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kelleyperformance

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Everything posted by kelleyperformance

  1. as much as id like to Xwhatever, i must rather ask WHY it is HIGHER than stock in front??? some Baja runs on weekends...?
  2. IMO with your setup youre nowhere near the power levels needing dual 3" exhaust, you will loose bottom end torque.
  3. well i think this is a good idea, and i wouldnt mind driving south either. but i am also happy to host our meets here at the shop; we can set up some dyno runs, BBQ, little car show, some free beer, etc etc. anyone interested? from what i always tried, it seemed there were no more than like 5 trucks in the entire south florida but the forums seemed to have expanded a bit as well over the past few years so maybe thats changed
  4. i think you can contact them for custom colors, dunno if/how much extra theyd charge...
  5. 295s will rub, and IMO are really too wide for a stock SSS wheel. the widest i would personally go on any customers car or mine with a stock wheel would be 275, maybe 285 if you dont mind the sidewall looking a bit 'fat'. you can easily run the 275/50 with no issues, as well as the stock 275/55 tires shouldnt rub either. the stock wheels have a pretty high offset so they arent really going to give any issues with your drop
  6. yes, they have to be twisted around a bit to a different angle but it is possible... you will need new banjo bolts from a corvette tho if you dont already have them, threads are different pitch our lines can be customized with different banjo fittings if you run PBR Z06 calipers though
  7. they sell the one way valve breather cap separately, just look through the site. i think they are like $30 you can use any of those vehicles.... they are all the exact same. yes the filler neck is slightly different, however the cap is IDENTICAL. they are a cap only, does not come with a neck you reuse yours. caps are all the same- i usually order under TBSS its damn near the exact same everything anyways.
  8. ah our prototype exhaust! this will be available as a bolt on cat-back within the next 2 months. it will support over 650 RWHP, has NO drone, is about half the weight of the stock system, and is truly a unique sound that is deep and will never be confused with anyone else. it is available dumped, dual out the back, dual out the rear corners, and dual/single side exit (like OEM). will be priced better than most any other cat-backs. keep your eyes (and ears ) open for the thread for first orders! -KP
  9. aside from the "y pipe" or mid pipes, which connect the headers to the 'cat-back'- the 5.3 truck and 6.0 truck use the same headers. and if your under 500 WHP i would use the same size headers for both 5.3/6.0- 1 3/4". if you buy just headers without mid pipes/cat pipes, most any exhaust shop can weld some connecting pipes from the headers to the rest of your exhaust, cats or no cats. most companies like dynatech offer bolt-on connecting pipes for cat back or stock exhausts, although i do not believe pacesetter offers bolt on mid pipes...
  10. that Russel number you have is the right number. you need the 4 wheel disc/5 line kit for your truck. the brakes on the SSS are the exact same as the standard 1500 silverado trucks 99-05.5. i just looked it up on Summit, says ship date today... that would mean they have them in stock. they still make them, maybe you looked up the wrong number or something?? if you still cant find them we sell our own S.S. brake lines for the trucks in any color braided stainless youd like. shoot me a PM if you have no luck. btw here is a link to Summit for the line kit http://www.summitrac...72430/overview/
  11. yeah, i guess whenever we get the wheels and drop on the JGP. we can just take them all up there. would also be nice if Amanda would send me the other pics from last week... so moody 305/40R22 btw i love your avitar. Bubbles lol
  12. glad at least one person read all of that those cans arent too bad, they work. those RX ones are just like the Cadillac of catch cans if there is such a thing
  13. got to love dark tint i have 15% on my windshield on the SSS, 0% on the rest. other vehicles 20% on the front 5% on the rest. its not too hard to get a medical exemption for the tint, we all have them at the shop looks good! IMO windshield tint just makes any car look more aggressive co-worker/buddys truck:
  14. you still should use a catch can... yes the PCV helps alot with boosted setups to reduce oil consumption and oil buildup in manifold but will not stop all of it. check out this site, they make the only true catch cans and vents i have ever installed. they work great. http://www.revxtreme.com/performance-parts/rx-catch-cans/rx-catch-can-single-check-valve IMO you should run the dual check valve can, so you always have evacuation at all times of crank case gases; also you wont need any PCV valves as it has built in check valves which work better than PCV valves anyways. id put one of their oil fill vents w/ valve on pass. side, dual valve can on driver side. that way you have the best setup possible and the most ideal situation for engine life and HP
  15. this topic has SO many different answers and opinions lol... proper engine breathing and PCV oil seperation is SO important for a healthy engine most people dont realize how critical it is! from ALLLL the catch cans ive ever sold, installed, seen, whatever... the RX / RevXtreme products are great. they have a built in check valve (helpful since most all our trucks have NO PCV valves or anything like that), plenty of space in can, come in GM colors, and are great quality. another thing about catch cans that is usually overlooked is the most important function of all- the ability to not just catch liquid oil under high load, but catch oil VAPOR and transform it into liquid so the can will catch it, keeping it from building up in the engine/manifold. many/most catch cans do NOT have provisions for vapor, they are just that- a CAN we install catch cans on EVERY LSx build no matter the power level or NA/FI. i have pics on my tuning laptop of a throttle plate off a 2012 LS3 corvette, 71 miles on