SS_bnoon_SS

Guessing about $200-$250 because I only have a 5 mile ride to work and burn the cheaper E85. It will fluctuate greatly though with job demands.

I finally got to install this last Saturday. I'll be doing the smoked amber reflectors sometime soon, then I hope to move on to power mods. Later!!!

I'll come up right after your knee surgery. I figure I can outrun you pushing your engine stand then!

shiz, I just threw my stock one away last weekend... dang it...

So do you have a larger 100mm MAF then, or are you still running the stock MAF? The 100 can help you out if you don't have one yet...

I want to come up some weekend to see it. You're in MN, right?

E85, once tuned for, is like street legal race gas, with an octane rating of 100-110. It will allow more boost, more HP/TQ, and with the right combination mileage doesn't fall more than 5-10%. I just made the switch to E85 a few weeks ago and now that I've added some timing, my mileage has actually gone up!!! 18mpg the last 2 tanks vs a 15.7 average before the E85. Cory, if you want a core transmission to rebuild, I've got two rebuildables sitting in my back yard by the shed. You can have one for free if you want it.

...and the third lowest HP and second lowest TQ. Glad I didn't waste the money.

The big black round thing on the firewall in this pic (even though it's a pic of a newer silverado, the booster looks the same). Be sure to check the hose leading from it back to the intake too. It's a bitch to replace a booster if you've never done one...

Why run a thin mount when standard subs will fit under the seats? Are you trying to get one to fit in the center too or something?

Dang it, you're going to have to do it all over again with my home made intake to see where I rank. Sorry everyone, for making this entire thread a waste of your time. Let me know when you can do it again and I'll send it to you 12'sROCK!

A 1976 Chevette that had been merged into by a passing 18 wheeler. Grafted on a salvage yard quarter panel, swapped in a hot rodded 2.3 liter out of a Vega (Holley, Hooker, and Crane all made parts for that engine!), and gave it a custom dark gray metalic and dark blue metalic two tone paint job. Had an estimated 180-200 HP and ran high 13 to low 14 second quarter mile times. Pissed off all of the rich kids and their TPI vettes/camaros/TA's, that's for sure!!!

I've gone SD several times and never heard of anything like that, other than compression leaking off after any shutdown. Without an intake tube on there, you're going to hear just about everything the engine does. Nothing to worry about from what you've described.

I got my material from Discount Fabrics USA for $17.49 a yard, is that cheap? http://www.discountfabricsusacorp.com/suede.html It's the cheapest upholstery grade ultrasuede I could find, and it feels like really good quality stuff (backed material, stretches well). You just can't buy huge rolls from them in most colors since I think most of what they sell are remnants. I got 3 yards though, so good enough for me.

My wife and I happen to share the addiction to good sounding exhaust. I knew she was for me when she lost a race to an SLK Mercedes one time and she came home and told me about it, quickly followed by "My car needs mods, can we do exhaust?". Want me to have my wife call her?

Yup, the SES codes are: P0137 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0138 HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0140 HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0141 HO2S Heater Performance Bank 1 Sensor 2 and P0157 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2 P0158 HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2 P0160 HO2S Circuit Insufficient Activity Bank 2 Sensor 2 P0161 HO2S Heater Performance Bank 2 Sensor 2 All set to option 3 in HPT as "No Error Reported". Both bank sensor 1 settings are left at 1 as "MIL on Second Error. Otherwise you're not running any adaptive fueling by ignoring sensor 1 on either bank. The disabled bank would just fuel blind by MAF and VE guestimates only.

Just FYI, the way I came about those settings was because of a bad fuse holder. Fans stopped running and the truck started to get to hot (never overheated, but got over 215), but cooled down to 185-190 as soon as I could maintain 30-35 MPH. That was on a mid 90's temp day and I ran the AC as long as the truck was moving, but turned it off as soon as I came to a stop. Haven't messed with the settings since. Funny, I have a cargo button in my garage too, for a possible N2O arming switch.

You'll love the lines, HUGE pedal feel improvement, even with stock calipers, rotors, and pads.

Chris, do you cut the bolt on the outside of the frame and push it through towards the inside, or cut it from the inside and push the bolt out towards the outside? Did you just use a sawsall, or something else?

I'm running 30 on and 35 off speeds. Just jelous of your EFILive's pressure switch settings still... I'm not sure if my switch is going bad or what, but I have problems getting good AC cooling at low speeds, but only sometimes... I'm thinking of wiring in some LED's to the fans and the AC so that I can see when they are grounded, just so I can troublshoot it better.

I know a 2250SX fits, it's a little narrower, but I think you'd fit if you move the rear vent ducts for sure.

Bank 2 is not the rear sensors, Bank1 is right side, Bank 2 is left side. You want to set all "downstream" O2's, Bank 1 and Bank 2, to no error reported.