Dylan06SS

For the rear wheel wells just use APC and a brush... nothing special. For the tonneau - is it vinyl?? To clean the inside hoop of the wheels without taking them off you need a skinny bottle brush w/ a flexible shaft... something similar to this: Here’s another great wash tool from the brush experts at OXO. The ingenious OXO Good Grips® Spoke Brush is really five brushes in one. Say what? That’s right, mounted to the classic OXO rubber handle are four soft, nylon bottle brushes that are capped with a stiff scrub brush. The genius of this brush is that it’s adjustable to nearly every wheel imaginable. Simply grab two legs of the bottle brush and pull to the desired shape and width. Sheer brilliance! This is the perfect brush for true spoke wire wheels and wheels with an intricate design. No surprises there.

Looks good... those swirls are pretty minor... you could buff those out real easily. How did the process go for you? How long did it take? Anything you'd suggest I add or take away from the writeup?? I always want feedback so I can make it better... sometimes its hard for me to write in terms everyone can understand since I do it so often.

Sup Jon... Chase and I were just talkin about you (all bad stuff... like what an enormous douche bag you are ) last weekend. I've got to get by your place one of these days, if only I could find the ****ing time... if you're ever in my neck of the woods on a weekend drop by the garage... I'm usually working on a detail. There weren't even Silver Birch SS's in existence when I made that video... and the blue guys for whatever reason couldn't man up and get me some good video... probably b/c its the slowest color.

Started at 9am... was done before 3pm... and I wasn't really haulin' ass... there was a good amount of BSin time mixed in.

Ummm... I'm running an Alpine W200 w/ a stock bose system and my steering wheel controls... other than the Volume buttons being a little sensitive you'd never know it was an aftermarket system... Onstar works fine too.

WOW... that first video is awesome... whoever put that together must be one amazing guy... probably really good looking and talented too.

Actually no I haven't yet... I'd imagine it would be treated like any other surface, just have to be careful near the edges to make sure you didn't cake any product in there or peel it accidentally.

Main camera - Nikon D70 digital SLR w/ 18-200mm VR nikkor lense Backup camera - Nikon S50, great little point and shoot camera for the money. Heres some of my favorites I've done with the D70 (Resized obviously. Natively I think they're over 3000pixels wide) These are all shot in manual (except the dolphin pic) and if you're going to invest in an SLR then you need to do some reading and learn how to shoot in manual... truely the only way an SLR should be used.

Woolite mixed with water (concentration depending on how dirty the seat is), a cotton terry towel, and elbow grease. If you've got REALLY stuck on grime its safe to use a watered down APC as well, but it can't be allowed to settle or it will stain the leather. I spray on the APC, scrub, then spray just plain water to get the APC off, be sure to follow with a good conditioner afterwards.

To each their own... if it works for you who am I to tell you to change it... as long as you take away some info from the post its all good. As for tips with buffers... thats in the works, but there is so much to cover its gonna be a while.

Grit guards are also 'finned' at the bottom, this design keeps the turbulence caused when you insert your mit into the bucket from bringing the contaminants back to the top as well. As for the DO NOT RINSE BETWEEN PANELS... you should soap the ENTIRE vehicle before you rinse... water mixed with soap is much less likely to spot than water by itself, so if a panel starts to dry with soapy water on it you're ok, but if you rinse, then the beads of water will cause water spots when they dry. Porter Cable DA polisher is what you want... the kit from Adams is a good starter kit for the price, there are also excellent packages from other detail sites... just depends on what you want to spend and how serious you are about it. With some basic instruction anyone can learn to use a PC... then its a matter of learning what compounds coupled with what pads and what OPM speed you use on each type of panel and for how long. HAHA!! My neighbors already think I'm insane... I'm washing cars multiple days a week for hours on end and I use a foam gun while I wash. I'm sure most of them think I'm some mentally handicapped OCD weirdo or something.

Its in there.

