Dylan06SS

Thanks for the compliments. Actually you're in PRIME detail territory down there... tons guys who are more talented than I am, doing much more amazing things. Specifically a company called Tropical Detailing... if you end up going thru him, let him know that Dylan06SS from Autopia.org referred ya Just a couple ones he posted up... hes my hero: Midnight Blue Metallic Lotus Elise 04 F150 Xtended Cab

I linked this thread on GMFS and STS.com... gotta see it go to someone I know

My baby still looks good. If I had the room to garage it I'd buy it back from you in a second Kris... definitely looks like you've been taken care of it like I did. If/when you do finally sell it LMK where it goes, I wanna keep tabs on it BTW - I will vouch for Kris, stand up guy and his auto loan dude took good care of the deal when we did our transaction... no one should have second thoughts when buying from Kris... especially this truck IMO.

That looks awesome.

T-E-S-T M-U-L-E Geez guys... its not like its a production ready vehicle... ever see what the Z06 looked like when they were testing the LS7... pretty much the same. If you look closely the rear windows are bolted in, theres a dent in the fender, and the lower valance is missing the insert... its hardly ready for the production line, its a TEST MULE as far as anyone can tell. The guy who took the pics even said that the seats were C6 seats bolted in and there wasn't much else of an interior.

DO IT!! You won't be sorry and they'll stand behind the work.

Not callin you out, but with your mods in your sig - Wheatley Tune, Volant CAI, 160*stat, Zippy Shift Kit, Trailblazer Converter, Corsa Sport, Jet-Hot Coated Pacesetters, High Flow Cats, Tru-Cool 4590 That seems a little unlikely... unless the kid just flat couldn't drive.

Ah... you kids don't know nuthin about post whorin'

Carlsbad is a nice (AND EXPENSIVE) area to live in. I'm down there every couple of months to visit a buddies family who lives there so maybe we can meet up once you get settled.

fixed it for you

Tapatio IMO

Reposting these from a member over on GMFullsize.com who got pics at Woodward, hope they're not a repost here. According to him, "yes" that is the exhaust exiting out the fender and it "sounded similar" to the LS7 solstice that was also there... Not sure if its an actual GM project or just some test mule... but either way its BADASS!! Please excuse me... I'm off to go look at these pictures and touch myself in inappropriate ways

A bit much for my taste, but it does flow together in a way.

I'm having a hard time understanding why you would make "real" CF parts and then just lay them over your stock pieces?? Why not just replace the part with the CF part?? Seems more like you're selling a simulated CF decal, not real CF.

Sounds like you may have a silicone based product that left some residual behind. Stoners is great stuff, but if theres any oily product on there when you spray it on you're not getting the best results. Next time you wash claybar your windows, clean off the residue with a damp cloth, go back over them with Stoners and a MF glass towel, finish off with your preferred sealer (whatever your LSP is - zaino, der, optimum, etc) Again, you need to get rid of all the residual product before putting new product down. Use a mixture of soapy water (little bit of car wash soap and water) and clean all your plastic surfaces completely... use a terry towel for this to scour as much off as you can... this might take a couple of times going over, but basically you want to clean it until it looks matte and dry. Apply your dressing - use a WATER BASED dressing with a plasticizing agent in it for best results.... 99% of the time I use Adams VRT b/c (like you stated) I don't like the greasy shiney look... just a little bit of shine is good to me. I posted pics at the bottom to give you an idea of what the finish looks like. As for applicators I like block foam, absorbs a lot of product and distributes evenly without leaving any heavy spots. You can get these cheap from most detail suppliers: I also use this stuff for vents, small cracks, and hard to reach places. Just spray on and thats it... great if you have a hard time getting into the crevices or your AC vents with a regular dressing and applicator: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-58-in-out-spray.aspx The common misconception with our (GM trucks) leather is that you have to use some super leather protectant... fact is GM coats the leather with a clear coat protectant stuff so theres really not much you can do. I only use leather cleaners b/c they offer a smell "like leather" otherwise pretty much any dressing you use or plastic of vinyl will work just as well. The exception to this is the areas that start to crease or crack... potentially that factory protective layer is gone so using leather conditioner there to prevent further damage is usually a good idea. Meguires Gold Class is a good OTC product, Zaino also has an excellent leather treatment. Heres how the VRT finishes up... nice semigloss without all the greasiness:

