thepremium1 Posted June 19, 2010 Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 what size injectors ?? 42/lb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 what size injectors ?? 42/lb? Yes, 42# Multec II injectors, as stated in my original post..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 Like the direction your build is going. Budget-wise, I would take the $50 you have budgeted towards "gaskets" and put it towards replacing the timing chain and cam sprocket with the stock LS2 pieces (about $50), we did that on 8 UR HMI's engine and vacuum jumped 2-inches, MPG improved 2MPG. Budget-wise, I cannot remember needing new gaskets doing a cam swap?? Just the crank bolt ($7) and oil pump O-ring ($7). With your converter and tune it should run really hard! Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 Like the direction your build is going. Budget-wise, I would take the $50 you have budgeted towards "gaskets" and put it towards replacing the timing chain and cam sprocket with the stock LS2 pieces (about $50), we did that on 8 UR HMI's engine and vacuum jumped 2-inches, MPG improved 2MPG. Budget-wise, I cannot remember needing new gaskets doing a cam swap?? Just the crank bolt ($7) and oil pump O-ring ($7). With your converter and tune it should run really hard! Mr. P. Us 06' SSS guys already have the LS2 timing set Steve. As well as other LS2/LS6 parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 (edited) Us 06' SSS guys already have the LS2 timing set Steve. As well as other LS2/LS6 parts True dat; but the reason I suggested is, that when the timing chain gets 60K on it there is enough stretch that it makes sense to spend $50 and replace it with a new one, since the front of the motor is apart at that time already to R&R the camshaft. By 60K-miles it's stretched enough to retard your cam timing a couple degrees and it will affect your mileage and performance significantly. My 2-cents. Mr. P. Edited September 28, 2010 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malibutwins Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 (edited) I have seen to many timing chains stretched out with low miles. Also, your putting a heavier load on it with stiffer valve springs. Edited September 28, 2010 by malibutwins (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted September 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 UPDATE I have knocked two items off the list that are not totally necessary, the fuel pump and UDP are going to wait a while. I am going to try and do more with less so to say. The install is going to be sometime in late winter, as my recent job change among other things have kept me very busy. As for the timing chain, I have heard mixed feelings about changing it. Three very reputable sources that I have spoken to tell me it is not necessary to change it...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted September 29, 2010 Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 (edited) UPDATE...As for the timing chain, I have heard mixed feelings about changing it. Three very reputable sources that I have spoken to tell me it is not necessary to change it...... Easy to answer that - put a degree wheel on it and measure the slack in it! I wish I were closer, I'd let you borrow my degree wheel; that way you could make sure that the ICL is installed exactly where it needs to be as specified on the cam card. Mr. P. Edited September 29, 2010 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomp62301 Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Easy to answer that - put a degree wheel on it and measure the slack in it! I wish I were closer, I'd let you borrow my degree wheel; that way you could make sure that the ICL is installed exactly where it needs to be as specified on the cam card. Mr. P. I may have access to one. I'll let you know Dan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Easy to answer that - put a degree wheel on it and measure the slack in it! I wish I were closer, I'd let you borrow my degree wheel; that way you could make sure that the ICL is installed exactly where it needs to be as specified on the cam card. Mr. P. Can't degree a cam with out an adjustable timing set to accomodate for any valve event variations/differences. Dan I did not change mine and the truck had 60K on the clock and now has 66K. I drive her hard and dont have any issues. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueAKSSS Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 (edited) Can't degree a cam with out an adjustable timing set to accomodate for any valve event variations/differences. Dan I did not change mine and the truck had 60K on the clock and now has 66K. I drive her hard and dont have any issues. Good luck! I agree never changed the timing set on my 5.3 when I did the cam swap, seemed fine has 50K and the engine is a 2002. So if it's in good shape I say go for it. That's just my opinion though.... Edited September 30, 2010 by Matt* (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Can't degree a cam with out an adjustable timing set to accomodate for any valve event variations/differences. Dan I did not change mine and the truck had 60K on the clock and now has 66K. I drive her hard and dont have any issues. Good luck! I'm going to have to agree with Mr. P on this one, it's not as if the motor will not run OK or not, it's whether or not it's going to put out what it can. I've seen people install a brand new chain and it have about as much slack in it as the old one that came out and generally gets worse after a motor has been align bored, but in these cases there are also chains available that are shorter to cure the issue. It's not a big of an issue as it was in the older days due to better equipment, but just because a cam is supposed to be ground on certain numbers doesn't necessarily mean that it was. The only way to know is to check out the numbers with a degree wheel. It is also not entirely true that the only way to adjust cam timing is through an adjustable timing chain; all you need is a drill and a set of offset timing bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 I'm going to have to agree with Mr. P on this one, it's not as if the motor will not run OK or not, it's whether or not it's going to put out what it can. I've seen people install a brand new chain and it have about as much slack in it as the old one that came out and generally gets worse after a motor has been align bored, but in these cases there are also chains available that are shorter to cure the issue. It's not a big of an issue as it was in the older days due to better equipment, but just because a cam is supposed to be ground on certain numbers doesn't necessarily mean that it was. The only way to know is to check out the numbers with a degree wheel. It is also not entirely true that the only way to adjust cam timing is through an adjustable timing chain; all you need is a drill and a set of offset timing bushings. Same difference... Modifiying the OEM sprocket to allow for adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted October 3, 2010 Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 good info guys. Some of our best tech posters are in this thread :rocks: when I had mine apart it had slack...and that was 30k of miles. I left mine in there, but agree with the possibility of there being some error, and when you want every drop of power a couple of degrees that go unaccounted for can be power on the table...or worse tuning problems. If this was not a 'budget' build I would degree the cam and get the new Ls2 stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 You hit the nail on the head Joe, this is going to be a down and dirty cam swap, nothing crazy as budget is a big part of the plan. Am I correct in saying that you have to pull the oil pan to change the timing set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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