Black2003SS

I thought about one too, I just dont fit right in them...theres a reason I have a big a$$ truck...just dont get a mod bug... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zM3RC_Y4aXs&NR=1 At that point though, might as well just buy the hayabusa.

We are all in the same boat and it is only a matter of time before drastic changes are made on an international level. It is the result of a greedy "global" economy. Our incomes are dropping as third world countries incomes are increasing. Its basically a leveling effect. When our economy was its own pond, our level of our pond was dictated by our own actions. Same with those third world countries. When we started shipping jobs over seas, price of goods didnt go down, they remained the same. Those countries started demanding higher salaries as "slave labor" is banned in those countries. So our cost of goods continue to rise. The "global" economy effect basically dug a ditch between their pond and ours. Their pond level was MUCH lower than ours. Well, we all know what happens, water seeks an equal level. So our pond has been draining for years, filling theirs up to our level. This has been happening for about 30yrs or so. US personal income has been decreasing for over 20yrs as cost of living has risen. It really sucks. We truly need to shut our borders to trade, and quite frankly, I see a new revolution (not a violent one though) re-establishing unions, sit-ins, etc. When someone in Washington, an economist, stated that permanent employment no longer exists, you know we have destroyed this country from an economic standpoint. Pensions are gone, thing of the past, and many many folks no longer ahve 401ks as they have liquidated them to either survive or maintain lifestyles they were used to. I could rant on for hours and hours on this subject myself. I work as hard or harder than I did 5yrs ago, and have less to show for it. You are right though, raises, on average around 3-5% are not keeping pace with the true cost of living. If someone who made $50k 10yrs ago and received 5% raises every year (we all know this doesnt even happen anymore, sometimes facing pay cuts), they would now be making in the realm of $61-62k per year doing the math in my head, maybe a tad more. But gas has almost tripled in that timeframe. Gas and electric bills have doubled. Cable costs have doubled or tripled, especially with high speed internet and phone costs. Costs of homes have gone up, even though those are finally starting to come down to reasonable levels and I personally feel from an economis sense that home prices falling are a leading indicator of things to come. I dont think we are out of the woods, I think the last 3yrs are just the tip of the iceberg, especially with Washington (read into neither political party, but Washington as a whole) spending us into oblivion. Take a fresh look at Japan and their linguiring recession for over 10yrs and now at Spain with 19% unemployment, then take a look at CHINAS screaming economy and job growth. WTF did people think were going to happen? Yeah, those jeans we all wear made in Taiwan and China? We sold out our country, plain as day. Manufacturing is a thing of the past. Manufacturing was the backbone of our middle class economy. When you cut out the backbone of anything, it can no longer live.

Contact Leading Edge Performance or Zippy on the board, they are site sponsors. They can help you with everything you need, including torque converters in your price range, cam selection, and mail order tuning to accomplish your goals. There are other great options out there as well if you want to do your own custom package. Yank, PI, Circle D, all make good converters. I think your goals of a 14.1-14.2 are not unrealisitc as many have hit those numbers even without a cam. Just keep in mind, these trucks are great, but if you are on a tight budget, be warned that things can and do unfortunately go wrong like blown transmissions, differential troubles, etc. Also take into consideration the age of your vehicle and the current miles you already have on it.

Fireman31 above has a performabuilt and seems to be pretty happy with it as well. I think you will find that not only cost might be an obstacle, but also how quickly you need the trans. I think performabuilt was the quicket turn around time. When I was trans shopping, almost two years keep in mind, FLT had a 1-2month wait. Rossler was over a month wait, and Performabuilt was only two weeks. I have no clue what the wait times are now for any of these shops though, you would have to call them to find out.

I would avoid a used stock 4L65E, especially for that price. If I recall, you could get a nice rebuild from Sprayed99's father for not much more than that with excellent internals. FLT, Rossler, and performabuilt are all nice units as well, but you will be well north of $2k for each. Most of the units are warrantied for a period of time. A 4L80E swap could run you upwards of $3-4k if you use a stock unit, more if you purchase a performance built unit. I think with your mod level, you could probably get away with a 4L65E from one of the performance shops. Best advice I can give is do it right the first time because if you scrimp now, you might pay more later. I chose a local shop who provided a warranty and they stood behind their product when it went out again on me. It still ended up costing me what a stocker 4L80E would have cost. But I also understand that a budget is a budget and that has a huge affect on the decision process. Keep in mind, some of the biggest cost is removal and installation, about $400-600 depending on the shop.

