kelleyperformance

the screen is far more important than anyone realizes... people do run with it out, but it can cause fuel trims to be out of proper range, idle issues, etc. i either run them stock with screen, or run our KP custom 4"/100mm MAF ^thats the LPE version, we make our own that is a lot cheaper (because it doesnt say LPE on it )

are you running actual TBSS wheels, like 6x5....?

IMO the size you were running is too small... i never go below 31" on anything other than a RCSB. the 285/50 sounds like a good size for your setup. i wouldnt go any smaller. and the toyo proxes is a great tire, one of my favorite truck tires

looks better, you def needed the drop lol

yeah what it comes down to is this- if your 03-04' youll need to reprogram your IPC (cluster) and you will need a BCM from an 05-07' in addition to needing a PDM (pass. door module) from an 05-06' tahoe w/ TPM.. if you have an 05-07', all you will need is the tahoe PDM, and obviously 4 TPM sensors from the same vehicle, 05-06' tahoe. the last step is to use a Tech II scan tool to enable the TPM in the PDM, and program the TPM sensors to the PDM via a TPM tool or the method of letting 2 psi or more of air out of each tire, from front left-front right-rear right-rear left. (first, before programming, set the truck into learn mode- turn key ON, then flip lights from off to park 4 times. the truck will honk, signaling it is in learn mode. then follow what i said before- use the TPM tool or let the air out to activate sensors. truck will honk each time a sensor is learned, followed by two honks after the last tire is programmed signaling it is complete. turn off truck and thats it!) once programming is complete, you have TPM!! and if you followed my instructions above, it will read on the DIC the tire pressure in addition to setting a low tire light when you have a low tire.

EDIT: i just reread your original post- the way your tuner said to run, if i read your post right- he is saying to leave the passenger side stock (pass. valve cover to intake tube/throttle) and take the driver side (from driver valve cover to manifold) and put a catch can inbetween, correct? if this is how he is telling you to run it on an NA setup thats stock/bolt-ons, this is ALSO correct. it isnt until boost or higher power levels that a breather / deleting pass. side OE setup is neccesarry. what is important to know- NEVER block off the PCV and JUST run a breather- that will cause serious issues down the road Mr. P knew his stuff, its a shame he isnt around anymore. the first way you said to run a CC, is correct. for an NA setup, you should run a CC between the driver side valve cover and the intake manifold. if your car/truck still has the PCV inlet on the valley, under the throttle, your going to run a line from the valley and T it into the line BEFORE the catch can, coming from the driver valve cover. this way you can evacuate the crankcase gases even more effiecently. NOW that we have the evacuation covered, we need to get the fresh air in, to push the old air out towards the CC and manifold. SO you have two choices- you can either: run a second CC between the passanger valve cover and the intake tube OR you can run a ONE WAY valve breather cap (revxtreme.com) on the passanger valve cover and cap off the intake tube and the pass. valve cover. the only issue with running the breather is you need to retune your PCM (you dont HAVE to but it will throw your fuel trims off a bit) becuase your PCV is hooked from the driver valve cover to the manifold, and you have a breather on the passanger side- this is basically a small vaccumn leak that runs air through the engine and into the manifold, AROUND the MAF causing the PCM not to measure it. as long as you have under say 650 WHP or under 10-12 psi boost, you can use the setup mentioned above. running the dual catch cans WITHOUT a breather is just fine if you dont have the ability to retune easily. if anyone has any questions about PCV setups or anything like this, please feel free to give me a shout- PM, text, whatever. your PCV system is VERY important to your engines longevity, HP, and in preventing gasket leaks (boosted engines mostly). i would like to make a thread on PCV setups for every type of engine setup, if we can get it sticky'd that would be helpful as i have posted in over 4 PCV questions threads just this week.

its about time we have another SSS calender i know the quality isnt great cause theres not much light-

thats a common misconception that because a sub has a huge voice coil and large heavy magnet, its not going to play anything well just pound. i have found in my own cars and customers alike, one of the best responding subs we use is one of the largest (JL W7). thats going to hit hard in the little cab, and like Shawn said the roof flexes BAD with bass. i have two full layers of dynamat on it and mine still moves some. dont forget the pics of it installed

maybe if your a masochist

thanks thank you for getting that GP together, came out really nice

got my first one out of four in last night, love them i like them in the doors i just wanted to do something a little different might do one that hits under the center of the hood when open, other two i dont know yet...

