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I can't say for sure if the stock Magna tune will support a 3.0 pulley, that's a question for Bryan & crew. I would venture to guess that it probably would, but would do even better with a tune. However, even your current 3.3 would run better with a tune, but downsizing the pulley and retuning is a pretty common thing to do with these. As for the 122: Not sure why the 90mm TB wouldn't work on an '06, unless it's different from the earlier years. Let me elaborate though; Yes it IS true that it won't work if you just bolt it on and plug it in. There are a couple things you would need to change at the same time; You would of course first need to get a 90mm TB, a different TAC module to controll it, and a harness adaptor to plug it in, just like with any other year SSS. After that it should work, I just did it on my '03 no problem

Welcome! Where in So Cal are you?

That's a lot of truck for the money, and the work is already done. Good luck with the sale, sorry it has to go.

is the GT2-3 cam the cam that you have put in?? or going to?? What kinda of power are you looking at and all that if i can ask I have the GT2-3 in there now. I think it works well with the Radix, but would be too mild on a n/a vehicle. I did the cam at the same time as the 90mm throttle body and efans, so hard to say how much the cam alone added (LPE claims 30hp on a n/a motor). I picked up just over 100hp between those 3 things added to the Radix though, bringing the total at the crank to 630hp according to my tuner.

Now I'm a little confused. Your first post stated 370 to the wheels at dyno testing, but you now say Bryan guestimated 400-425. Did you have it dyno'd somewhere else after picking it up? With each .10" that you pulley down, you will increase boost by 1 psi. Each additional lb of boost gains an additional 15-20hp at the wheels. So if you go to a 3.0, you'd gain an additional 45-60hp. Or go with the 2.9 and add a custom tune and you'll pick up even more. It's a little late to bring this up now, but why didn't you go with the newly available bigger/badder MP-122?

Well my Silverado is 2006 equiped with the 5.3L. It is 2WD, I got a 2 wheel drive so I could smoke the tires. Yeah, the flowmasters are my only mod for now. Is it possible for a stock chevy to hit 105mph? Because I heard a lot are limited at 98 mph. Yeah, I had the truck since new. I bought about a year ago. I raced quite a couple of Silverados and I have only lost to a Silverado SS. I smashed on a modded 4.8L and mostly any Silverado that tried to race me. I thought the factory speed limitter was 98mph? If you hit 105, sounds like someone has maybe done some tuning...?

Did you ask Bryan or Jeff what they thought of the dyno #'s? Did they do a base run prior to the install to see how much was gained? They've done a lot of blower work, so I would start by talking to them. The first thing that comes to my attention though, is that you are running a pretty big pulley. I've heard/seen SSS Radix kits come with a few different pulley sizes for some reason. How much boost are you seeing with that 3.3? If you were to go down to at least a 3.0, you will pick up more power. I put on a 2.9 right off the bat, and am pleased with it. Some guys here even go 2.8 or 2.75, but that's a whole other discussion as to how small a pulley the Radix likes to see. Spin a Radix too slow and you're not getting max power, spin it too fast and it runs out of power. Another thing, did they use the stock Magna tune with the Superchips tuner, or did they do a custom tune while it was on the Dyno? The stock Magna tune is pretty conservative as it is designed to work in all weather conditions seen accross the country (below freezing to AZ summer) and meet the CARB cert, so a more aggresive custom tune suited to your particular truck and the climate in your area will yield more power also. Technically once you change the pulley or tuning though, you void the Magna warrantee FWIW.

Oh yeah, and 2 sticks of 5/16" wooden dowl to make sure the lifters stay up.

You will need: Front timing cover gasket - GM Timing cover crank seal - GM 2 water pump gaskets - GM Red Permatex gasket maker for bottom of cover Locktite 1 Gallon of Dexcool Few cans of brake cleaner just to wash off dirty parts prior to reassembly, I like the CRC in the green can I can find my receipt with GM part #'s when I get home, or go to LS1howto.com

As Big O mentioned, if you used a credit card you can take it up with them instead of Paypal - and probably get immediate results. If the CC company does a chargeback to Paypal, then I almost guarantee you will have PP's undivided attention because then they are out the money. I hear PP disaster stories like this quite often on the pinball newsgroup. Make no mistake on PP's intentions; They screw buyers and sellers, and are only in it for the fees. Hope it works out for you, depending on how you paid.

The trouble with repairing a chromed aluminum wheel, is that they have to dip the wheel in acid to remove the old chrome prior to rechroming it after the repair is made. The acid causes pitting in the aluminum, which will show through after the new chrome is finished. Thas is what happened to me when having a Niche aluminum wheel repaired/rechromed after the wife curbed it, which is why I suggested getting a used takeoff - plus a chrome 20 isn't very expensive...

I noticed the same low end loss when I put on my Magnaflow dual in/out way back when everything else was still stock, but after that I did a tune/CAI and it ran much better. Apparantly, a stock setup does need some backpressure and it is possible to have exhaust that is too free flowing, or "Under-engined". Which is funny, with the plethora of free flowing exhaust products/power adders out there, for this to be true. The free flowing "More air out" exhaust works best in conjunction with something putting "More air in". Therefore, your Radix plans for this system will work out well.