It's either a pressure or friction problem. Most likely friction. It sounds like to me that your 2nd clutch pack might be going or gone. Do you have similar symptoms when you try to go from 2-3 gear or 3-4 4-3? Only to fix it is to have the trans pulled and cracked open or replaced with a built one. What power mods do you have? Depending on your power level, I would suggest swinging for a 4L80E swap now rather than mess with the 4L65E. I wish I had.

Great fact find. I've been to DC dozens of times. It certainly is a moving Ceremony. I was honored to be a guest at the annual Memorial Day Wreath Laying Ceremony at Arlington in 1997 or 1998, guest of the Clintons. Family had breakfast with the Clintons and others (about 200-250 guests probably in total) at the White House, then proceeded over to Arlington for the ceremony. An event I will never forget. Sat next to an Admiral of the Navy. Met Bob Dole also. I still have the picture of Bill Clinton shaking my hand at the breakfast and family picture taken with the Clintons. And yes, they had egg and cheese muffins, of higher quality than McDonalds of course though. Found that comical. Washington DC is a must do trip at least once for everyone.

You're absolutely right. I think $350 for a used converter is a waste of money. My TT2600 has 40k miles on it and I wouldnt ask near that much, but I dont know if it can be re-stalled to what you need. If you are going to spend $350 on a used converter, Yank is going to charge you $150 for a cut, clean, and re-stall at minimum, and $50 shipping ground each way, you just spent $600 for a used converter when you can get a new TT3000 for $575. I love both of my Yank converters, but if you cant find something to fit your application in your price range, you can always contact Leading Edge Performance (they are a site sponsor now and Zippy also works there now). They mentioned in another thread that they have performance converters starting in the $450 range too. Never hurts to look around at your options.

I paid $400 in Cleveland, OH in 2006 to have a Yank converter installed. Most shops will charge $350-600 to install.

Possibly, but Yank will custom stall any converter to a clients specs. They dont make a SC2600 on the website, but he stalled one down for me. It wouldnt hurt to ask if it can be stalled up over 3000, I dont know if can or not. However, with that being said, depending on how much power you are putting it behind, I would re-consider looking at the billet converters, all of which are in the $900 range though. The TT series converters are a factory type design and could be more prone to failure. Best bet is to call Yank and speak with them. They will answer all of your questions honestly. Tell them what you want and your price range, they will do their best to get you what you want. They always returned my calls promptly the same day as well. Turn around time for the cut and clean was 48 hours, as they promised.

I just had my Yank SC2600 cut and cleaned for $150. I doubt a re-stall would be much more. I think he said that he would have re-stalled it while there if I wanted it done, but I'm not 100% positive on that. You're looking at $50 minimum for shipping each way as well so take that into account when a new one is only in the mid $400 range to begin with. Also, a new lockup clutch for a yank is $80 (quoted for my cut and clean, but mine didnt need one). If that TT3000 falls through, I have a TT2600 with about 40k miles on it. We can talk price if you want it.

Also, it doesn't come with a torque converter for that price I think. I'd have to read more about it though first. Also, anything else that goes along with doing a regular 4L80E swap. I'm not a 4L80E swap expert, but the info is on this website with a quick search.

More than what a 4L80E conversion costs...Isn't there a msrp posted on TCI's website? I thought I remember the cost of the entire kit being around $5-6k. EDIT: after adding it to the cart at the link above, it says $4,671.19 including everything.