the car bone stock... the entire back of the throttle plate and housing are dripping in oil. so do you need one for boost? YES. do you not need one if your NA or bolt ons....? NO you should still run one. here is the link to the site, and that link has the proper catch can for roots blowers and other applications where the throttle DOES NOT see boost. for turbos, most centrifugal blowers, you need the dual check valve catch cans in order to keep constant vaccuum on the crank case to properly evacuate the harmful vapors. so how should you set it up? for boosted applications: you should use a breather on the valve cover of one side, evacuate from the other side/cover. this way you push/pull fresh air through for proper evacuation. HOWEVER, the use of a standard filter on a valve cover can and will push excessive crank case pressure to push oil through it in most cases, making a mess and causing yet another non-ideal scenario for PCV. so- oil caps with built in filters are also sold by RX, and also come in GM colors. the reason to use theirs- they have built in check valves, so air only goes IN not out... in this way, you stay "emission friendly", PCV works properly, and no oil seepage/mess. you DONT want to just throw a filter on the cover or oil fill cap. then, use whichever of the two types of catch cans is for your setup on the driver side, run from the valve cover, to catch can, then into manifold for evacuation. this is your best way to setup a PCV IMO for NA setups: basically the same setup as stated above- except you really dont need the breather, you can keep the vent from the airbox to the pass. valve cover like OEM. for the driver side/evac. side, you can use the single check valve catch cans; simply cut the hose between the driver valve cover and manifold, install catch can. this way you get a device that not only catches and collects oil, but transforms most oil vapor into liquid keeping it from building up in manifold. keep in mind, its best to use nothing less diameter than 1/2" hose for the PCV system. 5/8" is usually ideal and more than enough. IMO 3/4" is totally unneccesarry unless you have a parachute on your trunk/tailgate i know that was alot of typing/rambling, hopefully someone finds it helpful lol. this is a largely misunderstood and talked about subject, just putting my .02 cents in LINK to catch can
  16. yeah the 9500ix is top dog IMO. we have used and sold them all here and that is by far the best, and you cant beat that all the Escorts are expandable with their ZR4 laser jamming systems either my "associate" has an 8500 X50 he would sell, K.P.VHO- i think he is going to PM you but if you want an 8500 this is prob a good bet for you
  17. yeah seriously DO NOT leave him a PM, email, or voicemail... it will be weeks (if at all) he calls you back he is like a damn call center in India its overwhelming lol. you have to call him at that number above, and if he doesnt answer try again later. he is usually pretty good about his phone just not checking tons of messages its worth the wait though, he is a great tuner and knows his shit better than most
  18. rear girdle, he would be referring to the rear differential cover... there are a few compaines that make some nice ones- TA Performance, GM Performance (for the AWD SSS only/10 bolt rear end), MagHytec, etc. bump stop is refering to the rubber "stoppers" that attatch to the frame rails on the truck and keep the rear axle housing from slamming into the bed/truck body... they are aftermarket bump stops in the pic. really only needed if the suspension is modified, lowered, etc.
  19. im looking for all the parts together... but thanks! let me know if you can work that out, i have a NIB SnowPerformance meth kit. reason i have it NIB- it was purchased by us for a customers Z06, but i never ended up installing it bc the car made OVER the desiered power level and ran great. i already have a kit on the SSS and dont need another one personally, so its just been sitting in my office. let me know John
  20. look you have the right idea and all, but like sinner said above... thats an AIR to AIR intercooler. i dont mean this sarcastically or trying to be a jerk, please dont misunderstand me- but if it worked better, then an air-to-water / "heat exchanger" would be designed exactly the same way as the air-to-air. the difference is NOT just in the inlet/outlet and sizes of them. theres prob a full page of reasons i could type to describe why an air-to-air would not be nearly as efficent in removing the heat from the water as even what comes with the Radix setup. bottom line, it will DECREASE cooling efficency, and i hate to say it but if that pump increases the flow rate, i think you just decreased your cooling abilities with that 'intercooler' even more. the water (well, what water actually MOVES through at least) will be moving at such inefficent paths and for such short time periods that the cooler will have no chance to remove much if any heat at all from the water. also, the fact that its a single pass core, and the huge depth and surface area of that thing being a single pass just will not work right. youd need a bilge pump for a 100' yatch just to keep even pressure moving through the cooler at an even rate. the best way to be sure of just how much efficency lost wouldve been to compare your IAT temps before and after to see what exactly happened... you will have your average charge temp while driving, your average charge temp/rate of increase WHILE in boost, and your charge temp immediately AFTER boost/recovery rate. those 3 things will usually always differ depending on setup, and some will be better here but worse there, etc. but IMHO with that setup, it will be worse on all 3. it was a good idea, it just goes against physics somewhat and just needs to be pointed in a slightly different direction. keep up the same thought process, just find you a nice dual pass air-water cooler/heat exchanger, use some 5/8" hoses, build a larger fluid resivour over on the rear pass. side of engine bay (where 2nd battery is found on duramax and my truck for example) and you should be seeing some improvement in cooling
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