Did you actually bend the rim, or just scrape it up a little? Are we talking about a stock 20" SS wheel, or something else? If it's a bent stock rim, just buy a used take off from a member here. If it's scraped but not bad, you can sand it down smooth and repaint the bare area. Masking off the rest of the rim, it can be blended and hard to spot. EDIT I just saw that you have chrome stock 20's, so repair and rechroming might not be worth the expense. I would suggest buying a chrome takeoff from someone here that took theirs off.

I'll be the first to say that sucks. It would have been nice if he would have at least dropped it to below 90, which would make it a cheaper ticket. Here in CA you sometimes have to appear in court just to find out what the fine is for that speed. Get a Valentine 1, it costs $400 but is fairly equal to a hefty ticket after all the screwing around with fine, traffic school, and court costs. Mine has saved me multiple times...

I like my Belltech #5952 rear lowering leafs, and others have used them also with good results. No vibration and no shims required, easiy adjustable ride height +/- 3/4", rides a little firmer than stock but not bad, and no cutting of shackle/hanger rivets to install so they are easily reversable.

SS and all 6.0 trucks have the 34" radiator. If you don't get the parts you need, pm me for a couple different sources - GMPD being one of them.

Congrats, good times ahead! Damn 3 hours has got to be a new install record. Was that start to completly finished? Just be carefull, within 24 hrs of having mine on I got a ticket. The warning on the last page of the installation manual should not be ignored

$17k down, $355/month for 60 months at 0% int - purchased July '03. In hindsight, since I'm using their money for free, I should have financed the entire amount at 0% with nothing down and banked the $17k to get interest. I wasn't thinking along those lines at the time though, and didn't want a high payment.

One more pic. The tuner was able to calculate the total hp based on the air coming in vs what he read on the wideband, combined with what he's seen with dozens of cars/trucks on the dyno. So total gains according to what he saw was just over 100hp at the crank, bringing the new total to 630hp (at the crank). Substract AWD drivetrain loss, which I'm guessing at 75-100hp(?), that should put me in the 530-550 range at the tires. Definetly mods that you can feel! Anyone that wants to wake up their Radix should do this. You've already come this far, why not?

And those fantastic '05 efans

Another

I have the same gauge, and the harness plugged right into the electric sending unit. It's a weatherpack type plug, I'll take a pic later...

Asides from great looks, it lets heat escape at the rear cowl opening (you can actually see the heat coming out like looking over a hot stove). Since heat rises, and air is flowing through the engine compartment from my eletric fans, it helps release heat generated from the blower and headers. Also, I didn't transfer the stock hood insulation to the cowl hood so there is unobstructed flow. Although it may not be the function that the original creators of that style hood had in mind back in the late 60's, it does serve a purpose.

The truck style has the plastic side cover over the gears with the electric drive motor rotated 180 (looks similar to the stock 78mm but bigger), and the LS2/LS7 Corvette 90mm has a metal housing for the gears/motor, and the motor sticks out to the left (see pic).

I have been looking for something to get that nice new sparkly shine back on my polished amuminum wheels, and Mothers Aluminum polish just wasn't doing the trick anymore. These wheels were not pitted or weathered, just a little dull from normal washing etc. I didn't want to take the wheels off, dismount the tires, and send them in for re-polish, so I decided to try the Mother's Powerball polisher. It is a 5" round red soft foam ball consisting of many small fingers instead of a solid ball, so when you push it into tight detail areas it conforms to the surface, with a shaft to put in a power hand drill motor. The ball alone was $26 and the Mother's "Power Metal" polish was $10 for an 8 oz bottle, or they had a kit with both for $30 at Pepboys. I got the kit, half way thinking I would be returning it because it would suck, but was pleasantly suprised. First, I cleaned each wheel with Costco foaming glass cleaner like I usually do once a week. Then put the Powerball in a variable speed drill motor, sit on the ground in front of the wheel, squirt some of the polish on the lower 1/2 lip of the wheel, smear the polish all the way around the lip to spread it a little (prevents excessive spatter), then start polishing. Keeping the drill at medium speed, and moving the ball around and around slowly, the ball started turning black pretty quickly. After only about 5 minutes per wheel, I buffed the polish off by hand with a Costco yellow microfine towel and was pretty impressed. The dull/whitish appearance was gone, and the damn near sparkly appearance of new wheels was back! I did a little touchup here and there with the drill/ball and buffed it again by hand, then wiped the inside of the wheels and brakes clean and put some shiney tire stuff on to finish it off. Beautiful! Doing this by hand using the regular AL polish would take much longer, been much more labor intensive, and not work as well. I know some of the guys here have had their bare Aluminum wheels professionaly repolished and then cleared, but I didn't want the down-time, expense, and dissasembly of the wheels (these are 3 piece). So for a quick and easy fix, I give the Powerball