Don't like the Buick Rainier? Same frame/truck as TB, but with the 5.3L. Your best bet is to do research. Go to edmunds.com and look at the specs and read the reviews for the vehicles you are looking for. You would be surprised that like the older models 4.7L Jeep GC has only 235hp, but the I6 4.2L has 265-285hp depending on the year. I pulled up some specs on some of the models you are considering...I already had this done for my own research since I am looking for a similar vehicle for similar reasons. 2005 Buick Rainier 6cyl. CXL http://www.edmunds.com/used/2005/buick/rai...0692/specs.html 2004 Chevy Trailblazer LT 4x4 http://www.edmunds.com/used/2004/chevrolet...4645/specs.html 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe LT 4x4 http://www.edmunds.com/used/2002/chevrolet...2789/specs.html 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 4.7L V8 - torquey little bastard...but weak on HP. 2005 is the first model year of the new body style. http://www.edmunds.com/used/2005/jeep/gran...7049/specs.html 2007 Chevrolet Equinox - 3500lb towing capacity, more car like than TB, Tahoe, etc. 185hp, getting closer to that 20mpg fuel economy than the others. If 3500lbs is all you need to tow, this might be an option as well. My dads high school best friend tows his 16ft deep hull fishing boat all over Michigan with his Equinox and has never had an issue. We even took it on our salmon fishing trip last summer and was comfortable with 3 big guys in it plus fishing gear. http://www.edmunds.com/used/2007/chevrolet...1140/specs.html 2003 Nissan Xterra 4x4 old body style http://www.edmunds.com/used/2003/nissan/xt...5730/specs.html 2005 Nissan Xterra 4x4 New body style. Huge improvement over old one. http://www.edmunds.com/used/2005/nissan/xt...5800/specs.html

Was there enough fluid in the T case? Sometimes that rear seal can leak if not properly seated.

Thank you guys for all of your help. Zippy hit the nail on the head as usual. The trans shop called last night and filled me in. While we were figuring it out over here, the master builder there (he doesnt do the installs, they have an installer only) had discovered a blown fuse that was causing the codes. He also discovered that the installer did in fact damage the connector and it was shorting out, causing the fuse to blow. They replaced connector free of charge. They are now able to dial the trans in and I should have the truck back tomorrow. I also was able to get HPT working and did reflash the pcm just for the heck of it, not that it made any difference. Sometimes I just panic and think that I might get taken advantage of, but these guys have really bent over backwards to make this thing work.

Like Dan said. You should be fine on your own with a floor jack. You might not even need that. I forgot what it weighed, but I know its alot less than a TH350 trans and I've installed those on my back with no assistance at all. Lying there, on my back, with a TH350 resting on my chest, bench pressing it up into my camaro...those were the days.

You will regret the Jeep GC without a warranty. The Trailblazers get 16 city and 20hwy. And they have a bullet proof 4.2L inline 6. Also, Stitches is right about the back seat, very little leg room and even less head room. I didnt see your budget until after my lengthy post, but then a higher mileage Envoy, a TB LTZ, or Bravada are pretty much in your budget range. I dont think you will regret it.

Good luck. My front diff went around 60k too on my 03. The gears were ok. It seems 9 times out of 10 they are unless the groans are allowed to continue for several thousand miles. I wish I knew what the shop did, but they made some modification to it prevent premature failure because of a design flaw. I didnt open it up myself so I cant say exactly what it was.