BRING IT BITCHES

A lot of people have been PMing me asking me to come to them... sorry guys... I don't do mobile. This is a side gig for me... I retired from mobile detailing years ago. I have a day job, a 9 month old baby, a wife who thinks I spend too much time on cars as it is. If you truly are interested just bring the vehicle to me and I'll take care of you, but I just don't have enough time and theres not enough money in it for me to drive around and detail in the field. To answer the questions about charges: For SSS.com forum members I charge a base rate of $125 - this includes: Complete wash & Claybar Basic paint correction using a machine (PC 7424) Basic polishing products (DER Stuff) Paint sealing & protection (DER Shiney or Optimum) Basic cleaning and polishing of the wheels + sealer Exterior trim & tire dressing Glass cleaning Interior vaccum & dressing + leather conditioner if applicable A little extra is charged if you want hot water extraction to remove any upholstery or carpet stains. *for most guys who are into their truck this is enough... if you take good care of your stuff, have put a couple of coats of wax in the past and especially if you don't have black this process will be sufficient to get a great shine and deep look on your paint. For the process that was done on the Avalanche you're looking at $300+/- this includes: Complete wash & claybar Full paint correction using the machine Premium polishes Multiple passes including additional steps for added depth and shine Paint sealing and protection (MSW + optiseal) Exterior trim, wheel well, & tire dressing Engine compartment detail + dressing Undercarriage pressure wash/steam clean Cleaning and polishing of wheels + sealer Interior shampoo + hot water extraction if needed Leather conditioner and protectant Glass cleaning (and polishing if needed) Dressings & complete interior detail I need the car/truck anywhere from 4-8 hours depending on the process and condition its in. Anyone who is interested is welcome to stick around and learn the process or at the very least have a couple beers. I don't mind if you don't stay around... I actually work faster when theres no one there to BS with. As with anything the condition and the amount of work required to get the results you want will effect the price, and there are middle ground prices too... these are just the 2 ends of the spectrum. I do really enjoy educating people on the RIGHT ways to wash and car for their car so the prices I'm charging are enough to cover my supplies and my time (as I have so little of it lately) but its also a great excuse to hang out with other truck guys. Also, if you already have a preferred polish regiment, but want to learn how to eliminate (or at least limit) the amount of swirls and scratches you see between waxes I can do a basic wash, teach you the process, and demo the products you'll need to do it. Think of it as WASHING 101 class... I can do that for $40 and that will make a world of difference for most people... it usually only takes an hour or two also. I have a sudden urge to visit the windy city

Sure... all the time... its a religious charity... you give me money and worship the ground I walk on while saying things like "Holy Shit" and "OH MY GOD" after I restore your paint.

Good idea, except I think I should get to keep the money

HAHAH!! yeah... I do... DISCLAIMER - this process is specific to a STOCK engine compartment. Any painted, chromed, or other type of finish will have to be taken into consideration. Also the mechanical condition of the engine compartment may be a factor. Use common sense and good judgment when going thru this process. 1) - Cover battery terminals, exposed filters, sensitive electrical components, etc. Doesn't have to be water tight, just a plastic bag and some masking tape to keep these parts from getting directly hit with water. 2) - Spary your preferred APC (all purpose cleaner) on any areas that need it (I prefer simple green cut 50/50 w/ water) 3) - Using a semi-coarse brush break up any stubborn spots of grease, grime, dirt. Avoid soft plastics, paints, or easily scratched metals when using the brush. 4) - Start engine 5) - Using a BROAD STREAM of water rinse completely watching for any changes in idle speed, engine sound, etc. If anything goes wrong or the idle speed changes STOP immediately. NOTE: Avoid heavy streams of water into any areas that could result in a problem (i.e. - intake, plug wires, fuse box) 6) - Close hood and leave idling for a few minutes. 5-10min. usually will be enough. 7) - Shut engine down & open hood 9) - Towel dry or use air compressor to get residual water not evaporated by engine heat being careful not to burn yourself on any hot parts 10) - Apply preferred non-oily/greasy dressing to plastics. Apply with a detail sponge or pad DO NOT SPRAY any dressing directly into your engine compartment as they will cause problems for you later. NOTE: Avoid belts, pulleys, or other moving parts that could be adversely affected by dressings.

Yes.

LMK when you're ready and we'll set something up. Yup... it can also drive you insane though... it does such a good job of showing even the smallest imperfection that often times you'll go nuts trying to correct them all.

www.toolup.com has them for $125... I don't who all got a PC7424 at Lowes for $60... must've been a scratch & dent special b/c theres no way they were retailing that cheap. Keep in mind you'll need good pads to go with it... so buying a package deal from a detail co is usually best.

OMG WTF?!?! You just wiped out an entire species or something!! Thats amazing.

Whenever yer ready LMK... you could always hang out for a little bit... theres a fridge in the garage, always stocked with beers... and if we run out my neighbor works for Budweiser so he'll hook us up with more. Theres also victoria gardens just 5 minutes from my place... tons of stuff to do there. C'mon now... I've seen some of your pics of black paint and you don't need any help... what ideas could you possibly be borrowing??