For all the polishing, all the waxing, all the buffing, dressing, scrubbing, and wiping... theres one key element to a good looking finish on your car/truck/suv... thats THE WASH. What most people don't realize about washing their vehicle is that often times its their process thats causing the most damage to their painted surfaces. In this HOW TO the correct process will be discussed as I attempt to help you all better understand what to do when you cleaning your vehicle. I will only be touching on the basic principles of the between detail washes. This thread will also be refined a bit more over the next few weeks as I add video and pictures... HAPPY WASHING! WHAT YOU'LL NEED: Process is more important than product, but one area you cannot skimp on is your 'durable' supplies. These are the things that will be used on every wash, over and over again. If they're properly taken care of you may never need to replace them. There are a lot of areas you can cut corners to save a buck, but this is not one of them. BUCKETS - At least 2 buckets. In order to execute the "2 bucket method" you'll need 2 buckets... thats pretty much a given. These should be good sized buckets that are either brand new or completely clean. Don't go grab your paster mixing bucket and start using it as a car wash bucket. GRIT GUARDS - Minimum of 1, but ideally 1 per bucket if you can. These handy little items are cheap ($10 at most detail supply stores/websites) and you'll never need to replace them. These guys keep the grit off of your mit. WASH MITS - Very important to go with a material that WILL NOT introduce new scratches to your surface. I am a firm believer that either sheep skin or microfiber are the only safe materials to use, but that is my opinion. Stay away from cotton terry mits, sponges, and any kind of brushes. ASSORTED BRUSHES - This area can get pricey if you go all out, but you can get selective and get just the ones you need to get the job done. Also select brushes that have ergonomically comfortable handles and give you multiple options for cleaning... if a brush can be safely used for multiple surfaces go for it. OXO makes a great assortment of automotive brushes that can be found online a number of place and at stores like Target. Suggested brushes to have: Tire brush - good for the tires, inner fenders, undercarriage, and any other durable surfaces. Typically a synthetic fiber and semi-coarse... look for one with a good handle that will allow you to reach the inside of the fenders and scrub easily. Stiff bristle brush - harder and stiffer than your tire brush, its always good to have a low profile stiff brush to scrub out the stuff that gets caked into the fenders. Guys who do burnouts will need one of these b/c a regular tire brush usually won't get the job done. Boars hair brush - a MUST HAVE if you are serious about detailing. BH is completely safe to use on every delicate surface of your vehicle. Its a natural fiber and when wet it WILL NOT SCRATCH. This is the best/easiest way to clean your wheels and even the painted areas of the inner fender. Bottle brush - find one with a flexible shaft. These are great for cleaning the inside hoop of wheels as you can bend them to fit into small crevices, between spokes, behind calipers, between coils of springs, etc. WAFFLE WEAVE MF DRYING TOWELS - Preferably you want undyed white WWMF towels but if undyed ones are not available just sure that you select a WAFFLE WEAVE drying towel, regular MF polishing towels are not effective for drying a car... you can easily tell them apart by looking at the surface... the WW towel will have a waffle pattern to it, a polishing cloth will not. ADJUSTABLE NOZZLE - To do the job right being able to control the flow of water is important. Ideally you want a nozzle that will do a hard stream, a shower, a mist, and a soaker. There are tons of quality nozzles out there. Check hardware stores, target, or even detail supply places for your options. SPRAY BOTTLES - Some products you'll learn to use will require you to "cut them" or dilute their strength with water. Having a couple of generic all purpose bottles w/ sprayers is a good idea. Either buy new ones or use empty bottles from other products, but if you decide to use these at least run them thru the dishwasher prior to using for other products. PRODUCTS: CAR WASH SOAP - This is all about personal preference. You want a car wash specific soap, dish soap is not intended for cars!! It strips any protection you may have previously applied and it dries out the paint over time causing additional damage. There are many many MANY good car soaps on the market... choose one that offers a lot of sudsing/foaming, high lubricity, and is a neutral pH. Its also usually a good idea to use a concentrate as you can adjust the strength by using more or less. On occasions where your vehicle is REALLY dirty or you've gone a long time between washes you can use slightly more to get more cleaning power out of it. Concentrates also can stretch your dollar a bit farther getting you more washes out of a single bottle than non concentrated formulas. ALL PURPOSE CLEANER - Again, personal preference. I stick with Simple Green as it is a cheap, readily available, highly concentrated, biodegradable product. You will be going thru A LOT of your APC so ideally you want something you can get easily at a local store or buy it in bulk if ordering thru an online dealer. Concentrated APC's also give you more for your money... you can dilute for mild cleaning or add more for heavier cleaning. QUICK DETAIL SPRAY - QD sprays aren't just for between wash cleaning... they can help prevent water spots while drying, be used as a clay lube, be used to prime applicators and buffing pads, etc. Having a good QD spray is essential. There are tons of sprays on the market, and this is another area of personal preference. PREP: Always have your stuff laid out and ready to go. Theres nothing worse than getting to a step in the process and realizing you don't have the right tools or product ready. Before you begin make sure you have these items ready: Rinse bucket - Filled with clean water... if you only have one grit