Jeremy, I have been looking around for the same option myself. I have also considered some of the same vehicles. I am absolutely ruling out the Jeep Grand Cherokees unless you get a long warranty. Everyone I talk to has endless issues out of warranty, trans, electrical, and not to mention the V6's are pathetically weak for pretty much any towing. My fiance has a 2005 trailblazer LS. We picked it up for $9k with 50k miles on it. 4x4, cloth interior, sunroof, tow package. She has 80k on it now and no issues with it. The I6 pulls my 3500lb bass boat with no problem so jet skis would be no issue. I just wish it had leather interior. The cloth seats are not a joy on long road trips (nothing like the SS anyways, but better than your current DD). When I sell the SS, I am planning to replace it with a GM 360 platform vehicle as well (Envoy, TB, 9-7x, Rainier, Bravada). What I really want is an Envoy Denali. It has the 5.3L with 300hp but also has DOD. It runs on regular so its not bad on the freeway and is really luxurious on the inside. It would be my first choice, but finding a nice one with decent miles will run me high teens at best and I am trying to keep it under $15k so I can get another toy car (Lsx based, most likely a C6). I have found several TB LTZ's which are loaded up for $10-13k with under 80-90k miles on them. Also, the Envoy SLT's are 4x4 and loaded up as well, but are still the 4.2L I6. If you really want to save some coin, you could check out the Oldsmobile Bravada which they stopped making in 04 (02-04 are the same as the TB, except awd and come with the 4.2L only). I dont particularly like the Bravadas because of the full time awd (mpg's suffer as a result) and well, styling isnt as appealing as the Envoys and TB's. The other ones I was looking at are the Saab 9-7x's as they have an available V8, look much better than the Bravada, but they are still up near $20k for one in decent shape. There is also the Buick Rainier CXL which if you look hard enough, you can find one for under $15k with the available 5.3L V8. I'm pretty much about reliability for towing and all of my outdoor activities. These are all smaller, easy to park, better on mpg's (better than even the Jeeps), etc. I would consider another Avalanche, but lets face it, the 4L6XE in a full size GM behind an even stock V8 is a ticking time bomb, plus the Avalanches in my price range I want to spend, dont have DOD (I dont think it was available until 07 on them from myunderstanding). I suppose like anything else, it boils down to your budget (cash or credit as well), how much you really want to tow, how many miles you want starting out on a used vehicle, etc. One other vehicle I have considered if I dare say, was the Nissan Xterrs. Nice little package. Powerful V6's since the re-design in 2005 with 4x4 available, rugged and tough looking, somewhat rare (at least around here), and a 5,000+ lb towing capacity (AND AN AVAILABLE 6SPEED MANUAL for a little more fun factor). Only thing is no leather, no heated seats, and I have heard questionable things about reliability. And most examples I find are are just above the $15k range. The previous generations seem to turn into rust buckets, that also seems to scare me a little bit. I think the best all around package seems to be the Envoy SLT 4x4. Its cheap, it looks good, sufficient power, good mpg's for an SUV, leather, bose available, ride is good, handles like a dump truck, but it is an SUV. It will most likely be my next DD as I seach for my new project this summer.

I have to say to do the 4L80E at this point. I don't think any 60 series trans no matter how strong or well built will hold up to more than 450-500hp at the crank in a 5,000lb truck. Every trans builder I have ever spoken to that wasn't trying to sell me a trans (like FLT, performabuilt, rossler) say that our trucks should have had the 4L80E in them. I think I was fortunate to get 37k miles out of my build before it went out again. I dont know though how many FLT's and others out there are running around with more than 40k miles on them, I'm sure they exist, but as long as you stick with the 60 series trans, plan on replacement every 40-50k miles most likely. Thats just my opinion, as misguided as it might be. There is a reason why so many drag cars out there switch to the 80E or the TH400, because they last. I really wish I had spent the money to do it the first time also. Its just not an option for me any longer.

Well thats the thing. The trans cooler and lines were flushed. They cleaned the pump, cleaned the valve body twice. Replaced and inspected everything. I even sent the converter out to yank to be cut and cleaned, which it was. I suppose that what will happen is either retuning the truck will solve it and if it doesn't, then it will throw it back on the shop to figure it out. This really sucks too because I have a buyer for the truck lined up, but I think he might be backing out with all of the issues I'm having getting it back on the road. I don't blame him at this point. However, the good news is that it is just a machine and there is a solution, just have to find what it is. I am leaning towards a possible install error myself or a short in the wiring if the tune doesnt fix it.

