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There's a guy on performancetrucks.net selling a used set for around $575 right now...

Ok, I am fully aware that if I have a motor/tranny issue, the warranty work probably won't be covered. I was more talking about accessory stuff, such as the A/C, heated seats, radio, etc. I mean, the dealer can't possibly refuse warranty work on something totally unrelated to the drivetrain simply because I have a blower installed, right? I hope not. I agree, and that's why I kept my warrantee intact instead of cashing it out. If the AC goes out, for example, that can get expensive fast. An interesting fact I learned when I was looking into cashing out my extended GMPP warrantee though (thinking I wouldn't be able to use it, and putting the $ towards the blower); The extended warantee starts when the car is NEW and overlaps the 3/36, it does not wait until the 3/36 warantee expires. SO, say if you decide you don't want to keep your extended warantee before the 3/36 is up, and want to cash it out. You won't get back the entire cost of the warantee, it will be pro-rated from the date you bought the vehicle. Nice, huh? So, it almost doesn't pay to get the extended warantee at the same time you buy the vehicle, as you can add it anytime before the 3/36 expires. The only benefit to getting it when the car is new, is that you can roll it into your financing

My mom and her husband just got one, and they like it so far. They got the "LT2" option package, which has a little bit larger engine powered by a rat instead of a hamster, bigger wheels (from a shopping cart instead of furniture dolley), and sport suspension (gas shocks instead of wet noodles). Just being silly, of course, but compared to what we're used to it's kind of a toy. But seriously; It has a suprising amount of legroom up front for a tall (6-2) person without being a contortionist, which was a selling point for them. It looks kinda cool, and sitting inside looking through that short windshield gives it the feeling of driving a 30's hotrod (which was the intention of its creators I gather). There is also a 2 door panel version available, according to the website, but I've never seen one on the street. It has decent power, from what little I rode in it, and is supposed to get good gas mileage - a plus nowdays. The 2 people in the front seat sit much closer together than what you feel in a full size Silverado though, which I don't care for (think S-10). Also, it seems like Chevy's (late) answer to the PT Cruiser question that nobody asked.

I used a giant Crescent wrench; Put it on the nut and wack it with a dead blow hammer, 2-3 hits and it should spin loose (leave the belt on to help hold it a little)

I was just messin' with ya, of course this does suck. I wonder though; If this dealership cancelled your wheel order, will that cancelled order show up when another dealer pulls up your VIN service/warrantee history to place another order - causing them to be leary of helping you out either? Just a thought, maybe some of the GM guys here can chime in on that...

You're just silly, gettin all excited about your new hat. Pretty soon, you'll have a whole stack of 'em - that's when you'll know you're in trouble!

Hmmm, note to self: Next time wait until AFTER the transaction is completed before threatening to do something which will reflect badly on the dealer.

*I* think it sounds high, but then again I've been accused of "busting balls" on shops' labor quotes. I know I can do the work myself, but sometimes I would rather have someone else do it until I hear the price - then end up doing it myself anyways. Does this price include having them dyno tune it? I installed my Dynatechs with a mech buddy starting late on a Friday afternoon in about 3 hours, and then we installed the Radix the following Sat from 9-5 - and we had never done one before. We had a lift and air tools, which helped a lot doing the headers from the bottom with the wheels and wheel-wells removed, and took our time and did it right. I've heard reports of 4 hour Radix installs, but this wasn't one of them. It just comes down to how much is your time worth, and if you want to mess with it. BTW, what makes you think the dealer will honor your warrantee if you have these guys do the install? The mech friend that helped me with my install WORKS at the dealer, and I know that if I got towed in with a blown motor/trans they wouldn't honor my extended warantee. In fact, I asked the service manager before the install and he told me straight out that he wouldn't (guess I'll have to get it towed somewhere else ;) ). It really depends on the dealership, and there are 3 ways it can play out: 1 - If business is slow, they can do a blower-induced repair and play it cool because they need the work - unless you broke something really expensive and a GM rep has to come out to approve it, which could spell trouble. 2 - They can charge you only the additional time/labor to remove the equipment you added, and have the warrantee cover the rest. 3 - They can take one look at that blower and say "Sorry, can't do it". And if you want to jump up and down with the Magnusson-Moss warantee act in this case, be prepared for an uphill battle. 4 - Remove your blower etc before taking it in, and play stupid.