guard this is the bucket you'll be placing it in Soap bucket - With the grit guard at the bottom place your mit in the bucket. Do not add soap or water at this point b/c you won't be using it right away, if the foam sits it begins to go flat, losing its effectiveness. Have your soap nearby and possible measure out how much you'll be using in advance. Drying towels - These should be freshly washed (liquid detergent only) and dried (no fabric softners) APC Solutions - In your assorted bottles w/ sprayers you should premix your APC to the strengths you'll need it. I typically cut my simple green into 2 bottles - 50/50 mix and 30/70 mix... the amount of cleaning you'll be doing and the severity of the grime are things to consider, as well as the type of surface you'll be cleaning. Untreated/raw billet for example is very sensitive to cleaners like this, a very mild mixture is suggested for this type of wheel. START WITH THE WHEELS: Most people just start a wash by hosing down the whole vehicle, but think about this... why introduce water, and potentially water spots to your paint before you need to?? Before water touches your paint START WITH THE WHEELS!! This is especially important for anyone who doesn't have a shady area to work in or if you work in direct sunlight. Starting with one wheel at a time use a heavy stream of water to hose as much of the loose brake dust and road grime from the wheels as possible. Also take a moment to spray inside the fenders completely to get any loose dirt and debris out. Once you are satisfied that you've gotten as much off with the hose as you can spray the tires and the inside of your fenders with your APC solution. Be generous, but try to let as little as possible run onto the rims. Also avoid getting any on your painted surfaces while spraying the inner fenders. Allow the solution to dwell on the surface for a moment. If you watch closely you'll see the cleaner actually start to break the dirt down. At this time you can also spray down the inside of the wheel hoop, any exposed suspension parts you want to clean (as long as they're not delicate) brake calipers, etc. Use the bottle brush to get into hard to reach places. Using your wheel brush scrub the tires and inside the fenders. Be careful not to drag the brush on your rims or any painted panels as you do this. If you have stubborn road grime or bits of burnout rubber in the fenders use the stiff bristle brush and more APC to get it all off. Once you are satisfied that you've gotten them clean rinse completely. Now taking your APC lightly mist it onto the rim and immediately agitate with your boars hair brush (OPTION - if you don't have a bhb a SEPERATE MF mit is a good substitute) rinse completely with a heavy stream of water. Be especially careful not to let any of the product settle and remain on the rims surface. Repeat this process for each wheel. THE WASH: Before you start on the paint get your soap bucket ready. Dump your soap directly onto the mit as it sits at the bottom of the bucket. Use a heavy stream of water to create a thick lather, the mit will help with this. Reach into the bucket and squeeze the mit to make sure all the soap is getting mixed. Keep in mind you want a thick, rich, lather... not a lot of big bubbles. PRE RINSE - Let the water do as much of the work as possible. Start from the top and work you way down to the lower rocker panels. Use a heavy stream of water to get any caked on dirt loose, also try spraying from multiple angles to make sure you've completely soaked the contaminants that are on the paint. SOAPING - Start at the top of the vehicle and work your way 1/3rd of the way down, 1 panel at a time. Be sure to rinse your mit in the rinse bucket between each panel and re-soap in the soap bucket. Use the grit guard in each bucket as a washboard. Drag the mit against it to loosen any particles that may have been picked up from the previous panel. DO NOT RINSE BETWEEN PANELS!! After the upper 3rd of the vehicle has been soaped move to the lower panels following the same one panel at a time process. For those washing a SSS a good 1/3rd reference point is the top of the body cladding... wash from the top to that line first, all the way around, the come back around to get the lower sections. RINSE - The first pass your goal is to get the vehicle completely wet, get as much of the soap off as possible and work top to bottom. Take your time and make sure to get soap out of any body lines, the mirrors, the cowl, or any other place soap may have collected. FINAL RINSE - Either turn your nozzle to the soaker setting or remove the nozzle from the hose. Using the stream of water pass the hose close to all surfaces to sheet the water off of the vehicle. Be careful the hose doesn't touch your paint, but use the water to PUSH as much of the beads off of the paint as possible. This will save you time in drying and also is a final step to make sure you've completely rinsed any soap or contaminants from the surface. Immediately pull the vehicle into shade or a garage if available. DRYING: Start by misting the entire vehicle with your quick detail spray. Be generous on horizontal surfaces. This step helps to eliminate spotting as well as helps lubricate the surface as you pull the towel over it, thus reducing the chance of swirls or scratches. Fold your WWMF towel into 4ths and dry your glass first... its easier to get spots off of paint than it is off of glass. Once the glass is done just work your way around one panel at a time and be thorough. If at any point the towel becomes contaminated or if you notice its picked up debris discontinue use and switch to a new towel. Try to work the towel in straight lines, circular motions can introduce minor swirls. So work in a straight line as much as possible. Also, be sure to use a separate towel for wheels and tires. WWMF drying towels are expensive and wasted on wheels and tires. Cotton terry towels are fine for your wheels and will help ensure your expensive WW towels stay usable for longer. TIP - If you have a compressor or a leaf blower they cut down drying time... use them to blow loose water off and out of crevices before drying.