Actually, yes. I just came from the trans shop and got into work. My laptop with windows XP took a dump so re-writing the tune or pulling codes was out. HP Tuners was on the laptop. I spent the weekend trying to get my laptop fixed to no avail. The hard drive is toast. Thank god I backed up my HPT files in email folder on my yahoo account. I was able to borrow my fiances fathers laptop with windows Vista. I installed HPT on it this morning, but am having issues with the drivers, which I have researched on the HPT forum and downloaded the correct drivers. I should have HPT working later tonight. The trans issue. I spoke with the master builder there. He said that they have eliminated the trans as the issue and say it must software related because they have a diagnostic tool called Trans X? He said that when they plug that into the trans, it replaces the vehicle pcm. The trans shifts fine with it. When they hook up my vehicle pcm, it throws trans codes (listed below) and the high pressures and hard shifts come back. So we are going to try to re-write the pcm first with zippy's tune. I looked over the tune file this morning and it looks good. Its basically stock parameters for the tune. Here are the codes the pcm is throwing: P0713 Trans Temp Circuit P0740 - Torque Converter Solenoid Clutch P0785 - 3-2 Shift Timing Solenoid P1860 - Torque Converter Clutch PWM Solenoid Circuit Being at work, I'm at a loss to research these right now. We did unplug the battery to try to reset the pcm and that did not work, so we will try to re-write the software onto it. If that doesn't work, I'll be at a loss myself. Also, when the codes are cleared out by their snap-on diagnostic tool (how we got the codes since HPT wasnt working yet), the codes come right back. Yet, when they hook up trans X, the codes dont come up.

My built trans had about 37k miles on it and the 3-4clutch pack went out on it (it had been slipping for about a 1k miles). I lost 3rd and 4th gears, but still had reverse, 1st, and 2nd. The shop was great in the fact that they agreed to cover some of the cost of repairs even though the 24k mile warranty had expired. They agreed to do a refresh for $1,000 including pulling the trans, R&R and replacing all friction components inside. When they first built the trans in 2008, it was great. 1-2 shift was firm and crisp, but not obnoxious. The 2-3 and 3-4 were also fine. The truck ran well, far better than the stock one. I do a lot of highway driving and towing with a boat so they think thats what might have caused the 3-4 clutches to burn up. They were toast, I was able to inspect them. The 2nd clutch pack was in great shape. No hard parts failed. Also, I sent the torque converter out to be cut and cleaned. When they installed the trans in 2008, one thing they stipulated was that they wanted the tune returned to stock pressures for the trans (basically stock settings). I called up zippy and told him what they put in the trans (transgo HD2, 2600 stall, blue clutch packs, superior servos, etc.) Zippy said no problem and he whipped up the file in short time and got it to me. Again, nothing wrong for 37k miles. Here is the problem. The truck has been down 3 weeks now (1.5 of that due to shipping the converter out and getting it back). The trans shop calls me yesterday and tells me they were having some issues with the blue clutch packs being too thin for the drum? So they said at no extra cost, they ordered Alto red clutch packs? The cost was a little more, but they werent charging me for it. Well, then I call them today and they tell me that they dont like the way the trans is shifting now. The builder said the pressures were too high and that they needed to pull the valve body and inspect it. They do, and then said they dont see nothing wrong with it. So then they asked me about the tuning, which I havent touched since I loaded up zippy's update in 2008. They want me to bring HPTuners over and try loading the file up again, but I dont think thats the problem. From a logical stand point, if the trans worked for 37k before with the tune that was in there, it should work fine now if there were no issues with the trans itself right? They said that they are seeing 200psi on the 1-2 shift when it should be near 90 (which I recall from my limited knowledge to somewhat correct). The builder said he had called transgo and they advised on some modification on the drum where he had to drill out a bleeder hole on the drum (open it up more) to help flow and prevent 4th clutch pack burnout. I'm clueless on that one, or if I'm even explaining it right, but thats what I took away from it. Truthfully, I was paying much attention because I have alot on my plate elsewhere right now. I just trusted these guys to get it fixed. I believe these guys want to make it right and not rip me off as they never have (last trans only cost $1,600 plus install). They have proven to stand behind their work even when they didnt have to. I have sent them business and they know it, and want me to keep sending them business. I'm just at a loss right now on what to do. I dont think reflashing the pcm is going to solve the problem, because the same pressures zippy programmed will still be there. Is it possible that the valve body is bad and they just dont realize it? Any constructive criticism would be appreciated with exception of ordering a Rossler or FLT because I just cant afford it right now. Maybe Danny, Mr. P, or even Zippy can provide some guidance. Thanks.