You don't wan to spray at part throttle. Thunder Racing has a timing controller that allows you to run advanced timing in your program and then it retards the timing while you're spraying. Without it, you will have to keep your timing retarded all the time. It runs about $200-250 I think.

I don't feel so bad now, I have a best around what you did with similar mods. I was expecting more though. I think if I get rid of the 7 degrees KR, it should pick up some.

So Chase, why are you selling? You just recently did all that right?

I noticed your time with the N02, what does it run without spraying. I am curious what I might expect once I spray mine. I run low 14's and a best of 13.96 but my tune is in need of some adjustments to correct a KR issue, that's why I'm not spraying yet.