HAHAHA!!

Thanks for all the compliments guys... makes the time and effort worth it to know you guys appreciate the work. Yup... I still have a fulltime (50+ hrs p/wk) job, a 10 month old son, a wife, 3 moderating jobs online... and somehow I still find time to do this. Don't ask me how I do it, cuz I honestly don't know. I knew there was some blue paint under there somewhere.... Probably gonna be out there for SEMA... I have a couple of friends who will have their cars/companies out there and they want someone to be there to detail em prior to the show and keep em looking good during... we'll see... it'll involve me taking time off of work and away from the fam, it might end up being a short trip. I'll lay down the initial detail and a guy I know doing the upkeep. All ready for you man... I'll make it worth your drive. I did... its still only part time and its not mobile... I just don't have the time to do more than I do now and I don't want to build another trailer yet to do mobile. Specifically... for the condition Chase's car was in... and the amount of work... normally that'd be a $250-$300 job.

Definitely need a section for all the detailing specific questions and posts... I don't think we need to over-divide it... really the basics of detailing apply to no matter what you're working on, street or show. If you guys would like me to oversee that forum I'd be more than happy to.

Better that we did that in your car than me finding out you did it in the TBSS while I was workin That was fun.

And in closing... congratulations Chase... your the proud winner of the DIRTIES RINSE BUCKET I'VE EVER HAD award How in the hell is a car so dirty it turns my rinse water BLACK?!?!?!

Now the fun part... its done... shiney and looking good. Got to go for a spin and take some pics, I love Camaro's and this car reminds me of why I want another one. We had a blast smokin' some guy in a WRX STI... wasn't even close. The proud owner of this blue beauty taking pics also: Remember those before shots of the wheels?? Still more comin....