thanks the grille is a Street Scene Speed grille, which i color-matched to my Ultra Silver Metallic.

thats a good point. i didnt see any provisions in your pics for flushing so i was thinking maybe a lucky individual would get to dump it lol. how bad would it be if someone was sitting on it and the fire hose just so happened to pressurize...

i think what he was suggesting with the bags would be instead of the trouble/expense of fabricating a coilover setup. it is nice that coilovers offer the full adjustable like your saying, but you would have to get under the truck, get the truck off its weight just to adjust the height for towing. thats why i said +1 for the helper bags, you can do it from the drivers seat

those do look ALOT like Eagle 026's. just look at the center of the wheel, its IDENTICAL. the only difference is just the bead around the spokes, between the lip and the spokes. those wheels dont have anything, the spoke goes right into the lip, the 026 has like a simulated 2/3 pc. bead between lip and spoke. id think it would look just like this

i might go for the wheels by themselves... and i think Andrew/K.P.VHO might be interested in the tires. PM sent

so who gets to clean that thing out?

2WD, which i regret lol... little did i know how much money i would throw at this truck, was like eh the 2WD will feel better and get me a few tenths faster down the strip. which of course is true stock vs stock... take the power level i have now, id bet i gain a damn near second off my 1/4 time with the AWD anyone have, say, an AWD drivetrain they dont want...??? (come on think of the big smokey burnouts you guys with stockish power could do without that silly AWD )

^^^im with him, helper bags are hands down the way to go. that way you can set up the suspension a bit lower with no/very little air to say, as low as youd ever consider when not towing/hauling. that way, if you ever wish it was a bit higher or like it used to be, add some air and your back to that height. and obviously the advantage of load leveling with really ANY payload is a huge plus too. my SSS is dropped 3.5/4.5 and i tow over 13,000-15,000 lbs with it at least twice a week, with a payload/tongue of at least twice what its rated for. but what Norcal said is IDEAL, will not just feel more like a car without a harsh ride but will tow and haul worlds better

actually its not a resonator, its a muffler. there are 2 mufflers on our setup, one is just a round style. however they are straight through just with a fiberglass-like packing around them. for those that like the very loud exhaust and dont care if they have a drone (cough... flowmaster guys :lol ) we can make it with JUST the round muffler or JUST the oval muffler... but trust me in person its not quiet by any means, just no drone which is generally what ive found people are looking for in combination

just use the TBSS for the catch can and the oil cap breather, its exactly the same thing....

thanks, and yeah i really have no issues with mine. especially the 20% on the Vmax and JGP trucks, they are real easy to see out of

looks good. if you are a retarded 4th grade child who thought a TIG was an ice cream cone

honestly i dont care what you bring as long as you are there for the same reason everyone else is- to enjoy cars/trucks, not just GMs lol. i am definitely not one of those people who ignore Ford guys or what not at car shows. if we have the same interest then its all good with me so yeah, pretty much anything is fine if anyone has friends that want to go or are members here that dont drive SSS's. the more cars the better lets get a good idea of who wants to go and when a good time would be for everyone, and we can set it up for the first meet- hopefully to make this a regularly reoccurring event

damn talk about old threads lol... true duals are always great sound and performance wise, but theres nothing wrong with a single 3" system either, it isnt restrictive or anything. they both produce different sounds for different likings this shit is always gunna come down to opinions in the end. whats the fact of the matter, actual flow-wise? magnaflows are straight through, corsa is straight through, b&b is straight through. none of these mufflers will cause any HP or MPG losses, and all 3 produce a totally different sound. if you like them, then great you chose the ideal setup for a healthy breathing engine. if you dont, and you prefer flowmasters or other old fashioned chambered restrictive mufflers, then your truck will still drive and run- just with less TQ ;) this information is fact yet i know it will be debated as opinion until the day there are no more traditional combustion engines SO he likes magnaflow she likes flowmaster. is one "better"...? i guess thats for you to decide