Tell them you'll change the exhaust, but you are getting a Harley with straight pipes j/k of course. It's very considerate of you to do this. Much easier and more peasant to have good neightbors than bad ones.

Another Goodmark Cowl

Have you driven it to see if there's a power difference? My GT2-3 idles like stock or maybe even a little smoother, but I can tell a power difference when driving - and it's only a 207-220. With the specs you are listing, I would think you should hear a difference. Did you look at the end of the cam prior to installation for marks/engraving showing what it is, as the other guys mentioned? If not, maybe pull the timing cover/cam gear/retainer and have a peek Kinda sucks to have to drain the rad and pull it apart again, but at least you'll know what you got. Or let the tuner give his opinion first.

It is mostly noticable when you put your foot in it. More pedal = more noise, so when you floor it, it sounds like a fire truck siren. Just cruising around, you can hear a little whine.

Are talking about the ones at the rear of the J tube bend by the firewall, or the ones just behind the TB?

I do not care for this hood. When I was shopping around looking at all the different styles available, I thought this one looked like there was a big piece of Tupperware sitting on a stock hood. The front inner U shaped lines are too exaggerated IMO. If you like it though, that's all that matters since it's your truck

If you're local and can go pick it up, it might be worth looking into. He's in Ventura FWIW, which is pretty damn close to the Magnuson factory. As I understand it though, the 122 is not sold with any tuning device - and this guy's description states that a tuner is included...? Also, a quick look at that auction now and earlier shows it was relisted and the BIN price went from $5400 to $6800!

I used 5/16" wooden dowls, which worked great.

I used a Magnaflow 12568 to go in place of my stock muffler, retaining all the stock pipes. I went with Magnaflow because it's supposed to be quiter than Flowmaster, but it turned out to still be pretty loud but with a smoother mellow tone. Yes there is some drone, but I've heard worse. At cruise it definetly has a nice impact/presence, then it "Sounds like a race car when the boost comes up" as one friend said (in a good way), and "Scary at startup" as another commented. Longtubes didn't help things get any quiter, but cruising on the freeway at 80 it sounds near stock. If I were to do it over again, I might eliminate the Y pipe and go with a dual/in single out Mag #12587 or #12588. The 2 3" pipes coming out is what made it so loud (according to M-F) and might have caused the loss low end power I noticed when the engine was stock because it breathes TOO well. Plus having the internal X pipe in the muffler followed by the Y pipe after the muffler seems kind of reduntant.

This is with the MTX Thunderform dual 10" box, where they provide a nice amp mounting area...

Dual 2.5" in, dual 3" out - IIRC.

Changing only the shocks will not change the ride height. Go back to bed and try again

Flashing CEL usually indicates a misfire, which is right in line with the strange idle/vibration you are describing. Random misfire is usually more prevelant at higher rpms though, not at idle, and are a sign of a burnt plug wire. Do you have headers, which can cook plug wires if not routed correctly? Not sure about the truck winding out before shifting though, but I have had that happen once in a great while too. None the less, the dealer should ba able to read a code in the pcm's memory now, showing the problem. Just have them write it up for intermittent flashing CEL.

I sit here reading this with a can of Coke on the desk, looking over at it now from time to time...

I remember years ago when I had a 70 Chevelle SS with an LS6, I could run more timing with no ping if I filled it up with "Trick" racing gas - which I think was around 100 or 105 octaine. It cost what seemed a fortune at the time, $4.xx/gallon, but it sure ran nice.

According someone who recently tuned a Vette with a 122, it can produce more boost than the 112.

That sucks, but at least the police came out and did something and gave you some encouraging words. Here in LA, if you were to call the police about that, they would say "SO?" - and that would be after being on hold for 10 minutes! Also, you're kind of lucky the jackass didn't wipe out the entire side of your truck, if he got that close to whack the mirror...