All masked off and ready to start polishing After a pass with the DER Tuff Stuff on the white pad After (on the left) a pass with Adams S&HR + Revive Polish mixture on green durafoam pad next to unpolished surface... hows that for an improvment? After a little more time working the polish. DER Shiney really is my favorite on flake paint jobs... look at that flake pop!! I wasn't too familiar with the history of the vehicle so I didn't go crazy cleaning the engine bay, just some steam and a light brush + simple green got it pretty clean... not spotless, but clean. Now on to the interior... side by side... before and after... I really don't need to say much here STILL MORE PICS COMING....

Got a chance to take on Chase's daily driver today... as it is a daily I was expecting some serious dirt and grime... I wasn't disappointed. Chase witnessed the carnage first hand... the stream of black running out of my garage and into the street as I took on the wheels/tires/fenders... the "OH SHIT" Moment when he realized his seats were tan, not brown... but all worth it in the end. A very in depth "HOW TO" is coming... I just don't have the energy left to type it up tonight. EXTERIOR PROCESS - Wheel wheels/tires/rims cleaned with strong mix simple green & assorted brushes Foam gun'd the outside with Optimum Car Wash and let dwell for 5 minutes, rinsed w/o agitation Re-foamed the outside and let dwell for 2 minutes Washed one panel at a time w/ sheep skin mit + rinse bucket + grit guard Misted wet paint with Adams QD spray dryed with white WW MF drying towels Clayed w/ Adams med. grade clay + QD spray 1 pass of DER Tuff Stuff on white durafoam pad to completely clean surface 1 pass of my own personal mixture of Adams S&HR + Adams Revive Polish on green durafoam pad 1 pass of DER Shiney Stuff by hand All removed with Adams Premium Super-plush microfiber polishing cloths Trim treated with Adams VRT Wheels sealed w/ REJEX Wheel wells dressed with Adams Invisible Undercarriage Spray INTERIOR PROCESS - Leather cleaned with woolite concentrate + water mixture (some spots required SG mixture) Carpets cleaned with upholstery brush and Blue Magic carpet aerosol Adams VRT or In&Out Spray on dash, panels, plastic Leather conditioned with Adams Leather Conditioner Lets start with some before shots: OH THE HUMANITY!! :insane: Proof that washing alone will not remove all the contaminants from your paint. YOU NEED A CLAY BAR!! MORE PICS COMING....

You guys must move REALLY slow... it was over 90* and in direct sunlight when I foamed the black f150 I was working on earlier... had plenty of time to foam, let it dwell (about 1.5 minutes) and then aggitate one panel at a time, stopping to rinse the mit in fresh water between each panel and it never came close to drying on the surface.

Actually wouldn't need to reshoot the clear... if you do it right you can buff it back to perfect, but that takes a rotary... I'm contemplating taking that next leap and getting a rotary buffer... then I can literally correct any surface problem. I just need to get the nerve up to buy one and try it, theres such a small margin for error working with one, if you **** up you are REALLY ****ed... as in repainting a car b/c you buffed right thru the paint.... I also think I'm gonna invest in a paint ultrasound depth meter... not a good idea to go sanding down your finish unless you're sure you've got enough clear left to sand without hitting pigment.

As was posted Chris at www.GlimmerGlassDetailing.com Regular price is $57.99 I believe, but hes putting another GB together over there... I think the final price for it was $45 with the GB... hell of a price for a quality detailing tool. Don't worry... I'll blow a load on your truck too... how do you think I get that special shine out of the paint The gun comes with about 15 different metering valves so you could literally cut your soap flow down to next to nothing if you wanted... it all comes down to striking a balance... don't want to use too much soap, but you don't want to sacrifice lubricity, or cleaning power... I used a fairly high setting for this first test and went thru A LOT of soap... now that I know how fast it uses the soap with this valve I can adjust accordingly... first couple of times are going to be experimenting with the flow to find the right mixture. Good... I need a good test for this OCW... the TBSS was really dusty, but not dirty... can't wait to see how it emulsifies on a really dirty surface... if you want to hang around for a little bit I'd like to use the maro as a subject of an indepth how to... I need someone to take pics and notes while I work.