Blazerdave2000
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Posts posted by Blazerdave2000
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I would recommend finding a local (good) shop to do it they can put all the updates in it and beef it up. I've never heard anything good about a Trans you buy off line lol. Not to say you can find a good one but I never would go that way.
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Thanks again for all the info guys. I'm not 100 percent set on a live tune just always thought that would be the best way to go. Ill be giving zippy a call next week to see what he has to say.
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I would want to know alot more about what he did. No way would I take my truck to him. Zippy asked me a lot of questions when I got mine done and I also told him a few things I wanted done. He knows what's he's doing and even explained things to me. He spent time telling me about it and is very knowledgable. That guy seems shady.
Yes I do agree zippy would be the man to go to. Only problem would be he's 2 days away lol. I was thinking about getting a trailer and taking it to Ohio to PCM for less. I'm sure they would do a better job?
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Thanks for the info. That's what I was thinking. There's no way 20 mins could have done anything lol. 300 bucks for 20 mins lol.
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I don't think they have to know everything. What he's going to do is get some data logs, at WOT partial. Etc. adjust timing, fuel, etc. get some more logs, adjust again if needed. Doesn't really matter what's done to the truck (I don't think) I'm no pro. So I may be completely wrong. BUT I would like a place that talks to me, tells me what they did, and all that so I know he actually did something. Not just drive around, waste my gas, use my truck for an errand he needed to run. And come back. Hahaha.
Lol yea I know what u mean. I'm just crazy when it comes to this stuff. I want it done right. I like peace of mind.
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So. A friend of a friend of a friend got his SSS tuned yesterday. It was basically stock except for a few little Add ones and a built up Trans with a stall. A bunch of us went together to get a feel for the place and the tuner for when I get my whipple installed I was planning on going to the same place. We get there talk to one of the guys then the tuner walks in we hand him the keys and he never asked what was done to the truck at all. Takes the keys with his laptop and rolls out. Comes back in 20 mins hands us the keys and says here u go all done and walks out. We pay and then we leave. Lol. Something don't seem right here lol?
We have no clue what he did? He never asked what was done to the truck at all? I thought these guys had to know everything? Anyway does this seem right to you guys? I'm now nervous to take my truck up there?
Thanks
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Hey guys some of you may know Yes i'm jumping ship. But i'm not leaving the site these guys are awesome- ALL OF YOU! . Some things have come up and have to sell Fast. Haven't been around lately as work has been taking up a whole lot of my time. But here it is.
-03 Silverado SS Victory Red with 67,xxx
-Finish Line Level 4 Trans w/2800 Vigilante Stall
-40k Tru-Cool Max trans cooler
-05+ Efans and PCMFORLESS harness with pcm patch
-Throttle body coolant bypass
-Spray in Bed Liner (not over the bed rails)
-160 Stat
-RPM Performance tune- Thanks to Blazerdave2000
-Powder Coated Valve Covers
The only bad
-Front Grill center piece is cracked Waiting on forum member to send my weight spec on package lol but it will be changed or sent to your location if sell goes faster than parts.
-Few Scratches but nothing crazy it is a truck after all
-Some curb rash from previous owner
$14500 Need it gone like yesterday. Owning 4 trucks at the moment in a financial burden and this one is too nice to let sit. Hopefully this sells fast. Thanks for looking
Amazingly clean truck. I've seen and drove in this truck many times. Sorry to see it go.
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That's the front diff making that noise. When ur on the gas the momentum of the drivetrain changes and outs torque on diff bearing. When u let off the gas it does the same thing. Front diff needs to be rebuilt.
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I actually took mine back out and replaced the yoke on the driveshaft. Installed a new seal again and reinstalled everything and has been fine since. The yoke must of had a scratch or something
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I don't think it really makes a difference to be honest. The screen is there to protect the sensors. Removing it I don't think your going to see any hp difference what so ever.
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Well after tracing wires out for the reverse sensing wire it's the light green wire under the stealing wheel it goes to a grey plug with about 60 wires in it. It's the far right wire in that plug. Hopefully that helps future people.
Good luck guys
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Just installed my new head unit and I'm also installing a back up camera. In the directions for the camera it says ill need to tap into the reverse sensing wire in the vehicle harness. Has anyone ever hooked up a camera and knows what wire I have to hook to???
Thanks a lot
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Also when you put it in any gear can u feel it actually kind of engage or don't feel anything??
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Well i posted about 2 months ago about my sss losing all gears out of nowhere. Turned it on and just wouldnt go into any gear. Well mechanic took tranny apart and didnt find anything wrong with it! Could a bad converter cause to not be able to go into gear? I have a 4L80 by the way. AWD
That sounds like it could be a lot of things. Few basic things are you sure it has e bought fluid? Linkage hooked up at the Trans? Could be a bad input shaft, bad converter, linkage not hooked up internally in the balance body. I'd check all the basic stuff first.
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Ok yall. Well last week I ran a few tests with diagnostic. First, there was no code for the MAF. Second, there were 2 codes for each bank running lean. "Bank 1 lean" "Bank 2 lean" or whatever. Which is odd because really it seems the truck is running very rich. I can smell the fuel that seems to be passing thru unspent. So I replaced my spark plugs, they were totally fouled, and that didnt fix the problem. Then yesterday I replaced my MAF thinking surely that would fix the problem even though it wasnt throwing a code. It didnt fix the problem.
So now I am stuck wondering what part or parts could cause both banks to throw a lean condition code and also cause the misfiring that I am currently experiencing. I thought the MAF would be the culprit since its the one part that dictates to both banks but obviously that didnt fix anything.
My last resort is either my coils or my O2 sensors but I have a hard time imagining the O2s causing the misfire. From my experience with bad O2s they cause a lean or rich condition but the car is still drivable overall with no mis fires. Just bogged down. This is a misfire issue. I think I just solved my problem by process of elimination which leads me to the coils. Since my truck is a little lower than normal I think some dirty water splashed onto my coil packs, (I can see the dirty dried up water droplets all over the coils).
Have you guys ever had a problem with water splashing up into the engine bay and onto the coils requiring their cleaning or replacement? Would the water cause a short in the coils? I was under the impression that all the sensetive electronics in the coils were under the plates and required some work to access so it would be very hard for water to damage anything but of course any fluid can find a way into the smallest of openings so it is definitely a possibility.
So it looks like I will be removing all my coils and spraying them down with CRC electronics cleaner at the very least. Should I take the time to do a proper diagnostic and check that the voltages are within tolerance on each spark plug coil? Do you guys have any other pointers for me in this process?
Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any responses.
This may sound dumb. And I'm not a expert at all but I had this exact problem with my other truck. Ended up being one of the coil packs. Even though the codes didn't specify with cylinder was misfiring. Since I didn't no what the resistence was sapossed to be in the coils I just bought a new cool pack. And went to each coil and replaced it with the new one and kept going down the line until I found the bad one. Eneded up being number 7. I guess I could of used a meter and tested each one and replaced the one that showed any weird resistance lol. But it was the experience that counted lol ha. Anyway if I had to bet I would say this is your problem for sure.
Good luck buddy please let us no what u found.
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Lmao that's bad ass!
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I would love to do that unforntually I have to run cats to pass emissions in my area.
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So I'm getting ready to change my exhaust system and I have a few questions. I'm going with the pacesetter headers and they have a 3 " outlet. The factory exhaust is 2.5". I would like to keep it at 2.5 so would you just reduce it down at the header?
Also I looked today and there's 2 cats coming off the y. My headers are long tube so they won't bolt to the factory setup. What's everyone using for a cat setup with Long tube headers?
Thanks guys
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?????? where did you pull this out of? the second fastest truck on this website was a 65e. and many low 11 sec trucks are still 65e. ive had my built 65e for 3 years now and it runs like a charm and its taken some serious beatings. and im going to be putting it through my D1 setup this spring for some more beatings. i dont understand where and why people keep saying this
Agreed!
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No one lol? Weird...
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Has anyone ever heard of these or have used them? When I had my Trans built up that's the converter I used. Seems to work great just curious I anyone else has?
Thanks
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Everyone is on the hype train about the 80. Are trucks with the stock 65 work fine when the truck is stock. Start adding power then your going to have a problem. But that will happen to any trans that's stock on any vehicle. If you get the right person and the right parts to build up the 65 then that trans will work fine under lots of power. Just my 2 cents.
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Well I can buy a brand new block off the Internet for 700. I can buy a complete engine from my junk yard for 250 but I'd have to pull it myself and I'm trying to avoid that lol. I'd say like 4-500 bucks.
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What's up guys I'm looking for a regular 6.0 block cast iron. It can be a blown engine or just the block.
Thanks
03 awd ss tranny died......
in AWD, Differential, & Transmission Tech
Posted
The proof is I have seen and heard of countless guys buying a Trans offline and has had problems with them. I never said flt or whatever it is called is bad. Obviously anyone with common sense knows there's a lot of factors that play into that. Does that guy drive like a A hole and do neutral drops and stuff like that? And then they say oh that Trans I bought from so an so website is a piece of crap! Well duh your doing natural drop u dummy. You never hear the whole story. Anyway my uncle owns a Trans shop and is well aware of how to build a performance Trans. Like I said find a (good) Trans shop that build performance Trans. That's all I'm saying.